DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
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Crystal Lattice

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down, with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern, bobbles and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-24
DROPS Design: Pattern z-956
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-100-108-120-130-142 cm = 33"-39⅜"-42½"-47¼"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 9026, blush

Or use:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-500 g color 48, blush

DROPS BUTTONS NO 628: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigansassembly free bobble lace round neck saddle shoulder top down
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (19)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up thread from from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck is finished. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8½-9-7½-8 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3¼"-3½"-2⅞"-3⅛" between each one.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. Before the rib, the body is divided for the split in each side and the pieces are finished separately, with the back piece slightly longer than the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 139-143-147-153-157-163 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛".
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 5-5-5-3-3-5 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 144-148-152-156-160-168 stitches. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Insert 1 marker-thread after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM THIS MARKER-THREAD!
In addition insert 4 markers, without working the stitches and inserting the markers between 2 stitches as follows. The markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.
Count 28-29-30-29-30-32 stitches (front piece), insert marker 1 before the next stitch.
Count 26-26-26-30-30-30 (shoulder), insert marker 2 before the next stitch.
Count 36-38-40-38-40-44 stitches (back piece), insert marker 3 before the next stitch.
Count 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches (shoulder), insert marker 4 before the next stitch.
There are 28-29-30-29-30-32 stitches left after marker 4.
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; you will increase at each marker.

INCREASES TO SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
You now work pattern and increase at the same time for the shoulders. Read the next section before continuing!
FIRST ROW FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 22-23-24-23-24-26 stitches), increase BEFORE marker 1 – read INCREASE TIP-1, work stockinette stitch over shoulder stitches to marker 2, increase AFTER marker 2, work stockinette stitch over back piece stitches to marker 3 increase BEFORE marker 3, work stockinette stitch over shoulder stitches to marker 4, increase AFTER marker 4, work A.2 (= 22-23-24-23-24-26 stitches) and 6 band stitches in garter stitch .
You have increased 4 stitches for the saddle shoulders – the number of stitches on the front and back pieces increases and the number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same.
NEXT ROW FROM THE WRONG SIDE: Work the pattern back from the wrong side and increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-2.

Continue this pattern back and forth and increase on all rows as above; differently from the right and wrong side so the stitches lie neatly. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 and A.2 until the pattern covers 33 stitches (if there is not room for the decrease and the yarn over in the pattern while increasing for the saddle shoulders, do not work the yarn over until there is room to both decrease and work the yarn over). When you have a enough stitches for 1 width of A.1/A.2 continue the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Repeat A.1 and A.2 in height.

Increase a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 240-252-264-284-296-312 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase the yoke measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" from the marker-thread on the neck.

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Continue the pattern back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
RIGHT SIDE: Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
WRONG SIDE: Increase AFTER markers 4 and 2 and BEFORE markers 3 and 1 – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You now are increasing on the sleeves, the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Increase EACH row a total of 8-9-10-5-10-3 times = 272-288-304-304-336-324 stitches.
The yoke measures approx. 10-11-12-12-14-12 cm = 4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-4¾" from the marker-thread.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the sleeves, with 40-42-44-38-48-34 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
On the next row from the right side increase 8 stitches, increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on the front/back pieces and on the sleeves and the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 11-13-15-20-20-26 times = 360-392-424-464-496-532 stitches.
When all the increases are finished the yoke measures approx. 17-19-21-24-26-28 cm = 6¾"-7½"-8¼"-9½"-10¼"-11" from the marker-thread.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm = 8"-8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜" from the marker-thread.
On the next row, divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 61-66-70-76-82-89 stitches (front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 102-112-120-132-144-158 stitches (back piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 61-66-70-76-82-89 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 240-260-280-304-332-360 stitches. Work the first row from the right side as follows: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 over the next 33 stitches, stockinette stitch until there are 39 stitches left, continue A.2 over the next 33 stitches and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth for 19 cm = 7½" – finish after a half or whole repeat of the pattern in height.
There is approx. 4 cm = 1½" left on the front pieces (6 cm = 2⅜" on the back piece).
Divide the body for the split in each side. Keep the first 65-70-75-81-88-95 stitches from the right side on the needle (left front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread/extra needle.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-20-23-25-26-29 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 84-90-98-106-114-124 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 4 cm = 1½". The front piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 65-70-75-81-88-95 stitches on the other side on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-20-23-25-26-29 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 84-90-98-106-114-124 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 4 cm = 1½". The front piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

