DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 6.00 BGN /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Piece of Sky

Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down, with increases for shoulders and decorative neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 230-50
DROPS Design: Pattern as-169
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 14, Morning mist

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 6.00 BGN /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (shoulders):
RIGHT SIDE:
Increase after markers 1 and 3 and before markers 2 and 4.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, pick the strand up from the back and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, pick the strand up from the front and knit in the back loop.

WRONG SIDE:
Increase after markers 4 and 2 and before markers 3 and 1.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick the strand up from the front and purl in the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous row, pick the strand up from the back and purl in the front loop.


DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Work 1 garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together and 1 garter stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The jumper is worked top down. The neck is worked back and forth, then the yoke in the round. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves. Front and back pieces are worked separately back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle.

NECK:
Cast on 98-104-104-110-116-122 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Work 3 RIDGES – read description above, back and forth.
To create a rolling-edge work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3, * twist the stitches on the right needle 360 degrees as follows: Take the strand to the right side and take the right needle under the piece and up to the right side, knit 6 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 3 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now join the piece and continue in the round.
Knit 1 round and decrease 14-16-10-12-14-16 stitches evenly spaced = 84-88-94-98-102-106 stitches.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches and insert them between 2 stitches: Count 1 stitch (shoulder-stitch), insert marker-1, count 40-42-45-47-49-51 stitches (back piece), insert marker-2, count 2 stitches (shoulder-stitches), insert marker-3, count 40-42-45-47-49-51 stitches (front piece), insert marker-4, there is 1 stitch left (shoulder-stitch).

Now work short rows in stocking stitch over one shoulder AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2 stitches for the shoulder on each row – read INCREASE TIP, as follows:
Work 3 stitches past marker-1 – remember to increase on the shoulder, turn, tighten the strand and work 3 stitches past marker-4 – remember to increase, turn, tighten the strand, * work 3 stitches past the previous short row – remember to increase, turn, tighten the strand, work 3 stitches past the previous short row on the other side, turn, tighten the strand *, work from *-* until you have worked 10 short rows on each side, finish the last row at the beginning of the round (between the 2 stitches between markers 1 and 4). You have increased 10 stitches at each marker.
Cut the strand. Move the start of the round to between the 2 stitches between markers 2 and 3 and work short rows here in the same way as on the first shoulder.
When the short rows are finished, there are 124-128-134-138-142-146 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work the next round as follows (the start of the round is still between markers 2 and 3):
Knit 1, increase 1 stitch for the shoulder, knit 60-62-65-67-69-71, increase 1 stitch for the shoulder, knit 2, increase 1 stitch for the shoulder, knit 60-62-65-67-69-71, increase 1 stitch for the shoulder, knit 1.
Continue working and increase for the shoulders each round. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
When you have increased 17-19-21-24-28-33 times (including the short rows) there are 152-164-178-194-214-238 stitches. The piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11-13-15 cm.

Now divide for the front and back pieces as follows:
Knit 1 stitch and place it on a thread for the sleeve, work 74-80-87-95-105-117 stitches in stocking stitch (front piece), knit 2, place these 2 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, work 74-80-87-95-105-117 stitches in stocking stitch and place these stitches on a thread for the back piece, knit 1 and place this stitch on the thread for the sleeve. Cut the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
= 74-80-87-95-105-117 stitches. Continue back and forth with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. The front is measured from the division.
When the piece measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 4 cm a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times = 68-74-79-87-97-109 stitches.
When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm from the division, cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 80-86-91-99-109-121 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures approx. 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm from the 6 cast-on stitches, knit 1 row from the right side and increase 6-8-11-11-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 86-94-102-110-122-134 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib from the wrong side as follows:
1 garter stitch, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch.
Cast off when the rib measures 4 cm.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 74-80-87-95-105-117 stitches for the back piece on circular needle size 5 mm and work in the same way as the front piece.

SLEEVES:
Start at the cast-on stitches for the armhole on the back piece. Using circular needle size 5 mm, work as follows from the right side:
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 cast-on stitches under sleeve, knit up 23-25-26-28-30-31 stitches as far as the 2 stitches on the thread (shoulder-stitches), place these 2 stitches on the needle and knit them, knit up 23-25-26-28-30-31 stitches to the cast-on stitches under sleeve on the front piece and knit up 1 stitch in each of these 6 stitches = 60-64-66-70-74-76 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth, with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side.
Decrease like this every 12-12-8-6-4-4 cm a total of 3-3-4-5-7-7 times = 54-58-58-60-60-62 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 41-39-39-38-36-35 cm, knit 1 row from the right side and increase 0-0-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 54-58-58-62-62-62 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib from the wrong side as follows:
1 garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* and 1 garter stitch.
Cast off when the rib measures 6 cm. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-44-42-41 cm.
Work the other sleeve in the same way, but starting at the cast-on stitches for the armhole on the front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the neck together mid-back, inside the 1 edge stitch.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Vaida wrote:

Pattern says "work 3 stiches past marker 1, remember to increase on the shoulder, turn, tighten the strand and work 3 stiches past marker 4... Work 3 stiches past the previous short row". Does increase is doing right after marker 1 then work 3 stiches, or first knit 3 stiches, then increase, turn and then how is second row? I don't understand this type of increase

02.03.2024 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vaida, work as follows: work until marker-1, work the increase after the marker as indicated in INCREASE TIP, from the right side, work 3 stitches, turn. Now work back, work 3 stitches + the increased stitch, increase before marker-1 as indicated in INCREASE TIP, from the wrong side, and work until marker-4, increase after the marker as indicated in INCREASE TIP, from the wrong side, work 3 stitches, turn. Continue in the same way. Happy knitting!

