DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Race the Wind Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Muskat. Piece is knitted bottom up with raglan, lace pattern and short sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 232-17
DROPS design: Pattern r-794
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 82, silver orchid

DROPS BUTTON NO 521: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.50 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 10, 18, 26, 35 and 44 cm
M: 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm
L: 10, 19, 28, 38 and 48 cm
XL: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm
XXL: 10, 18, 26, 34, 43 and 52 cm
XXXL: 10, 18, 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm

RAGLAN:
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch before marker thread as follows:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit next stitch, marker thread.
Decrease 1 stitch after marker thread as follows: Marker thread, knit 1, slip next stitch knitwise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over stitch worked. Decrease 4 stitches on every other row (1 stitch on each front piece and 2 stitches on back piece). Decreases on sleeves are in addition to these.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body back and forth from mid front on circular, from the bottom and up to armholes. Then work sleeves back and forth on circular needle up to armholes. Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body. Work yoke and neck edge back and forth from mid front. Do not sew the sleeve edge together, i.e. there is a vent under each sleeve.

BODY:
Cast on 277-291-319-347-389-417 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Muskat. Work as follows - from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 19-20-22-24-27-29 times, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (so that pattern begins and ends the same), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked, there are 201-211-231-251-281-301 stitches on needle. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 7-1-1-1-7-3 stitches evenly = 194-210-230-250-274-298 stitches. Insert 2 marker threads in the piece; 51-55-60-65-71-77 stitches in from each side (= 92-100-110-120-132-144 stitches on back piece). Continue in stocking stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Work until piece measures 27-26-25-24-23-23 cm.

Work next row from wrong side as follows: Work the first 47-51-56-61-67-73 stitches (= left front piece), cast off 8 stitches for armhole, work the next 84-92-102-112-124-136 stitches (= back piece), cast off 8 stitches for armhole, work the remaining 47-51-56-61-67-73 stitches (= right front piece). Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves back and forth on needle. Cast on 159-171-183-195-207-219 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work as follows - from right side: 1 stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 13-14-15-16-17-18 times, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. Work last row in A.2 as follows – from wrong side (there are now 81-87-93-99-105-111 stitches on needle): Cast off the first 8 stitches on needle, work until 8 remain, cast off these stitches = 65-71-77-83-89-95 stitches. Cut the yarn.
Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 308-336-368-400-436-472 stitches. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece. Insert marker threads 1 stitch in on front pieces and back piece.
Work in stocking stitch and garter stitch over stitches from body as before. Work stitches on sleeves as follows: A.3, work A.4 6-7-8-9-10-11 times, work A.5.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease for RAGLAN - read explanation above. The decrease on body and sleeves are uneven. On sleeves decreases are shown in A.3 and A.5. Every time A.3 and A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 2 repetitions less of A.4. On front pieces and back piece decrease for raglan as explained above on every other row (= every row from right side) 24-28-32-36-40-44 times in total. After all decreases are done, 140-140-144-148-156-164 stitches remain on needle.
Piece measures approx. 17-20-23-26-29-31 cm from where body and sleeves were put together. Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 12-8-4-4-4-8 stitches evenly = 128-132-140-144-152-156 stitches. Then work neck edge as explained below.

NECK EDGE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib as follows – from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, purl 2, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons on to left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.03.2023
Correction diagram A.3.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Kristina Lindelöf wrote:

Jag förstår inte svaret. Med markören 1 maska in, så blir det 2 maskor mellan minskningarna om man följer resten av instruktionerna och på bilderna ser det ut som bara 1 maska mellan minskningarna. Menar du att man ska sticka ärmmönstret sista/första maskan på fram/bakstyckena? Jag försökte, men det stämde inte med ärmarna. En sak till: det finns flera fel i A3: det saknas 1 omslag sist på mönsterrad 1 och 5. Och i början på näst sista raden är där en maska för mycket.

09.08.2022 - 10:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej igen, vi skal få design til at se på diagram A.3 igen, tak for info! Når du har sat markøren med det antal masker imellem som vi skriver i mønsteret, så strikkes mønsteret over det antal ærmemasker som er imellem markørerne. Du har 1 rätm på varje sida av markören (2 rätm i raglanlinjen) Gör såhär: RAGLAN Sticka tills det återstår 3 maskor före markören, sticka 2 maskor räta tillsammans, sticka nästa maska rät, markör. Minska 1 maska efter markören så här: Markör, sticka 1 rätmaska, lyft nästa maska av stickan, sticka 1 rätmaska, drag den lyfta maskan över maskan som stickades.

09.08.2022 - 10:56

country flag Kristina Lindelöf wrote:

Raglan: Var ska man sätta markören? En maska in, står det, men jag får inte ihop det. Vad betyder "en maska in"? Om det menas mellanrummet mellan maska 1 o 2, så stämmer det inte med instruktionerna för raglan. Dessa stämmer däremot med att sätta markören i mellanrummet mellan ärm och fram/bakstycke. Annars saknas 1 rm efter eller före markören i instruktionerna, verkar det som. Eller hur ska det egentligen vara?

30.07.2022 - 08:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kristina, det betyder at du laver selve raglanovergangen på hver side mærket som sidder 1 maske indenfor forstykket i hver side, det vil sige at første og sidste maske kommer til at høre til ærmerne. God fornøjelse!

04.08.2022 - 07:43

country flag Sonja wrote:

Iman

05.02.2022 - 06:45

country flag Linda wrote:

Midsummer Day

18.01.2022 - 14:37

country flag Ater wrote:

Lavender lace

17.01.2022 - 19:56

country flag Jildou wrote:

A field of lavender

15.01.2022 - 22:03