DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lost in Summer Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. The piece is worked top down with raglan, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-50
DROPS Design: Pattern r-797
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 18, white

DROPS BUTTONS NO 541: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1d and A.1e). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 3 cm. Then work the other 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 115-121-125-129-133-137 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Muskat. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib back and forth for 3 cm.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 13-7-3-16-12-8 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase on the bands) = 128-128-128-145-145-145 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (the bands are knitted).
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Insert 4 marker threads without working the stitches and each thread is inserted between 2 stitches:
Count 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches (front piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 25 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 34-34-34-43-43-43 stitches (back piece), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch, count 25 stitches (sleeve), insert 1 marker thread before the next stitch. There are 22-22-22-26-26-26 stitches left (front piece). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
You now work pattern and increase to raglan. Read PATTERN and RAGLAN before continuing!

PATTERN:
Work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1d, A.1c, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1a, work A.1b 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, A.1c, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1a, A.1e, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE: The 4 marker threads sit between 2 stocking stitches.

RAGLAN:
AT THE SAME TIME on each row from the right side increase 8 stitches to raglan. Increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of the 2 stocking stitches in each transition between body and sleeves. On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the stitches into A.1a /A.1c and A.2 as shown in the diagrams.
Increase to raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 23-26-30-32-37-41 times = 312-336-368-401-441-473 stitches.

Continue the pattern without further increases until the yoke measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker on the neck – adjust so the next row is from the wrong side.
Divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 48-52-56-60-67-73 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 65-69-77-85-91-95 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work 86-94-102-111-125-137 stitches (back piece), place the next 65-69-77-85-91-95 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work 48-52-56-60-67-73 stitches (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 194-210-226-247-275-299 stitches. Work stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, but over the 2 stitches from each row of holes on the yoke, work A.3; you are cabling stitches every 4th row creating lines on the body under each row of holes.
Continue like this for 22 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 63-69-73-80-88-96 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase on the bands) = 257-279-299-327-363-395 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off a little loosely.
The jacket measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 65-69-77-85-91-95 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 71-75-83-93-99-103 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread, knit 3-3-3-4-4-4, work A.2 over the stitches from the yoke and finish with knit 3-3-3-4-4-4. When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-2 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-4-4-3-2½-2 cm a total of 2-2-2-3-3-3 times = 67-71-79-87-93-97 stitches. When the sleeve measures 15-13-12-10-9-7 cm, knit together the 2 stitches in each row of holes and knit together the first and last stitch on the round (= 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches decreased) = 58-62-72-76-82-86 stitches.
Knit over knit and purl over purl; in sizes S and XXL purl the single stitch under the sleeve and knit this stitch in sizes M, L, XL and XXXL.
Work until the sleeve measures 19-17-16-14-13-11 cm.
On the next round, in sizes M, L and XXXL, purl 2 together on each side of the stitch mid-under the sleeve = 58-60-70-76-82-84 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1), making sure the rib matches with the stitches above. Work until the sleeve measures 23-21-20-18-17-15 cm. Cast off a little loosely.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Vien Tran wrote:

I am working on the body of the cardigan but I don\'t understand the meaning of \"over the 2 stitches from each row of holes on the yoke, work A.3; you are cabling stitches every 4th row creating lines on the body under each row of holes.\". Could you explain more on how to do it? \r\nThank you

26.11.2023 - 04:02

country flag Alisa wrote:

Maybe I don\'t understand something, but the describtion seems to be wrong. It says that after increase I\'m supposed to have 336 stitches (size M). Then I should divide them 52 + 69 + 6 + 94 + 69 + 6 + 52. But it\'s 348 stitches????

17.08.2023 - 20:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alisa, the 6 sts x 2 are to cast on, they are not on needle including in the 336 sts but coming extra, see description of a top down jumper from picture 9 in this lesson. Happy knitting!

18.08.2023 - 08:46

country flag Alisa wrote:

Hi, what happened with website? Diagrams don't load.

11.08.2023 - 21:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alisa, this might have been a temporary bug since all diagrams can be now visible. Happy knitting!

