DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Cotswolds Cardigan

Knitted jacket for baby in DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down, with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes 0 – 2 years.

DROPS Baby 43-2
DROPS Design: Pattern fl-006-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 - 92

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-150-150 g colour 20, peach pink

DROPS BUTTONS NO 628: 5 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked right after the neck. Then work the other 4 buttonholes with approx. 4½-4½ 5-5½-6 cm between each one.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
On the front and back pieces the increases are included in the diagram. Increase as follows on the sleeves:
Increase 1 stitch after markers 1 and 3. Knit the marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over.
Increase 1 stitch before markers 2 and 4. Work as far as the marker-stitch and make 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch.
On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes!
Repeat this increase every row from the right side a total of 10-12-14-16-17 times.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 93-93-93-111-111 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and DROPS Flora.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. Then work rib as follows:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work this rib for 2 cm. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.

YOKE:
Work the BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above!
On the first row from the right side insert 4 markers and work as follows:
Front piece: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, then A.2 0-0-0-1-1 time, A.3.
Sleeve: Insert marker 1 in the next stitch, work 12 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert marker 2 in the next stitch.
Back piece: Work A.4, A.2 3-3-3-4-4 times, then A.3.
Sleeve: Insert marker 3 in the next stitch, work 12 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert marker 4 in the next stitch.
Front piece: Work A.4, A.2 0-0-0-1-1 time, A.5 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern on the next row from right side start to increase for sleeve – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 to A.5 are completed, work the next row from the right side as follows:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, A.2 1-1-1-2-2 times, A.3, work stocking stitch and increase as before over the sleeve as far as marker 2, work A.4, A.2 5-5-5-6-6 times, A.3, work stocking stitch and increase as before over the sleeve as far as marker 4, work A.4, A.2 1-1-1-2-2 times, A.5 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat this pattern in height. Each time A.3 and A.4 are repeated in height, there is room for 1 more repeat of A.2 on the front pieces and 2 more repeats on the back piece. When A.3 and A.4 have been worked 2-2-3-3-3 times in height, the increases are finished on the front and back pieces; continue increasing only on the sleeves as explained above. Continue the pattern on the front and back pieces, but without further increases.
When all the increases are finished there are 189-197-229-255-259 stitches. Now work pattern as follows:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 7 stitches, A.2 3-3-4-5-5 times, work 37-41-45-49-51 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 9-9-11-12-12 times, work 37-41-45-49-51 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2 3-3-4-5-5 times, A.5 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When you work round 5 in A.2 on the back piece, knit the first stitch in the first repeat, the last stitch in the last repeat is worked over the first stitch on the sleeve.
When the piece measures 12-13-14-15-16 cm from the cast-on edge, divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, work 25-25-31-37-37 stitches as before, place the next 37-41-45-49-51 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches under the sleeve, work 54-54-66-72-72 stitches, place the next 37-41-45-49-51 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches under the sleeve, work 24-24-30-36-36 stitches as before and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
= 127-127-151-169-169 stitches.
Continue back and forth as follows: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, A.2 until there are 12 stitches left, work A.5 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
When the piece measures 9-12-13-15-17 cm from the division, increase 20-20-22-26-26 stitches evenly spaced on the next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 147-147-173-195-195 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib from the wrong side as follows: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 3 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 24-28-30-33-36 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 37-41-45-49-51 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 43-47-51-55-57 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and work stocking stitch in the round for 1 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-2-2-2½ cm a total of 3-5-6-7-8 times = 37-37-39-41-41 stitches. When the sleeve measures 10-12-15-16-22 cm from the division increase 5 stitches evenly spaced = 42-42-44-46-46 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 13-15-18-19-25 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = this square has no stitch as it was decreased earlier; go straight to the next symbol in the diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (71)

country flag Florine wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour ce retour. Je ne comprends pas car lorsque l’on calcule le nombre de mailles dans les explications qui précèdent la fin des augmentations, le dernier rang, on a 219m: 6m mousse, A1(7m), 2xA2(2x6m), A3(11m), 41m manche, A4(12m), 7xA2(7x6m),A3(11m), 41m manche, A4(12m), 2xA2(2x6m), A5(6m), 6m mousse Ça donne 219 mailles, ce que j’ai… Alors qu’il est indiqué qu’on doit avoir 197m Merci d’avance

22.03.2024 - 17:52

country flag Florine wrote:

Bonjour, Je fais ce modèle pour la taille 1/3 mois. Je me retrouve à l’endroit où toutes les augmentations sont terminées mais j’ai 219 mailles et non 197 comme attendu dans les explications. J’ai pourtant bien ajouté 1 motif de A2 pour chaque devant et 2 pour le dos lors du dernier motif, bien fait mes 12 augmentations pour la raglan, je ne comprends pas Pouvez vous m’aider ? Merci d’avance Florine

22.03.2024 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Florine, vous aviez 93 m, vous avez augmenté 4 m pour chaque manche (8 m au total) + 12 x 2 mailles x 2 manches = 48 m + dans les diagrammes pour les devants et le dos: 24 mailles à chaque fois que les 8 rangs des diagrammes ont été faits x 2 motifs en hauteur = 48 augmentations pour le raglan des devants et du dos soit: 93+8+48+48=197 mailles. Bon tricot!

22.03.2024 - 15:26

country flag Sofi wrote:

Bonjour, je fais un 2ans, quand vous dites quand A3 et A4 ont été tricotés 3 fois en hauteur arrêtez les augmentations des devants et dos", on compte le nb de A3 et A4 à partir des côtes ou après la 1ere hauteur de diagramme fait? Merci

19.03.2024 - 11:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sofi, vous comptez le nombre de fois que vous avez tricoté les diagrammes en hauteur, soit 8 rangs pour chaque motif en hauteur x 3 = 24 rangs. Bon tricot!

