DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Frosted Daisies

Crocheted top / t-shirt in DROPS Belle. Piece is crocheted top down with raglan, lace pattern and bobbles. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 231-38
DROPS design: Pattern vs-086
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-500-550 g colour 01, white

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 8 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
On every round beginning with treble crochets replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches, finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.
On every round beginning with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch and finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
When working pattern (i.e. treble crochets and chain stitches) work as follows:
When round begins with 1 treble crochet, replace first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches, and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.
When round begins with 1 chain stitch, replace last treble crochet with 3 chain stitches as follows:
Work 3 chain stitches (replace last treble crochet), 1 chain stitch (first chain stitch in pattern), skip last treble crochet and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch, work 1 double crochet around first chain stitch (this is done to avoid the round from displacing).

LACE PATTERN:
Work pattern where the diagram do not fit over raglan line and under sleeve as follows:
ROUND 1: Work * 1 treble crochet around next chain stitch, 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 treble crochet, 1 treble crochet around next chain stitch *, work from *-*.
Adjust which round to begin on according to pattern in diagram.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase in stitch in each side as follows:
Make sure that round before is a round where stitch mid under sleeve was worked as 1 chain stitch. Around this chain stitch work 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch and 1 treble crochet around same chain stitch (1 chain space increased). Increase like this in each side (2 chain spaces increased in total).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round top down. Divide yoke for body and sleeve edges and continue each part separately.

YOKE:
Work 84-86-90-92-96-102 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 4.5 mm with DROPS Belle and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked. Then work pattern as follows:

Work 1 round with 1 treble crochet in every stitch and increase 4-2-18-16-12-26 treble crochet evenly = 88-88-108-108-108-128 treble crochets.
Work pattern as follows:

Work A.1, * A.2 3-3-4-4-4-5 times in total, A.3, A.4, A.5 *, A.6, work from *-* 2 times in total and finish with A.7.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!

When A.1, A.4, A.6 and A.7 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 188-188-208-208-208-228 stitches on last round (bobbles are counted as 1 stitch).
Then work pattern as follows:

SIZE S-M-L:
Work A.1a, * A.2a 4-4-5 times in total, A.3a, A.8a, A.4a, A.9a, A.5a, A.10a *, A.6a, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with A.7a.
Work 5-8-8 rounds with pattern.

SIZE L/XL - XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work A.1a, * A.2a 5-5-6 times in total, A.3a, A.8a, A.4a, A.9a, A.5a, A.10a *, A.6a, work from *-* 1 more time and finish with A.7a.
Work 11-14-14 rounds with pattern.
Every time A.1a, A.4a, A.6a and A.7a are repeated vertically work 1 repetition more of A.2a and A.8a in width on front piece/back piece and 1 repetition more of A.9a and A.10a in width on each sleeve.

ALL SIZES:
Work next round in pattern but now replace bobbles in raglan line (i.e. the first 2 bobble in A.1a and in the middle of A.4a and A.6a) with treble crochets (i.e. 1 bobble = 1 treble crochet) = 236-260-280-304-328-348 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 23-26-26-30-34-34 cm.
Work pattern as before, but over A.1a, A.4, A.6 and A.7 work LACE PATTERN – read explanation above and read CROCHET INFO = 232-256-276-300-324-344 stitches.
Continue pattern like this. Work lace pattern where the pattern does not fit and lace pattern and bobble according to diagram as before over stitches on back piece/front piece and sleeves.
When piece measures 26-28-29-31-33-35 cm, fasten off. Now divide piece for body and sleeve edges as follows:
Begin by counting from the middle stitch on back piece (i.e. in the middle of 2 raglan lines), count 32-35-38-42-47-51 stitches towards beginning of round, next round begins in/around next stitch.
Work 1 double crochet in/around next stitch, 3 chain stitches (replace first or last treble crochet), work pattern as before over the next 64-70-76-84-94-102 stitches, replace the bobble that do not fit a whole flower with 1 treble crochet, skip the next 51-57-61-65-67-69 stitches for sleeve, work 9 chain stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the next 65-71-77-85-95-103 stitches, skip the next 51-57-61-65-67-69 stitches for sleeve and work 9 chain stitches under sleeve and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of round.