14.08.2023 - 08:46

country flag Sabine wrote:

Hallo, ich habe leider dasselbe Problem wie Pam vor mir. Ich habe 16 Reihen im Muster gestrickt. Nun gibt es das Problem, dass zur nächsten Reihe, erneut Reihe 1, keine Kontinuität besteht. Reihe 1 hat auf einmal zwei linke Maschen am Rand. Das funktioniert so aber praktisch nicht. Viele Grüße, Sabine

09.07.2023 - 12:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, das Muster sollen Sie wie zuvor eweitern, dh die nächste 2 Zunahmen stricken Sie links (so haben Sie 3 Links, 1 rechts, 3 Links), die nächste 2 Zunahmen stricken Sie rechts (für das Lochmuster), die nächsten 3 links, die nächste rechts, die nächste 3 links usw so wird das Muster so erweitern. Viel Spâß beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 09:47

country flag Marieke wrote:

Ik heb zojuist de steken voor de mouwen op de hulpdraad gezet. Ik brei maat L. Klopt het dat de de twee tricot steken met daar tussen de markeerdraad beide bij t voorpand horen inclusief nog 3 steken na de twee tricot steken? Voor mij gevoel zou je de splitsing maken tussen de twee tricot steken? Alvast bedankt voor t antwoord.

11.04.2023 - 22:00

country flag Pam wrote:

I'm sorry but your response is not helpful. The sides of the pattern do not seem to repeat. For example, in A2 row 17 does not look like row 1 or row 8 at the edges. Is it true that I have to build my own diagrams for 48 rows, or am I not seeing the repeat? I may have to abandon this sweater. Pam

18.01.2023 - 00:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pam, you just have to enlarge the pattern as it was worked before, ie after the last increase in A.2 there is P1 on each side, ie you need now to *purl the next 2 increases, then K1, then P3, then K2 (for the lace pattern), then P3, K1 and continue again from * until all increases are done, and the pattern will continue with nice stripes as the middle stitches. Happy knitting!

18.01.2023 - 09:43

country flag Pam wrote:

Hi. I can't believe I'm the only one who ask to ask this but the diagrams only go up to row 16 of the yoke whereas there are (for XL) 64 rows of increases. Are we supposed to figure out the rest of the diagrams as it doesn't seem evident to me how that should be done. I am building an excel sheet but it's going to take quite the effort - am I missing something obvious? Thanks so much for the help. I love Drops designs and yarn. Pam

17.01.2023 - 00:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Pat, you just continue to increase as said for your size and at the same time work the new stitches so that the pattern will grow on each side and continue as before. Happy knitting!

17.01.2023 - 10:20

country flag Véronique wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote la taille l. Lorsque j'entame le point fantaisie, je n'arrive pas au nombre de mailles. Je suis des diagrammes et ça ne tombe pas juste. Merci de votre aide.

15.10.2022 - 19:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, en taille L, tricotez les 128 mailles ainsi: 5 m point mousse, A.1d (= 8m), A.1c (= 8 m), 2 m jersey (raglan), A.2 (=23 m), 2 m jersey (raglan), A.1a (=6 m), 2 fois A.1b (= 2x9= 18 m), A.1c (= 8 m), 2 m jersey (raglan), A.2 (23 m), 2 m jersey (raglan), A.1a (= 6 m), A.1e (10m), 5 m point mousse = 5+8+8+2+23+2+6+18+8+2+23+2+6+10+5=128 mailles. Suivez bien les bons diagrammes A.1d et A.1e pour la taille L. Bon tricot!

17.10.2022 - 09:31

country flag Solveig wrote:

Strikker str L og får ikke raglanøkingen til å stemme. I starten 22 m til forstykke og 30 m økning gir 52, men når det skal deles til bol og ermer skal str L ha 56 masker til forstykke? Og i starten 25 masker til erme +30×2 masker økning skulle gi 85 m, men skulle være 77 masker i følge oppskriften. Bakstykke 34 masker + 2x30 masker økt = 94 masker men skal i følge oppskriften være 102?? Er det noe galt eller misforstår jeg noe?

08.10.2022 - 18:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Solveig. Ingen feil eller misforståelse, du har økt riktig. På denne modellen vil man ved deligen "ta" litt av ermaskene til bolen og så lenge det blir symmetrisk (på begge sider) kan dette gjøres. mvh DROPS Design

17.10.2022 - 09:29

country flag Lisbeth Østerlund wrote:

Jeg strikker i str. 3X. Jeg kan ikke få 41 udtagninger til at passe med maskeantallet før og efter maskeantallet Er det en fejl eller er der noget jeg ikke har set?

10.08.2022 - 09:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbeth, du har 145 masker, tager 8 masker ud 41 gange = 328. Det bliver ialt 473 masker. God fornøjelse!

11.08.2022 - 09:27