DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Chamomile Tea Top

Knitted jumper with short sleeves / t-shirt in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with short puffed sleeves and picot edges. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 231-22
DROPS design: Pattern bs-171
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 2110, light yellow.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

CAST-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
Knit 1 twisted, * insert right needle between the first 2 stitches on left needle (i.e. between stitches on needle, not through stitches), make 1 yarn over on right needle, pull yarn over forward between the stitches and slip yarn over on to left needle *, work from *-* 2 times in total (= 2 new stitches on left needle), knit and cast off at the same time off 5 stitches (= 1st stitch on right needle + 2 yarn overs+ 2 stitches). Continue to work from *-* and cast off 5 stitches the same way along the entire cast-off edge until there are no stitches left to make a new picot. Cast off the remaining stitches, cut the yarn and pull yarn through the remaining stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front piece back and forth on circular needle, top down, separately until armholes are done. Then work body in the round on circular needle. Sleeve cap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work the rest of the sleeve in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Sew the piece together as explained in pattern. Finish with a neck edge.

BACK PIECE:
Begin with right shoulder. Then work left shoulder, before slipping stitches together and work the back piece.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 24-25-26-27-27-28 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH in each side - read explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 2 cm, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from wrong side (towards the neck) as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2 times, 2 stitches 1 time = 28-29-30-31-31-32 stitches. At the end of next row from wrong side cast on 30-30-32-32-36-36 new stitches (mid at the back of neck) = 58-59-62-63-67-68 stitches. Cut the yarn, put piece aside and work the left shoulder at the back.

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 24-25-26-27-27-28 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 2 cm, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from right side (towards the neck) as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2 times, 2 stitches 1 time = 28-29-30-31-31-32 stitches.
Work from wrong side after last increase. Now slip left and right shoulder together for back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Begin from right side, knit over stitches from left shoulder, and knit over stitches from right shoulder = 86-88-92-94-98-100 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 11-9-8-8-12-10 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder, increase for armhole in each side as explained under.
Insert 1 marker inside the 4 outermost stitches in each side. Move markers upwards when working - markers should always be inside the 4 outermost stitches in each side.
Work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, work in stocking stitch until 2 stitches remain before marker, work A.2, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this, and increase the same way as shown in diagrams until 5-8-9-9-14-17 increases have been done in total in each side = 96-104-110-112-126-134 stitches.
After last increase work 3-3-3-3-1-1 rows in stocking stitch without increases. Then work in stocking stitch AT THE SAME TIME as casting on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 2 stitches 1-1-1-3-3-4 times and then 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder. Put piece aside, and work front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin with left shoulder. Then work right shoulder, before slipping stitches together and work the front piece.

LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 24-25-26-27-27-28 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from wrong side (towards the neck) as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4 times, 2 stitches 2 times and 3 stitches 1 time = 35-36-37-38-38-39 stitches. At the end of next row from wrong side cast on 16-16-18-18-22-22 new stitches (mid front) = 51-52-55-56-60-61 stitches. Cut the yarn, put piece aside and work the right shoulder at the front.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Cast on 24-25-26-27-27-28 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 4-4-5-5-6-6 cm, cast on new stitches at the end of every row from right side (towards the neck) as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4 times, 2 stitches 2 times and 3 stitches 1 time = 35-36-37-38-38-39 stitches.
Work from wrong side after last increase. Now slip right and left shoulder together for front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Begin from right side, knit over stitches from right shoulder, then knit over stitches from left shoulder = 86-88-92-94-98-100 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 11-9-8-8-12-10 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder, increase for armholes in the each side the same way as on back piece.
I.e. insert 1 marker inside the 4 outermost stitches in each side. Move markers upwards when working.
Work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, work in stocking stitch until 2 stitches remain before marker, work A.2, 3 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this, and increase the same way until 5-8-9-9-14-17 increases have been done in total in each side = 96-104-110-112-126-134 stitches.
After last increase work 3-3-3-3-1-1 rows in stocking stitch without increases. Then work in stocking stitch AT THE SAME TIME as casting on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 2 stitches 1-1-1-3-3-4 times and then 3-4-5-6-7-8 stitches 1 time = 106-116-124-136-152-166 stitches. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder. Then work body as explained below.