BODY:
= 148-160-172-188-208-224 stitches. Work pattern in the round as before, work pattern (i.e. 1 treble crochet, 1 chain stitch) over stitches worked under sleeve. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch under each of sleeve.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 chain space in each side of piece – read INCREASE TIP!
Increase like this every 4 cm 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total = 160-172-184-204-224-240 stitches.
Continue the pattern as before, work the increased stitches in pattern as the remaining stitches that do not fit the diagram. When piece measures approx. 19-19-20-20-20-20 cm from division, finish nicely according to pattern, work 1 round with 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet, 1 treble crochet around every chain stitch, and 1 treble crochet in each bobble (if there are any).
Cut and fasten the yarn.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Now work over 51-57-61-65-67-69 stitches skipped for sleeve edges in one side as follows. Work 1 double crochet in 5th chain stitch worked under sleeve, work 3 chain stitches (replace first treble crochet), 1 treble crochet in every treble crochet and 1 treble crochet around every chain stitch = 60-66-70-74-76-78 treble crochets. Cut and fasten the yarn.
Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Work 1 double crochet in stitch mid back, work 1 chain stitch (replace first double crochet), work 1 double crochet in every stitch around the neck and finish round with 1 slip stitch in chain stitch at the beginning of round.

Diagram

symbols = treble crochet in stitch below
symbols = treble crochet around chain stitch
symbols = chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 treble crochet is wide.
symbols = this round has already been worked, it only shows how next row should be worked in stitch on previous row
symbols = Bobble: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 7 loops on hook.
symbols = bobble at the beginning of round: Work 3 chain stitches, make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 6 loops on hook.
symbols = slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round
symbols = double crochet around chain space (does not count as a stitch when number of stitches is given in pattern)
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (20)

country flag Jesse wrote:

This pattern is awful, even writing down and drawing out what every row should look like, adding up the stitches to match the total, i still can't get it to work. I have no idea where there are supposed to be increases, and from the diagrams its difficult to tell what stitches go in what stitches in the row below. I've given up.

17.11.2023 - 05:47

country flag Betty wrote:

Ik heb het patroon in maat L geprobeerd te haken maar op een gegeven mlment staat er voor maat L twee verschillende patroonbeschrijvingen. Als ik de eerste kies, kom ik niet uit met de benodigde steken. Hoe moet ik het patroon volgen? Klopt het patroon wel? Er zit geen fout in?

07.10.2023 - 14:20

country flag Monica Bjurling wrote:

Hej! Jag kan inte fatta. vad jag gör för fel. Hur jag än räknar, så blir det fel, när jag ska virka första mönstervarvet. De 88 maskorna i stl S räcker inte till. Kan ni hjälpa mig, att förstå?

30.07.2023 - 13:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica, Virka A.1 (= 1m), * A.2 totalt 3gånger (= 30m), A.3 (= 3m), A.4 (= 1m), A.5 (= 9m) *, A.6 (1 m), virka *-* totalt 2 gånger och avsluta med A.7 som är en smygmaska (räknas inte som m). Det vill säga: 1m + 43 + 1 + 43 + smygmaskan = 88 m

07.08.2023 - 11:07

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Hallo, ich habe schon viel gehäkelt, aber das verstehe ich nicht. Unter dem 1. Kommentar wird erklärt wie es gehen soll. Die Rechung geht nicht auf, weil dort129 Maschen erklärt werden und den Rest verstehe ich gar nicht. Vielleicht kann mir einer Mal erklären wie es denn nach der Zunahme jetzt richtig geht. Die Größe ist XXL. Danke, ansonsten gebe ich auf.

