DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Morning Dawn

Knitted jumper in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with stocking stitch, picot and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 232-27
DROPS Design: Pattern fa-490
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 623, rose mist
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-175-175-200 g colour 38, chalk

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 113 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 6 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 33) = 3.2.
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

PICOT:
Cast off as follows with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands):
Knit 1, * insert right needle between the next 2 stitches (not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over, pull the yarn over through the stitches and place on left needle *, work from *-* a total of 3 times (= 3 yarn overs on left needle), knit and cast off 7 stitches (= 1 stitch + 3 yarn overs + 3 stitches). Work from *-* and cast off 7 stitches in the same way along the whole edge. When there are not enough stitches to work another picot, cast off the remaining stitches as usual. Cut the strands and pull them through the last stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round as far as the armholes, then finished back and forth. The piece is sewn together to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 112-120-128-140-152-168 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 10 cm.
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
3 edge stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 2 stitches (1 stitch increased), A.2 over the next 104-112-120-132-144-160 stitches (= 26-28-30-33-36-40 repeats of 4 stitches) and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height there are 113-121-129-141-153-169 stitches.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 33-35-37-41-43-49 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 80-86-92-100-110-120 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side.
Work stocking stitch at the same time as you cast on 1 stitch at the end of the first 2 rows = 82-88-94-102-112-122 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm, cast off 2-3-3-4-5-6 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 78-82-88-94-102-110 stitches.
On the next row from the right side work decrease for the armholes as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 2, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (1 stitch decreased), work until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 together (1 stitch decreased), knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side, decreasing in the same way every 4th row a total of 2-3-4-5-8-10 times = 74-76-80-84-86-90 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm. Cast off the middle 26-26-26-28-30-30 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 23-24-26-27-27-29 stitches on the shoulder.
When the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm, cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 45-47-48-50-51-53 cm. Now place the middle 12-12-12-14-16-16 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Left shoulder:
Work stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side start to decrease for the neck: Work until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat the decrease on each row from the right side a total of 8 times = 23-24-26-27-27-29 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm. Cast off.
Right shoulder:
Work stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side start to decrease for the neck: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stocking stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), work to the end of the row. Repeat the decrease on each row from the right side a total of 8 times = 23-24-26-27-27-29 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-60-64-64-68-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (purl 2, knit 2) in the round for 5 cm.
Continue with A.2. When A.2 is finished, knit 1 round where you decrease 14-13-16-15-16-16 stitches evenly spaced = 46-47-48-49-52-52 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Work stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 11-12-12-9-8-8 cm. Now increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 8½-8½-6½-5½-4½-3½ cm a total of 5-5-6-7-8-9 times = 56-57-60-63-68-70 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-42-40 cm. On the next round cast off 4-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve (2-3-3-4-5-6 stitches on each side of the marker). Then cast off at the beginning of each row as follows: 4-2-2-1-1-1 stitches 1-2-3-4-7-10 times and 6-5-4-5-3-0 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-0 time on each side = 32-33-34-37-38-38 stitches. Cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 51 cm in all sizes.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew the sleeves to the body inside the 1 edge stitch on the body and the cast-off edge on the sleeve. Sew the side seams, leaving a 10 cm split at the bottom.

NECK:
Knit up 88 to 100 stitches inside the 1 stitch around the neck with short circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). The number of stitches should be divisible by 4.
Work rib (purl 2, knit 2) in the round for 5 cm. Cast off with PICOT – read description above.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 04.07.2022
Back and front pieces are same length.
Updated online: 06.01.2023
BACK PIECE: ... Continue this rib back and forth for 10 cm. Work the next row from the right side as follows:

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole. When working in the round on the sleeves, knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Isabel wrote:

In der Anleitung für das Vorderteil steht "wie das Rückenteil stricken". dann ab einer Länge von 45 cm ändert sich die Anleitung. Bis zu welchem Schritt des Rückenteils genau ist denn die Anleitung für das Vorderteil gleich? Liebe Grüße Isabel

26.01.2024 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Isabel, alles was davor kommt: Anschlag, Bündchen, Muster, Abanahmen, neue Maschen für die Naht, und das Abkette für die Armlöcher. Das Vorderteil stricken Sie genauso wie beim Rückenteil nur der Halsausschnitt beginnen Sie früher beim Vorderteil als beim Rückenteil.Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.01.2024 - 11:21

country flag Patsy Violaris wrote:

How do I decrease the sleeve raglan in the round? I’ve done the the first 3 stitch decrease but I’m stuck. Do I knit straight rows to decrease each side?