BODY:
Slip stitches on front piece and back piece on to same circular needle size 3 mm = 212-232-248-272-304-332 stitches. Remove the markers from the armholes. Insert 1 marker in each side on body (between front piece and back piece). Now measure piece from these markers.
Begin round at one marker, and work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm from markers, insert 4 marker threads in piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working - marker threads should be used for decrease for waist.
Count 30-34-37-42-48-54 stitches from the side, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 60-68-74-84-96-108 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch, count 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches, insert 1 marker thread before next stitch. 30-34-37-42-48-54 stitches remain on round after last marker thread.
Work as follows: 30-34-37-42-48-54 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3, work in stocking stitch until 4 stitches remain before next marker thread, work A.4, 60-68-74-84-96-108 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3, work in stocking stitch until 4 stitches remain before next marker thread, work A.4, and 30-34-37-42-48-54 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue pattern like this until A.3 and A.4 have been worked 2½ times vertically (5 decreases have been done vertically and cable has been worked 10 times vertically).
After last decrease there are 192-212-228-252-284-312 stitches on needle.
Work in stocking stitch over all stitches until piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm from markers inserted.
Knit 1 round while increasing 58-64-68-76-86-94 stitches evenly = 250-276-296-328-370-406 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 twisted/purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with PICOT - read explanation above.
Piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 30-32-34-36-38-40 stitches on short circular needle size 3 mm with DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 stitches in stocking stitch, work 1 stitch in front and back loop of the next 20-22-24-26-28-30 stitches (= 20-22-24-26-28-30 stitches increased), 5 stitches in stocking stitch = 50-54-58-62-66-70 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth and cast on new stitches for sleeve cap at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3-3-3-4-4-4 times, 1 stitch 5-7-9-9-10-14 times, 2 stitches 4-4-4-4-5-4 times and 3 stitches 1 time in each side = 100-108-116-124-134-142 stitches.
Put piece together. Insert 1 marker thread where piece was put together (mid under sleeve), move the marker thread upwards when working - use the marker thread for increase mid under sleeve.
Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 3 cm from where marker was inserted, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-4-3-3-2½-2½ cm 4 times in total.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-7-7-6-5 cm from where piece was put together, decrease 20-22-24-26-28-30 stitches evenly on round.
After all increases and decreases, there are 88-94-100-106-114-120 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures 16-16-15-15-14-12 cm from where piece was put together.
On next round decrease 22-24-28-32-36-40 stitches evenly = 66-70-72-74-78-80 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm, and work rib (knit 1 twisted/purl 1) for 6 cm.
Cast off with PICOT - remember explanation above.
Sleeve measures approx. 31-32-32-33-33-33 cm from cast-on edge.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch on front piece/back piece - distribute extra fabric nicely at the top of sleeve cap.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 110 to 126 stitches around the neck on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm (number of stitch should be divisible by with 2). Work rib in the (knit 1 twisted/purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off with picot.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle, pick up yarn from the front before next stitch (yarn between outermost stitch on right and left needle) and put it on left needle, knit 1 into back loop so that the stitch will lean towards the left (= 1 stitch increased).
symbols = pick up yarn before next stitch from behind with the left needle (yarn between outermost stitch on right and left needle), knit 1 into front loop so that the stitch will lean towards the right, slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 stitch from cable needle (= 1 stitch increased)
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, slip first stitch on cable knitwise, knit next stitch on cable needle, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 together, knit 1 from cable needle (= 1 stitches decreased)
symbols = marker is here
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Janne Taxholm wrote:

Undskyld, jeg læste det ikke korrekt. Opskriften er helt rigtig og god.

27.06.2023 - 12:39

country flag Janne Taxholm wrote:

Indtagningerne på for- og bagstykket passer ingen steder, og det er også skrevet meget mærkeligt

21.06.2023 - 15:30

country flag Giovanna Raffo wrote:

Il baby alpaca silk è fuori produzione ?non riesco più a trovarlo e nel vostro catalogo è "sospeso"

22.12.2022 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Giovanna, il filato in questione non è ancora ufficialmente fuori produzione ma al momento è "sospeso". Buon lavoro!

28.12.2022 - 19:08

country flag Zuzana wrote:

Ďakujem za inšpirujúci návod. Model som uplietla z priadze DROPS Safran, na veľkosť S som spotrebovala 250 g.

27.07.2022 - 14:20

country flag Conni wrote:

Summer freshness

14.01.2022 - 16:50