DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Shy Daisy

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted bottom up in stocking stitch with double neck edge and embroidered flowers. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 231-34
DROPS design: Pattern me-242
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 07, light brown

For the flowers we used:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 01, off white
50 g colour 30, mustard

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

NEEDLE: For embroidering.

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.75€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 129 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches), and divide the remaining 127 stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 33) = 3.8.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together and do not decrease over edge stitches.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), make 1 yarn over.
On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front piece back and forth in parts. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle up to sleeve cap, then work back and forth on circular needle. Assemble piece as explained in pattern. Work a double neck edge in the round on a short circular needle. Then embroider flowers on the front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 129-139-149-163-179-195 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with colour light brown in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, A.1 until 2 stitches remain, work first stitch in A.1 so that the rib is the same in each side, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib back and forth like this for 6 cm. Now knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 33-35-37-41-45-49 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 96-104-112-122-134-146 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
Now work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, cast off 3-3-4-5-6-7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for armholes = 90-98-104-112-122-132 stitches.
On next row from right side, continue decrease for armholes in each side as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work until 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches remain, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
Decrease like this on every other row (= every row from right side) 3-5-6-8-10-12 times in total = 84-88-92-96-102-108 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, cast off the middle 38-38-40-40-42-42 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 22-24-25-27-29-32 stitches for shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on the same number of stitches and work the same way as back piece. When decreases are done for armholes are done, there are 84-88-92-96-102-108 stitches on round.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm, slip the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches on a thread for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Right shoulder:
Work as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 3-3-3-4-4-4, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), work the rest of row as before. Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
Decrease like this on every other row (= every row from right side) 9 times in total = 22-24-25-27-29-32 stitches for shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-60-64 cm. Cast off.
Left shoulder:
Work as follows from right side: Work until 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches remain on row, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and knit 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
Decrease like this on every other row (= every row from right side) 9 times in total = 22-24-25-27-29-32 stitches for shoulder. Continue to work until piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 70-72-74-76-80-82 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with colour light brown DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work A.1 in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 18-18-18-18-20-20 stitches evenly = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm.
Insert a marker thread at beginning of round. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 10-10-10-9-9-7 cm from cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this approx. every 3½-3-2½-2½-2-2 cm 10-11-13-14-16-17 times in total = 72-76-82-86-92-96 stitches. Continue to work until sleeve measures 46-45-45-44-42-41 cm. On next round cast off 6-6-8-10-12-14 stitches mid under sleeve (i.e. 3-3-4-5-6-7 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 66-70-74-76-80-82 stitches.
Then work armholes in stocking stitch back and forth, at the same time cast off stitches at beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 6-5-4-8-8-9 times, 1 stitch 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 3 stitches 3-4-5-2-2-1 time = 24-24-26-28-30-32 stitches remain. Cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures 53-53-53-53-52-52 cm in total. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edges. Sew sleeve cap to body inside cast-off edge on sleeves and inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body. Sew side seams from armhole and down - if desired leave a vent of 6 cm (the same length as rib at the bottom).

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Pick up 120-136 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on circular needle size 3.5 mm with colour light brown in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work A.1 in the round for 10 cm. Now increase 1 stitch purl in every other section with purl stitches. Work until rib measures 12 cm. The neck edge is later folded double and assembled so that the neck edge is approx. 6 cm. Cast off with knit over twisted knit and purl over purl – read CAST OFF TIP.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

EMBROIDERING:
Now embroider on as many flowers as desired on front piece. Embroider on the flowers evenly or as you wish.

FLOWER:
Begin by embroidering a backstitch with colour mustard - see diagram A and diagram explanation - embroider the knot so that it is 0.5 to 1 cm in diameter.
This is the centre of flower.
Then embroider with chain stitches around the flower’s centre with colour off white - see diagram B and diagram explanation, embroider 5 stitches around the centre and every stitch is approx. 1-1.5 cm long. Fasten off.

Diagram

symbols = knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = Backstitch knot 1-4 pictures
PICTURE 1: Insert needle from wrong side and up on front side where you want to begin the backstitch knot.
PICTURE 2: Insert needle down in piece and out on wrong side again approx. 0.5-1.5 cm from hole where yarn came up.
PICTURE 3: Sew up and down in the same holes as many times as desired thickness on backstitch knit.
PICTURE 4: Backstitch knot. Fasten strands on wrong side.
symbols = Chain stitches simple 1-6 pictures.
PICTURE 1: Insert needle from wrong side, and up on front side where you want the chain stitch to begin.
PICTURE 2: Insert needle down in same hole again as strand came from and insert tip of needle up again on front side approx. 2 cm forward - leave the strand under the tip of needle.
PICTURE 3: Now pull needle through piece and a loop is made with the strand coming up from the middle of loop.
PICTURE 4: Insert needle down in piece approx. 0.5 stitch in front of loop, and pull strand through piece.
PICTURE 5: The chain stitch is done, if you want more stitches begin from picture 1 again. Fasten strands on wrong side.
PICTURE 6: Here is a chain stitch sewn vertically, horizontally and then diagonally, some begin from the same hole and others begin in separate holes.

diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (3)

country flag Magdalena Pietrasik wrote:

W opisie jest podane że trzeba odnieść się do schematu a1 scieg fantazyjny ,ale ja nie widze żadnego schematu oprócz haftu

08.10.2023 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdaleno, schemat A.1 znajduje się po prawej stronie schematycznego rysunku swetra na dole strony. Pozdrawiamy!

09.10.2023 - 08:28

country flag Margareth wrote:

Margrietje

19.01.2022 - 13:08

country flag Hannah wrote:

Daisy Dreams

19.01.2022 - 07:53