31.07.2023 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Violaris, when sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-42-40 cm from cast on edge, you will cast off the middle 4-6-6-8-10-12 stitches mid under sleeve then continue sleeve cap back and forth on needle, at the same time, cast off the stitches at the beginning of rows from both right side and wrong side to get a symmetrical sleeve cap. Happy knitting!

31.07.2023 - 11:48

country flag Stefanie wrote:

Hallo bei Drops, ein wunderschönes Modell! Nur eine Sache macht mir Schwierigkeiten… beim Beginn der Muster A1 und A2 soll mit der „Pfeilreihe der Diagramme“ begonnen werden. Ich finde leider keinen Pfeil?! Beginne ich mit der ersten Reihe? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe!!

06.11.2022 - 12:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stefanie, beginnen Sie bei der 1. Reihe im Diagram - eine Korrektur erfolgt, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.01.2023 - 11:00

country flag Raymonde wrote:

Je suis au diminution des manche on dit aller-retour dois-je changer ou garder mes aiguilles circulaires meilleur façon svp

26.10.2022 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Raymonde, vous pouvez continuer à tricoter sur l'aiguille circulaire, mais tournez maintenant à la fin de chaque rang pour rabattre les mailles de la tête de manche au début de chaque rang de chaque côté. Bon tricot!

27.10.2022 - 09:45

country flag Raymonde wrote:

Pour 232-27 les manches aug 81/2 est-ce en dessus du bras

14.10.2022 - 13:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Raymonde, les augmentations des manches se font sous la manche, à la transition entre la fin et le début des tours, cf AUGMENTATIONS (manches):. Bon tricot!

14.10.2022 - 16:11

country flag Raymonde wrote:

Sur 232-27 aug. Des manges on dit tous les 81/2 . Pour moi j’ai placé mon marqueur début du rang qui se trouve en dessus du bras et se sera 8 rvs . Merci de m’informer

14.10.2022 - 13:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Raymonde, effectivement, on augmente pour les manches tous les 8,5 cm, mesurez dans votre ouvrage le nombre de rangs correspondant à cette hauteur si c'est plus simple pour vous (avec 20 rangs = 10 cm comme l'échantillon, 8,5 cm correspondent à environ 4 tours). Bon tricot!

14.10.2022 - 16:10

country flag Agnethe ONeill wrote:

Model 232-27 Der står i opskriften, at man skal lukke 7 masker efter man har lavet omslagene. I videonen bliver der lukket 5 masker af. Jeg er forvirret. Hvad er det rigtige? Tak for jeres gode opskrifter.

02.09.2022 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Agnethe, du skal altid følge opskriften. Videoen viser teknikken (og det er samme teknik uanset om du lukker 5 eller 7 masker i picoten) :)

02.09.2022 - 14:51

country flag Lundee wrote:

Bonjour, Dans la rubrique "petit aperçu de l'ouvrage" il est écrit "le dos est 5 cm plus long que le devant" Or d'après les explications qui suivent ce n'est pas le cas..ai-je mal compris ? Merci !

04.07.2022 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lundee, merci d'avoir relevé cela, ce n'était qu'une erreur, le dos et le devant ont la même longueur, cette phrase a été supprimée. Merci! Bonne continuation!

04.07.2022 - 16:34

country flag Lundee wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour ce beau modèle que je suis en train de faire. Déjà fan de Fabel je découvre Kid Silk ! L'association des deux fils est un vrai bonheur à tricoter et un magnifique rendu. J'espère que vos équipes nous offrirons de nouvelles idées pour ce duo de fils !

28.06.2022 - 14:53

country flag Solfrid wrote:

Jeg vil gjerne strikke denne genseren til barn som er mellom 2 og 6 år, men finner ingen oppskrift. Kan dere hjelpe med dette?

06.06.2022 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solfrid, du kan strikke alle disse i den kombination med DROPS Fabel og Kid-Silk: Gensere til barn 16-17 masker

08.06.2022 - 14:37