DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 4.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Green Island

Crocheted top in DROPS Paris. Piece is crocheted top down with lace pattern and vents in the side. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 230-46
DROPS design: Pattern w-864
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour no 43, forest green

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm.

CROCHET TENSION:
14 treble crochets in width and 8.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 4.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION:
Begin every treble crochet row with 3 chain stitches, they do not replace first treble crochet.

CHAIN STITCHES:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
At the beginning of row: Replace each treble crochet to decrease with 1 slip stitch.
At end of row: Do not work over stitches to be decreased.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck):
Decrease 2 treble crochets by working 3 treble crochets together as follows:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 4 loops on hook.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece back and forth in parts, bottom up and sewn together when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Work 56-60-66-74-83-90 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 5 mm with DROPS Paris.
Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 52-56-62-70-79-86 chain stitches – read CROCHET INFO = 53-57-63-71-80-87 treble crochets.
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochet, work A.1 until 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochets remain and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last treble crochets.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

When piece measures approx. 10 cm, adjust so that next row is 1st, 5th or 6th row, increase 3 treble crochets evenly = 56-60-66-74-83-90 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochet, work A.1 until 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochets remain and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last treble crochets.

When piece measures approx. 18 cm, adjust so that next row is 1st, 5th or 6th row, increase 3 treble crochets evenly = 59-63-69-77-86-93 treble crochets.
Work next row as follows: Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochet, work A.1 until 1-3-3-1-1-3 treble crochets remain and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last treble crochets.

Cut the yarn when piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm.
Now work over the middle 53-57-61-67-74-79 treble crochets (do not work over 3-3-4-5-6-7 treble crochets in each side for armholes).
Work next row as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 7-9-8-11-13-17 stitches, work A.1 until 7-9-8-11-13-17 stitches remain and finish with 1 treble crochet in each of the last stitches.

Then decrease for armholes in each side on every row as follows:
Decrease 3 treble crochets 1-1-1-2-2-3 times – read DECREASE TIP-1, 2 treble crochets 0-1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 treble crochet 2-1-2-2-2-1 time = 43-45-47-47-50-51 treble crochets.
Work until piece measures 31-33-34-36-37-38 cm, adjust so that last row is a row with treble crochets. Now work with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet.
When piece measures 39-41-42-44-45-47 cm, work shoulder over the first 10-11-12-11-12-12 treble crochets.
Work the 3 treble crochet closest to the neck together on next row – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 8-9-10-9-10-10 treble crochets.
Continue to work until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other shoulder the same way over the last 10-11-12-11-12-12 treble crochets.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece until piece measures 33-35-36-38-39-40 cm. Now work shoulder over the first 14-15-16-15-16-16 stitches as follows:
Work the 3 treble crochets closest to the neck together on next row. Decrease like this on every 2nd row 3 times in total = 8-9-10-9-10-10 treble crochets.
Work 1 treble in every treble crochet until piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Cut and fasten the yarn. Work the other shoulder the same way over the last 14-15-16-15-16-16 treble crochets.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams but leave approx. 9 cm for vents at the bottom in each side.

Diagram

symbols = chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet between 2 treble crochets
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = this row is not worked, it has already been worked and only shows how next row should be worked in stitches
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Birgitte Neerup Danielsen wrote:

Når jeg tager ind til ærmegab så bliver det hakkende og ikke en glidende kant. Hvad gør jeg forkert? Hilsen Birgitte

23.03.2024 - 11:55

country flag Amber wrote:

I'm lost at what to do with A.1. Is it worked next to each other in one row or is it worked up? I'm also lost at what 'double crochet around chain stitch' means?

16.03.2024 - 13:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amber, when working in the same row, you will work many repeats of the same row of A.1. Then, on the next rows you will work the chart upwards. You can read more information on our charts here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=19. Working around a stitch means that you don't insert the hook inside a stitch but rather in the space (for example, chain space formed). You can see the difference between working in and around stitches in the following video: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=690&lang=en. Happy crochetting!