BACK PIECE:
Place the remaining 110-120-130-142-156-170 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 33-35-39-43-47-51 stitches evenly spaced = 143-155-169-185-203-221 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm = 2⅜" (2 cm = ¾" more than the front pieces). The back piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

SLEEVES:
Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round 2 cm = ¾". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm = ½" a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm = 14¼"-13⅜"-13"-13"-12½"-11¾" from the division. There is approx. 8 cm = 3⅛" left; try the jacket on and work to desired length. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm = 17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-16⅛"-15¾"-15" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = Bobble: In same stitch - knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 4 stitches increased), work 4 rows stockinette stitch back and forth over these 5 stitches. On the next row from the right side pass the 2nd stitch over the first stitch, the 3rd stitch over the first stitch, the 4th stitch over the first stitch and the 5th stitch over the first stitch = 1 stitch left
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = back piece 2 cm = ¾" longer than this measurement
symbols = increases to saddle-shoulders
symbols = increases to sleeves
symbols = increases to yoke
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (19)

country flag Catherine Rigane wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas les augmentations empiècement. En taille L, j'ai bien 304 mailles : 58+46+96+46+58 Je dois avoir 44m pour les manches entre chaque m avec marqueur (44+2) Je dois obtenir 70+82+120+82+70 = 424 après les augmentations. Comment obtenir 82 en ajoutant 30 (15 ×2m)...de même pour le dos ... Merci beaucoup de votre réponse. Cordialement

04.03.2024 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rigane, nvous augmentez 15 fois 8 mailles pour le raglan, puis vous divisez l'ouvrage comme indiqué, certaines mailles des devants et du dos vont être attribuées aux manches lors de la division. Tant que votre nombre de mailles total est juste et que la répartition est bonne avant les augmentations du raglan, tout est correct. Bon tricot!

05.03.2024 - 09:05

country flag Myriam DEVAUCHELLE wrote:

Merci de votre réponse, je me suis compliqué les choses. Je pense avoir compris

11.04.2023 - 20:17

country flag Myriam DEVAUCHELLE wrote:

BONJOUR, je renouvelle ma question, en taille M, je suis aux augmentations "manches" , j'ai 260 mailles. Je n'arrive pas à comprendre où faire les augmentations pour en 9 fois obtenir 28 mailles et donc les 288 mailles comme vous l'indiquez , d'autant que 28 n'est pas divisible par 9. je suis perdue et vous remercie d'avance de vos conseils. cordialement

09.04.2023 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Vous trouverez votre réponse ci-dessous, si elle n'a pas suffit, merci de bien vouloir nous reformuler votre question. Merci pour votre compréhension.

11.04.2023 - 12:30

country flag Myriam DEVAUCHELLE wrote:

Bonsoir, je fais la taille M, je suis à 252 mailles, je commence l'augmentation des manches. je comprends 4 mailles au rang endroit ( qui est le 27 ° du diagramme) , 4 mailles au rang envers au niveau des marqueurs, soit 8 mailles= 260 mailles. ensuite ce serait 2 augmentations (marqueurs 1 et 3 ?) sur les rangs endroits 9 fois = 278, il m'en manque 10. Par rapport aux marqueurs où se trouvent ces augmentations? Je suis totalement perdue, merci de votre aide

06.04.2023 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Devauchelle, pour les manches, on augmente effectivement 9 fois (en taille M) 4 mailles tous les rangs (soit 252 + (9x4) = 288 m); les augmentations se font après le 1er et avant le 2ème marqueur + après le 3ème et avant le 4ème marqueur (sur l'endroit) et, sur l'envers: après le 4ème + avant le 3ème marqueur et après le 2ème et avant le 1er marqueur. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 11:54

country flag Barbro Göransson wrote:

Använder minsta storleken. Mönstret ¿börjar med att lägga upp 139 maskor och öka sedan 5 = 144 efter 3 cm. När jag sedan ska lägga in markörer efter att6,28,26,36,26,28,6 maskor blir detta 156 maskor. Ska det läggas upp 12 maskor extra utöver de 139 i början eller ingår kantmaskorna i de 28?

