DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 4.25 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.25CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 229-2
DROPS design: Pattern vs-088
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Piece measures (measured flat):
Width approx.: 42 cm = 16 1/2"
Height approx.: 40 cm = 15 3/4" without strap.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250 g color 22, rose water

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM = US 6.

CROCHET GAUGE:
18 double crochets in width and 9 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE! Remember that hook size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller hook.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 4.25 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.25CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

CHAIN STITCHES:
If you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight.
1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
WHEN WORKING A.1 BEGIN AND END ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
At the beginning of every round with double crochets work 3 chain stitches to replace first double crochet, i.e. skip 1st double crochet from previous round. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
WHEN WORKING A.2 BEGIN AND END ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
When round begins with 1 double crochet, replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches, and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch.
When round begins with 1 chain stitch, work round as follows:
Work 3 chain stitches (replace last double crochet), 1 chain stitch (first chain stitch in pattern), work pattern as before until 1 double crochet remains (this was replaced by 3 chain stitches at beginning of round), and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch. Work 1 single crochet around first chain stitch (this is done to avoid the round from displacing).
WHEN WORKING A.3 BEGIN AND END ROWS AS FOLLOWS:
First double crochet on row is replaced by 3 chain stitches and last double crochet is worked in 3rd chain stitch on previous row.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round.

BAG:
Work 40 CHAIN STITCHES - read explanation above, on hook size 4 MM = US 6 with DROPS Belle.
Now work on both sides of chain stitch row as follows:
Work A.1 in first chain stitch – read CROCHET INFO, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 38 chain stitches, A.1 in next chain stitch, turn piece to work from the other side of piece as follows: Work A.1 in same chain stitch as on the other side, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 38 chain stitches on the other side of chain stitch row and finish with A.1 in last double crochet = 84 double crochets and 4 chain spaces.

Continue with A.1 and 1 double crochet in every double crochet. On last round A.1 increase 4 double crochets evenly. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 160 double crochets on last round. Work A.2 in the round.
Repeat A.2a vertically.

When lace pattern measures 33 cm = 13", adjust to finish with one whole bobble group (1 bobble group = 4 bobbles). Work 1 round with 1 double crochet in every double crochet and 1 double crochet around every chain stitch. Cut and fasten the yarn.

STRAP:
Work 7 chain stitches on hook size 4. Work A.3. Repeat A.3a vertically.
When strap measures approx. 65 cm = 24 3/4", finish nicely with pattern, work 1 edge around the strap as follows (i.e. work around double crochet rows): Work 1 single crochet around first double crochet row, * 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in next double crochet row *, work from *-* over both sides of strap.
If the edge is tight, work more chain stitches between single crochets.
Fasten off. Sew strap on to bag in each side.

Diagram

symbols = double crochet in stitch below
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch
symbols = chain stitch - if you work at the end of crochet hook the chain stitch will often be too tight 1 chain stitch should be just as long as 1 double crochet is wide.
symbols = this round has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in stitch on previous round
symbols = Bobble: * Make 1 yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, get yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 7 loops on hook.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Laura wrote:

Cosa vuol dire sull ultimo giro di A1aumentare di 4 maglie alte in modo uniforme!?? Scusate ma sono principiante 😏

03.02.2024 - 00:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Laura, deve aumentare 4 maglie alte a distanze regolari. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 10:21

country flag Laura wrote:

Non ho capito come eseguire i diagrammi. Cioè inizio con la prima riga di A1 poi prima riga della A2!? Non è spiegato per niente bene!!!!

02.02.2024 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Laura, è tutto spiegato nel modello: deve lavorare tutto il diagramma A.1 e alla fine di A.1 inizia a lavorare A.2. Buon lavoro!

03.02.2024 - 10:20

country flag Lorraine Shepherd wrote:

Can you tell me what the difference is between working vertically and in the round? A.1 and A2a are worked vertically and A2 in the round and I don’t know how to work these differently.

18.08.2023 - 20:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lorraine Shepherd, it means you finish the whole diagram A.1, then continue with diagram A.2. All of them are crocheted in round. Vertically means in height. Hope it helps!

18.08.2023 - 20:56

country flag Jennigje wrote:

Na een avond haken en weer uithalen (ik had ook alleen maar 120 stokjes aan het einde van A1) en een beetje rekenwerk kwam ik tot de conclusie dat A1 dus 4 maal gehaakt moet worden in elke ronde. Dus 1 keer A1, 38 stokjes, 2 keer A1 aan het einde van de 40 lossen, 38 stokjes, 1 keer A1. Verder heb ik geen problemen met dit patroon.

27.10.2022 - 19:42

country flag Merlijne wrote:

Ik heb in het begin aan 2 kanten gehaakt, toen verder rond, met aan de uiteindes figuur a.1. bij de eerste toer had ik zoals beschreven 84 stokjes. Nu bij toer 5 kom ik toch op maar 120 steken uit. Hoe kom ik aan 160 stokjes?

25.08.2022 - 16:08

country flag Inge Cholewa wrote:

Har virkelig udfordringer med måden man får omgangene pæne ved A2. Er ellers rimelig erfaren med opskrifter, men den beskrevne måde at slutte omgangene på , får stadig mit arbejde til at være skævt . Kan man henvise til en video som viser det?

05.08.2022 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Inge, vi har en som viser hvordan man hækler rundt med stangmasker: Hækl rundt med stangmasker Det kan også være at denne video kan hjælpe dig: Hvordan får man hæklede kanter lige

11.08.2022 - 08:57

country flag Loretta wrote:

Mi scuso diagramma A2 grazie

01.06.2022 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loretta, veda il commento precedente, in ogni caso deve continuare a ripetere A.2. Buon lavoro!

01.06.2022 - 21:29

country flag Loretta wrote:

Buongiorno il diagramma A1 dopo i 10 punti ricomincia dall'inizio? Tra una nocciolina e l'altra della stessa riga ci devono essere sempre gli stessi punti anche alla fine , cosa vuol dire le tre catenelle sostituiscono il primo punto alto devo saltare il primo punto del diagramma?

01.06.2022 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loretta, il diagramma A.2 viene ripetuto sul giro. Durante la lavorazione di A.2, deve iniziare il giro in modo diverso a seconda della maglia di inizio: se il giro inizia con 1 catenella, deve lavorare 3 catenelle. Buon lavoro!

01.06.2022 - 21:28

country flag Pien wrote:

Klopt het dat er 160 stokjes op de laatste toer zijn. Ik kom op 120 stokjes

19.03.2022 - 18:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Pien,

Ja er horen 160 stokjes te zijn. In het begin, nadat je de lossen hebt gehaakt, haak je A.1 38 stokjes en A.1 en dan haak je nog eens A.1 aan de andere kant van de 38 stokjes. Je haakt dus niet heen en weer, maar in de rondte.

21.03.2022 - 07:12

country flag Kristina wrote:

Hej! Vilken maska utgår A1 ( stjärnan) från? Sitter med första varvet klart, har 84 maskor och fyra luftmaskbågar. Om man tittar på bilden av väskan är det endast en luftmaskbåge i var sida på varje varv men enligt mönstret blir det fyra? Får inte ihop mönstret. Tacksam för hjälp, Med vänlig hälsning, Kristina

13.03.2022 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Kristina Du ser bare halve siden av vesken og da ser du bare den ene luftmaskebuen. Du skal ha 4 luftmaskebuer, 2 i hver side, så du har heklet riktig. mvh DROPS Design

21.03.2022 - 11:40