04.03.2024 - 00:47

country flag Eija wrote:

Malli 230-50 piece of sky ohje on tasona voiko sen neuloa suljettuna?

30.01.2024 - 10:12

DROPS Design answered:

Pääntien reunus neulotaan tasona, mutta tämän jälkeen neulotaan suljettua neuletta.

06.03.2024 - 17:20

country flag Monique wrote:

Hi I am new to knitting, I crochet normally. In the increase section after working the short rows do you increase 17stitches in total? Because 124 (small) + 17 isn’t 152 st it’s 141? What does “(including the short rows)” mean? Also when you are knitting 60 then inc 1 it doesn’t line up evenly each round is that planned? Thanks for the help :)

22.01.2024 - 00:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Monique, you have to increase a total of 17 times, you already increased 10 times with the short rows = 84 sts + 10x4= 124 sts, you have to increase 7 more times: 124 +4x7= 152 sts. The increases should always be worked on same place, ie the number of sts between increases will increase by 2 after every increase round., on 2nd time you will work 62 sts, 3rd time 64 sts... Happy knitting!

22.01.2024 - 10:39

country flag Ute Neumann wrote:

Für dieses Modell PIECE OF SKY, Größe XL, mit Drops 230-50 Modell as -169, Garngruppe C, Apaca Silk..benötige ich WIEVIEL GRAMM ????????????? Dazu hatten wir heute/03.11.23 schon Mailes gesendet...leider ohne Ergebnis Ute Neumann

03.11.2023 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Neumann, die Garnmenge für jede Grösse finden Sie unten beim Kopfteil, so z.B. in S brauchen Sie 125 g DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk / 25 g das Knäuel = 5 Knäuel werden in S gebraucht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.11.2023 - 07:55

country flag ROBERT Maryse wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment faire les côtes mousse. 2rangs endroits???? Merci pour votre aide

29.09.2023 - 15:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, pour former 1 côte mousse, on va tricoter 2 rangs endroit (1 rang endroit sur l'endroit + 1 rang endroit sur l'envers); au tout début, on va donc tricoter 6 rangs endroit au total pour avoir 3 côtes mousse. Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter ce col, cela pourra peut-être vous aider? Bon tricot!

02.10.2023 - 08:54

country flag Vivian Eersels wrote:

Ik heb de verkorte naalden gedaan en begin nu met 1 recht , 1 meerderen , 62 recht.... Begin ik die rij eigenlijk in het midden van de schouder of op het einde ervan? Dit zijn 22 steken .

15.09.2023 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Vivian,

Je verplaatst het begin van de naald tussen markeerdraad 2 en markeerdraad 3 en dan in tussen de 2 steken die tussen die markeerdraden in zitten.

18.09.2023 - 20:30

country flag Mari wrote:

I will do this one in M, but I wonder how I can increase the with of the collar, as I want it a little bit wider as a boatneck ?

08.04.2023 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mari, to increase the width you should cast on more stitches for the neck and then decrease more stitches, to reach the necessary yoke stitches (88), as long as your gauge matches the one in the pattern. You can see how to calculate a pattern here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=19 Take into account that this is still a round neck; to work a boat neck you should adapt your pattern to another one with a boat neck; you can find them in our collection by searching: "boat neck". Happy knitting!

08.04.2023 - 21:08

country flag Krystyna wrote:

Po markerze oznaczajacym poczatek okrazenia, gdzie umiescic nastepny marker? Po pierwszym oczku, czy po 47 oczku(rozmiar xl)

24.03.2023 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Krysiu, ten pierwszy marker oznaczający początek okrążenia powinien być w innym kolorze niż 4 pozostałe i będzie cały czas w tym samym miejscu. Teraz umieszczasz 4 markery, bez przerabiania (markery są między 2 oczkami) - pierwszy z nich jest za 1 oczkiem, kolejny za 47 oczkami i dalej wg opisu - patrz KARCZEK. Pozdrawiamy!

27.03.2023 - 10:12

country flag Ingrid Quan wrote:

Bonjour, Comment savoir combien de pelotes seront nécessaires quand on choisit un modèle s'il vous plait? Merci beaucoup!

26.01.2023 - 14:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Quan, vous retrouverez systématiquement la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille dans l'ordre indiqué, sous l'en-tête, autrement dit, il faut ici en taille S: 125 g DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk/25 la pelote = 5 pelotes Brushed Alpaca Silk en taille S. Bon tricot!

26.01.2023 - 15:50

country flag Kieffer wrote:

Bonjour, Puis-je utiliser l'association de fils "DROPS Kid-Silk 16, violet foncé + DROPS Flora 09, améthyste" pour ce modèle ? Merci !

07.01.2023 - 08:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Kieffer, pour toute assistance au choix des couleurs, merci de bien vouloir contacter directement votre magasin DROPS, on pourra vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

09.01.2023 - 08:56