20.06.2023 - 21:07

country flag Jannie wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maskeantal til at passe i str. xxxl. Jeg har hæklet stangmaskerækken, og har 128 masker. Så har jeg hæklet A.1 en gang, A.2 5 gange, A.3 en gang, A.4 en gang, A.5 en gang, A.6 en gang, A.2 5 gange, A.3 en gang, A.4 en gang, og nu har jeg kun 3 masker tilbage på omgangen, men mangler at hækle A.5 og A.7 en gang. Hvad gør jeg forkert?

11.04.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jannie. Du har 128 masker, så hekler du A.1 (over 1 maske) + A.2 5 ganger (over 50 masker) + A.3 (over 3 masker) + A.4 (over 1 maske) + A.5 (over 9 masker) + A.6 (over 1 maske) + A.2 5 ganger (over 50 masker) + A.3 (over 3 masker) + A.4 (over 1 maske) + A.5 (over 9 masker) + A.7 (over 0 masker/blir en luftmaske og 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmasken på begynnelsen av omgangen) = 1+50+3+1+9+1+50+3+1+9+0= 128 masker. mvh DROPS Design

17.04.2023 - 13:44

country flag Victoria wrote:

So you do an entire round of A1 and then 4 rounds of A2? It's not clear what is meant by doing these, do you do A1 and A2 four times in the same round?

16.03.2023 - 20:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Victoria, no you have to work 1st row all diagrams then 2nd row and so on, in this lesson we explain how to work several diagrams consecutively, it should help you. Happy crocheting!

17.03.2023 - 08:44

country flag Victoria wrote:

This pattern is so confusing.. after the first round of double crochets I'm not sure if I repeat A2 4 times or if I repeat A2, A4, A5 etc 2 times

16.03.2023 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Victoria, in 3rd, 4th and 5th size, work as follows: crochet A.1 one time (first raglan line), then *crochet A.2 a total of 4 times in width, then crochet A.3 one time, crochet A.4 one time (2nd raglan line), crochet A.5 one time*, crochet A.6 (3rd raglan line) one time, then work now from *-* one more time (A.4 will be the 4th raglan line) and finish the round with A.7 (joining to the first raglan line). Happy crocheting!

16.03.2023 - 15:53

country flag Prunelle40 wrote:

Bonjour, "En commençant à partir de la maille au milieu dos, compter 42 mailles vers le début du tour, le tour suivant commence dans/autour de la maille suivante" : je ne comprends pas exactement ce qu'il faut faire. "je compte 42 m.", cela veut dire "je passe 42 m sans les crocheter" ? Que veut dire "le tour suivant commence autour de la maille suivante" ? Merci de votre aide.

05.12.2022 - 13:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Prunelle40, vous allez commencer ce tour 42 m avant le milieu du dos, et plus là où vous commenciez les tours auparavant. Notez la maille centrale, comptez 42 m vers la droite (avant cette maille), joignez le fil avec 1 maille serrée dans/autour de la maille suivante, 3 ml et crochetez les 84 m suivantes comme avant. Bon crochet!

06.12.2022 - 10:27

country flag Prunelle40 wrote:

Bonsoir, et merci pour votre aide ! J'ai atteint le niveau de l'empiècement avec les A8, A9 et A10. Par contre, le motif fait 10 tours donc en quoi consiste le 11ème tour (taille L-XL) ? Dois-je recommencer un rang 1 ? Mais cela n'irait pas puisqu'on me dit de continuer en point ajouré ! Merci

30.11.2022 - 23:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Prunelle40, lorsque vous avez terminé les 10 rangs de A.9 et A.10, reprenez-les au 1er rang (comme pour les autres diagrammes) pour continuer les motifs et les nopes. Bon crochet!

01.12.2022 - 11:20

country flag Prunelle40 wrote:

Bonjour, sur votre site (pour un ouvrage de même construction), j'ai trouvé l'enchaînement des diagrammes. J'ai un peu bataillé donc pour celles qui se lanceront dans l'aventure, voici la suite (taille L-XL) : A1 - A2 (4 fois) - A3 - A4 - A5 - A6 - A2 (4 fois) - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7. Et là, tout se met bien en place ! Bonne journée, have a good day !

25.11.2022 - 12:05