17.03.2024 - 21:43

country flag Mary wrote:

In the diagram A1, I do not understand what to do where it says, \"treble crochet between 2 treble crochets\". Please could you explain. \r\nFrom the photo, it just looks like another row of trebles.\r\nThank you.

26.07.2023 - 19:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, yes, it's a row of trebles but the treble crochet is worked in the space between 2 treble crochets instead of inside the treble crochet. In the end, you will have the same amount of treble crochets at the end of the round. Happy crocheting!

27.07.2023 - 09:53

country flag Marjon Zwirs wrote:

Green Island heeft geen tel patroon . Tel patroon A1 mist bij beschrijving

12.07.2023 - 23:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjon,

Het telpatroon vind je rechts naast de maattekening.

13.07.2023 - 19:41

country flag Marie-Thérèse Vollemaere wrote:

Ik zie nergens aangeduid hoeveel ik nodig heb voor dit model ??

28.06.2023 - 18:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marie-Thérèse,

Bovenaan bij de materialen staat aan gegeven hoeveel gram je nodig hebt (1 bol weegt 50 gram). De reeks getallen slaan op de maten, dus het eerste getal geldt voor maat S, het tweede getal voor maat M, enzovoorts.

29.06.2023 - 07:09

country flag Anitta wrote:

Hvorfor bliver min kant næsten rund, er det fordi at når jeg starter at lm bliver for stram

15.06.2023 - 17:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anitta, hvilken kant, hvor langt er du kommet i opskriften?

16.06.2023 - 13:43

country flag Anitta wrote:

Hej Er det muligt at hækle rundt, i stedet for at hækle for og bagstykke hver for sig

11.06.2023 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anitta. Det går sikkert helt fint, men du må tilpasse oppskriften. Starten på både forstykket og bakstykket hekles frem og tilbake pga splitten og når du da skal hekle rundt må du passe på at mønstret stemmer overens med maskeantallet. F.eks skal du ha staver i siden eller hekle A.1 rundt hele omgangen. mvh DROPS Design

12.06.2023 - 13:19

country flag Kmg wrote:

I’m not understanding “work one dc in each of the first 1-3-3-1-1-3 double crochet😔\r\nI’ve got my first row of dc completed and chained 3…

29.03.2023 - 07:14

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kmg, each number refers to the size, ie in first size as well as in the 4th and 5th size, work 1 dc in the first dc, in the 2nd and 3rd as well as in the 6th size, work 1 dc in each of the first 3 dc. Happy crocheting!

29.03.2023 - 10:29

country flag Raluca wrote:

Hello! I really don't understand the treble crochet around the chain stich part Which chain is it referring to? I understand what crocheting around means, but what am I supposed to do at A.1

13.03.2023 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Raluca, on 3rd row in A.1 you worked *skip 1 treble crochet, in the next treble crochet work: (1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet), skip 1 treble crochet*, repeat from *-* - on next round work 3 treble crochets around each chain stitch, this means work these treble crochets in the 1-chain-space on row below. Happy crocheting!

14.03.2023 - 09:39

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas la deuxième partie de la phrase " Commencer chaque rang de brides par 3 mailles en l’air, elles ne remplacent pas la 1ère bride." Comment prendre en compte ces 3 mailles en l'air ? Exemple : pour la troisième taille du modèle : 3 mailles en l'air - 3 brides - motif A1 - 3 brides ? Si oui ça ne tombe pas juste au 4 ème rang du motif... Merci d'avance

12.03.2023 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie, ces 3 mailles en l'air se font simplement en plus, en début de rang pour avoir la bonne hauteur, mais comme on ne les compte pas, vous aurez simplement ensuite à crocheter comme indiqué: 3 brides, répétez A.1 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 brides (19 fois au total), et terminez par 3 brides vous avez bien: 3+ (19x3) + 3 = 63 mailles. Bon crochet!

13.03.2023 - 09:48