19.03.2024 - 15:17

country flag Jacquelien VAsselt wrote:

Ik kom niet uit met het steken aantal dus lukt het Patroontje niet om te breien

11.03.2024 - 16:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacquelien,

Misschien kun je aangeven waar je precies bent, welke maat je breit en hoeveel steken je overhoudt of tekort komt, dan kunnen we je wellicht beter helpen.

11.03.2024 - 20:39

country flag Sofi wrote:

Bonjour, je vous remercie pour vos explications, c est la 1ere fois que je m attaque à un projet, plus compliqué, vos explications avec le détail du nombre de mailles m aident bien, est ce possible de les avoir aussi à d autresxetapes que celles notées sur le tuto. De plus quand vous dites après les augmentations des devants et du dos, continuer sur le "point ajouré sans augmenter" ça veut dire qu on ne fait que le diagramme A2? Merci

11.03.2024 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sofi, en fait, à chaque fois que vous tricotez les diagrammes en hauteur, vous augmentez 6 mailles soit suffisamment de mailles pour 1 motif de A.2 en plus de chaque côté: vous avez ainsi 11 m dans A.3 et 12 m dans A.4 , au rang suivant = motif suivant en hauteur, vous tricotez 1 x A.2 + A.3 = 5 m au-dessus du A.3 précédent et A.4 = 6 m + 1 x A.2 au-dessus du A.4 précédent. Lorsque les augmentations sont terminées, notez dans le diagramme où vous en êtes et tricotez simplement comme avant, sans les jetés noirs, puis tricotez comme dans le descriptif quand vous avez le bon nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!

11.03.2024 - 15:50

country flag Sofi wrote:

Bonjour, j ai fait la 1ere hauteur du diagramme, au niveau du dos, il est noté ( je fais taille 2ans)1er Rang du diagramme A4 6 fois(6*6mailles), A2 (6mailles), A3 (5 mailles), soit 47 mailles, mais j ai 65 mailles pour le dos qui pour moi correspondent bien au nombre total de la fin du 1er diagramme A4 4 fois (12*4 mailles), A2 6 mailles, A3 11 mailles soit un total de 65 mailles.....je ne comprends donc pas ce que je dois faire.... Merci pour votre retour.

09.03.2024 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sofi, Lorsque les diagrammes ont été tricotés 1 fois en hauteur, vous avez avoir 47 mailles pour le dos (12 m de A.-1, 4x6 m de A.2 et 11 m de A.3); notez que c'est A.2 que l'on doit répéter pas A.4, autrement dit tricotez: A.4, répétez 6 fois A.2 et terminez par A.3; quand vous avez tricoté les diagrammes 2 fois en hauteur vous aurez alors 59 mailles (12 m A.1, 36 m A.2 et 11 m A.3). Bon tricot!

11.03.2024 - 08:10

country flag Andrea wrote:

Hola. No se en que me estoy equivocando pero para la talla 9 a 12 meses .no me coinciden los puntos al momento de decorar las partes entre mangas frente y espalda.me sobran 4 puntos. Al principio cuando coloco los marcador cada Delantero 18 . Mangas 16. Espalda 29 con las repetic. ..si sumo no da 93...por favor ayúdeme . No se en que me estoy equivocando..muchas gracias por su tiempo.

16.02.2024 - 02:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Andrea, los marcapuntos se insertan dentro de puntos. Deberías tener: 18 puntos (delantero), punto con marcapuntos (= 1), 12 puntos en la manga (aumentas 4 puntos para la siguiente fila), punto con marcapuntos (=1), 29 puntos (espalda), punto con marcapuntos (=1), 12 puntos en la manga (aumentas 4 puntos para la siguiente fila), punto con marcapuntos (=1), 18 puntos (delantero). 18+1+12+1+29+1+12+1+18 = 93 puntos, más los 8 aumentos en las mangas = 101 puntos.

18.02.2024 - 20:17

country flag Sif Aegisdottir wrote:

I can not let the pattern fit, you are supposed to stop increasing the masks in the back after 2 or 3 times pattern but I think you should keep on and the photo shows that too.

11.02.2024 - 23:47

country flag Cotswolds Cardigan wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få maskeantal til at passe str.6-9 mdr. 93 masker: Kantmasker 2•6=12 Forstykke A3=5•2=10 Ærme 2•12=24 Ryg A4,A2=12•3=36+A3=5=41 Det får jeg til 87 masker. Hvad har jeg misforstået?

22.01.2024 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Du har 93 masker og strikker 6 + A1=7 + A3=5 + 1 + 12 + 1 + A4=6 + A2=6x3=18 + A3=5 + 1 + 12 + 1 + A4=6 + A5=6 + 6 = 93m (6+7+5+1+12+1+6+18+5+1+12+1+6+6+6=93) De masker du tager ud på ærmerne 4 x 2 og de masker du tager ud ifølge diagrammerne lægges til de 93 masker så da har du 229 masker :)

31.01.2024 - 10:46

country flag Maren Helland wrote:

Viser til tidligere spørsmål. Ser at det samme gjelder i diagram A4: Her dukker det også plutselig opp en ekstra maske i rad 5 som ikke er der i rad 4. Hvordan skal jeg forstå dette? Skulle jeg ha økt noen masker i rad 4 eller er det både i A1 og A4 noen masker som ikke skal strikkes på rad 5?

20.01.2024 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maren. Se vårt svar til deg under ditt 1. spørsmål. mvh DROPS Design

29.01.2024 - 11:28