29.03.2023 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Barbro, du tæller alle masker med også kantmaskerne, så du får 28+26+36+26+28= 144 masker :)

13.04.2023 - 09:58

country flag Myriam DEVAUCHELLE wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée à l'empiècement et j'hésite sur le positionnement des 4 marqueurs du corps. quand vous écrivez de compter 29 mailles pour placer le premier marqueur, est ce y compris les 6 mailles de bordures? merci d'avance de votre réponse

27.03.2023 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Devauchelle, tout à fait, comptez bien les mailles dès la 1ère du rang soit: 29 m (devant gauche), 26 m (épaule), 38 m (dos), 26 m (épaule) et 29 m (devant droit); on a ainsi bien: 29+26+38+26+29=148 m. Bon tricot!

27.03.2023 - 13:33

country flag Henny wrote:

Onder de telpatronen A.1 en A.2 staan getallen: S=22 , M-XL= 23, L-XXL = 24 enz. Wat wordt hiermee bedoeld?

25.03.2023 - 09:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Henny,

De getallen zijn het aantal steken, dus het aantal steken dat het patroon breed is. Voor maat S begin je dus met 22 steken van het telpatroon. Voor maat M-XL met 23 steken, enzovoort.

27.03.2023 - 20:45

country flag Verena wrote:

Guten Tag, wenn man für die Passe , vor und nach dem Markierer zunehmen muss, braucht es da keine Zwischenmasche ?

10.11.2022 - 11:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Verena, ja genau, die Zunahmen für die Passe werden beidseitig von jeder Masche mit einer Markierung gearbeitet = diese Markierungen sollen in der äußersten Masche an beiden Seiten der Ärmel versetzt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.11.2022 - 16:53

country flag Barbara McDermott wrote:

On crystal lattice, knitting size small: I start chart at 22 stitches. Do I count increases each row and follow chart on each consecutive row from stitch 23, 24,, 25, etc.? And go backwards on A 2? It seems very confusing to me. Appreciate your help, thanks.

02.09.2022 - 02:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McDermott, after 1st increase rom WS on the right front piece you will end A.2 with the 23th stitch (seen from WS/from the left, 1 st after the 22th st), and on left front piece you will start A.1 with the 23th stitch in diagram (1 stitch before the 22 sts). Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

02.09.2022 - 09:01

country flag Françoise wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour vos modèles gratuits Au moment de commencer le corps, je voudrais savoir si les mailles du raglan sont visibles sur le devant, la manche ou à cheval entre les deux. J'ai le bon nombre de maille total mais je trouve que la répartition est bizarre. Merci si vous pouvez m'aider.

12.07.2022 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Françoise, il n'y a pas de raglan dans ce modèle. Il a des manches marteau. Ainsi, la distribution sera parallèle à l'épaule. Bon tricot!

24.07.2022 - 19:58

Crystal Lattice



Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down, with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern, bobbles and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 231-24
DROPS Design: Pattern z-956
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-100-108-120-130-142 cm = 33"-39⅜"-42½"-47¼"-51¼"-55¾"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 9026, blush

Or use:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-450-500-500 g color 48, blush

DROPS BUTTONS NO 628: 6-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up yarn from the back and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use left needle to pick up yarn between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up yarn from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up thread from from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will twist to the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck is finished. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8½-9-7½-8 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3¼"-3½"-2⅞"-3⅛" between each one.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. Before the rib, the body is divided for the split in each side and the pieces are finished separately, with the back piece slightly longer than the front pieces. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 139-143-147-153-157-163 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Baby Merino.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛".
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 5-5-5-3-3-5 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 144-148-152-156-160-168 stitches. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Insert 1 marker-thread after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM THIS MARKER-THREAD!
In addition insert 4 markers, without working the stitches and inserting the markers between 2 stitches as follows. The markers are used when increasing for the shoulders.
Count 28-29-30-29-30-32 stitches (front piece), insert marker 1 before the next stitch.
Count 26-26-26-30-30-30 (shoulder), insert marker 2 before the next stitch.
Count 36-38-40-38-40-44 stitches (back piece), insert marker 3 before the next stitch.
Count 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches (shoulder), insert marker 4 before the next stitch.
There are 28-29-30-29-30-32 stitches left after marker 4.
Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; you will increase at each marker.

INCREASES TO SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
You now work pattern and increase at the same time for the shoulders. Read the next section before continuing!
FIRST ROW FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 22-23-24-23-24-26 stitches), increase BEFORE marker 1 – read INCREASE TIP-1, work stockinette stitch over shoulder stitches to marker 2, increase AFTER marker 2, work stockinette stitch over back piece stitches to marker 3 increase BEFORE marker 3, work stockinette stitch over shoulder stitches to marker 4, increase AFTER marker 4, work A.2 (= 22-23-24-23-24-26 stitches) and 6 band stitches in garter stitch .
You have increased 4 stitches for the saddle shoulders – the number of stitches on the front and back pieces increases and the number of stitches on the shoulders remains the same.
NEXT ROW FROM THE WRONG SIDE: Work the pattern back from the wrong side and increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-2.

Continue this pattern back and forth and increase on all rows as above; differently from the right and wrong side so the stitches lie neatly. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 and A.2 until the pattern covers 33 stitches (if there is not room for the decrease and the yarn over in the pattern while increasing for the saddle shoulders, do not work the yarn over until there is room to both decrease and work the yarn over). When you have a enough stitches for 1 width of A.1/A.2 continue the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Repeat A.1 and A.2 in height.

Increase a total of 24-26-28-32-34-36 times = 240-252-264-284-296-312 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase the yoke measures approx. 8-8-9-10-11-11 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜" from the marker-thread on the neck.

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Continue the pattern back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
RIGHT SIDE: Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
WRONG SIDE: Increase AFTER markers 4 and 2 and BEFORE markers 3 and 1 – remember INCREASE TIP-2.
You now are increasing on the sleeves, the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Increase EACH row a total of 8-9-10-5-10-3 times = 272-288-304-304-336-324 stitches.
The yoke measures approx. 10-11-12-12-14-12 cm = 4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-4¾" from the marker-thread.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the sleeves, with 40-42-44-38-48-34 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
On the next row from the right side increase 8 stitches, increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on the front/back pieces and on the sleeves and the increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 11-13-15-20-20-26 times = 360-392-424-464-496-532 stitches.
When all the increases are finished the yoke measures approx. 17-19-21-24-26-28 cm = 6¾"-7½"-8¼"-9½"-10¼"-11" from the marker-thread.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm = 8"-8¾"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜" from the marker-thread.
On the next row, divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 61-66-70-76-82-89 stitches (front piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 102-112-120-132-144-158 stitches (back piece), place the next 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 61-66-70-76-82-89 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 240-260-280-304-332-360 stitches. Work the first row from the right side as follows: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, continue A.1 over the next 33 stitches, stockinette stitch until there are 39 stitches left, continue A.2 over the next 33 stitches and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth for 19 cm = 7½" – finish after a half or whole repeat of the pattern in height.
There is approx. 4 cm = 1½" left on the front pieces (6 cm = 2⅜" on the back piece).
Divide the body for the split in each side. Keep the first 65-70-75-81-88-95 stitches from the right side on the needle (left front piece). Place the other stitches on a thread/extra needle.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-20-23-25-26-29 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 84-90-98-106-114-124 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 4 cm = 1½". The front piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 65-70-75-81-88-95 stitches on the other side on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-20-23-25-26-29 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 84-90-98-106-114-124 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 4 cm = 1½". The front piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

BACK PIECE:
Place the remaining 110-120-130-142-156-170 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 33-35-39-43-47-51 stitches evenly spaced = 143-155-169-185-203-221 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 3 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1*, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm = 2⅜" (2 cm = ¾" more than the front pieces). The back piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" from the shoulder down. Bind off a little loosely.

SLEEVES:
Place the 68-74-82-90-94-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round 2 cm = ¾". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 1½ cm = ½" a total of 3-5-8-12-15-18 times, then every 4th round 4-4-4-3-2-0 times = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-34-33-33-32-30 cm = 14¼"-13⅜"-13"-13"-12½"-11¾" from the division. There is approx. 8 cm = 3⅛" left; try the jacket on and work to desired length. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-41-41-40-38 cm = 17¼"-16½"-16⅛"-16⅛"-15¾"-15" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbol = knit 2 together
symbol = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbol = Bobble: In same stitch - knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 4 stitches increased), work 4 rows stockinette stitch back and forth over these 5 stitches. On the next row from the right side pass the 2nd stitch over the first stitch, the 3rd stitch over the first stitch, the 4th stitch over the first stitch and the 5th stitch over the first stitch = 1 stitch left
symbol = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbol = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbol = back piece 2 cm = ¾" longer than this measurement
symbol = increases to saddle-shoulders
symbol = increases to sleeves
symbol = increases to yoke

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