DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Nature Lyrics

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with raglan, double neck and cables. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 230-12
DROPS Design: Pattern z-964
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-112-128-136 cm = 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-44"-50 3/8"-53 1/2"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-500-550-600-650-700 g color 9028, lemon pie

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.65$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 80-80-96-96-112-112 stitches with short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Knit 1 round, then work rib as follows: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and purl 1.
Continue this rib for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Change to short circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round, mid-back; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
On the next round, work pattern and increase to raglan as follows:
Work 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2, 1 yarn over, 16-16-24-24-32-32 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2, 1 yarn over, 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches in stockinette stitch.
There are now 96-96-112-112-128-128 stitches, after increasing 1 stitch on each side of each A.1/A.2 to raglan and 2 stitches in each A.1/A.2. The yarn overs in A.1/A.2 are knitted twisted to avoid holes, the other yarn overs are knitted to leave holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1a/A.2a every 2nd round a total of 19-23-21-25-26-31 times = 240-272-272-304-328-368 stitches. Repeat A.1a and A.2a in height.
and continue working until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/4" from the marker.
On the next round divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 27-31-33-37-42-47 stitches with stockinette stitch and A.1a (= 10 stitches) as before, place the next 46-54-50-58-60-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work A.2a as before (= 10 stitches), 54-62-66-74-84-94 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1a as before (= 10 stitches), place the next 46-54-50-58-60-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches, work A.2a as before (= 10 stitches), 27-31-33-37-42-47 stitches in stockinette stitch. Cut the strand.

BODY:
= 164-180-192-208-232-252 stitches. Start in the middle of the cast-on stitches under one sleeve. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.1a/A.2a, working the cast-on stitches under each sleeve in stockinette stitch.
When the body measures 24 cm = 9 1/2" from the division in all sizes, increase as follows on the next round:
Work 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 0-0-1-1-0-0 stitches evenly over these stitches, A.3 over A.2a, 54-62-66-74-84-94 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 10-10-14-14-16-18 stitches, A.3 over A.1a, 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 0-0-2-2-0-0 stitches, A.3 over A.2a, 54-62-66-74-84-94 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 10-10-14-14-16-18 stitches, A.3 over A.1a, 4-4-5-5-6-6 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 0-0-1-1-0-0 stitches = 192-208-232-248-272-396 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib as follows:
Sizes S-M: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2*, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2, purl 1.
Sizes L-XL-XXL-XXXL: Knit 1 * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2, knit 1.
Work this rib for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off with knit.

SLEEVES:
Place the 46-54-50-58-60-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-62-60-68-72-82 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Continue with stockinette stitch in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-4-5-2½-2-1 cm = 3 1/8"-1 1/2"-2"-1"-3/4"-3/8" a total of 4-7-5-8-9-13 times = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 30-29-26-25-22-21 cm = 11 3/4"-11 3/8"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-8 3/4"-8 1/4" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-8-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-56-60-60-64 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; knit the yarn over twisted on the next round to avoid a hole
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Ulla Schnitker wrote:

Hallo und guten Tag, wie ist die Aufteilung der Schräge für 2Mittelmaschen der Shräge?

26.02.2024 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulla, verstehe ich es richtig, dass Sie die Raglanlinien mit 2 Maschen statt mit dem Zopf stricken möchten? In diesem Fall schauen Sie am besten nach einem ähnlichen Raglanpulli, es gibt bei uns eine große Auswahl davon, auch in Garngruppe C. Da die Raglanlinien bei diesem Pulli mit dem Zopf etwas komplexer ist, lässt sich die Maschenzahl nicht gut auf 2 Maschen umrechnen, ohne dass sich möglicherweise auch die Form des Pullis verändert. Viel Spaß beim Stöbern!

27.02.2024 - 08:39

country flag Mitzi Russell wrote:

I have completed the yoke, cut the yarn and have 180 sts. and ready to start the body. The pattern says to start in middle of cast on sts.under one sleeve. However after completing the yoke, I am at beg. of round, which is mid back. Not sure how to get to the cast on sts. as I still have half of mid back on my needle. Do I put those sts. on a thread. Thank you for your response.

21.02.2023 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Russel, work the dividing round to the new stitches cast on mid under sleeve and add a marker in the middle of them, your rounds will now start from here (not from mid back anymore). Happy knitting!

21.02.2023 - 18:17

country flag Cardona Patricia wrote:

Bjr. Je suis entrain de tricoter le dos/devant mais je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut augmenter quand l ouvrage mesure 24cm! à la fin du tricot! D autant plus que sur le diagramme le pull est droit et non évasé. Merci pour votre réponse. PC

14.01.2023 - 15:11

country flag Cardona Patricia wrote:

Bjr. Je suis entrain de tricoter le dos/devant mais je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut augmenter quand l ouvrage mesure 24cm! à la fin du tricot! D autant plus que sur le diagramme le pull est droit et non évasé. Merci pour votre réponse. PC

14.01.2023 - 15:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Cardona, on doit augmenter car juste après, on va tricoter en côtes avec les aiguilles 4, et il faut plus de mailles pour tricoter des côtes avec les aiguilles 4 que pour tricoter du jersey avec les aiguilles 5, on va donc augmenter pour conserver la bonne largeur (car on ne veut pas non plus ici resserrer le bas du pull). Bon tricot!

16.01.2023 - 08:37

country flag Tigresse wrote:

Bonjour, je suis entrain de faire ce modèle en XXL. Je viens de mettre les mailles en attente pour les manches. Est-ce obligatoire de couper le fil? Pourquoi? Ne peut-on pas continuer le corps du pull tout en continuant le reste de vos explications ? J'ai du mal à comprendre. Faut-il glisser les mailles de l'aiguille gauche sur celle de droite jusqu'au point de redémarrage DOS & DEVANT ? merci d'avance pour vos réponses et vos explications.

07.12.2022 - 10:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Tigresse, la styliste a fait le choix de couper le fil à la fin du tour (milieu dos) pour reprendre au milieu sous une des manches. Il vous suffit ensuite de glisser la moitié des mailles du dos (la 1ère ou la 2ème, au choix) sur l'aiguille droite, sans tricoter, et de continuer en rond, à partir du milieu sous l'une des manches en tricotant soit les mailles du dos, soit celles du devant, en fonction de la manche choisie. Bon tricot!

07.12.2022 - 16:28

country flag Sara Grinberg Carida wrote:

Como dividir para fazer topdow

16.05.2022 - 22:32

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich für die Größe in M 272 Maschen gestrickt shabe, dann keine Umschläge mehr vor dem Muster machen und weiter stricken bis 23cm zusammen sind? Vielen Dank.

23.04.2022 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, ja genau, sollte die Arbeit kürzer als 23 cm ab der Markierung sein, dann stricken Sie glatt rechts und Zöpfe wie zuvor aber mit keine Zunahmen mehr beidseitig von den Diagrammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2022 - 08:49

country flag Sandra Langer wrote:

Hallo, doppelte Halsblende, was heißt das? Wird nicht nach 9cm die Blende zur Hälfte umgeknickt und zusammen gestrickt? Davon steht dort nichts. Danke vielmals im voraus für die Antwort.

21.04.2022 - 19:58

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Langer, die Halsblende wird am Ende zur Hälfte umgeschlagen und festgenäht (siehe unter FERTIGSTELLEN - dieses Video zeigt, wie man so eine Halsblende festnäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.04.2022 - 07:39

country flag Christine wrote:

So after I have 96 sts on my needle i Work 8 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.1a, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2a, 1 yarn over, 16 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.1a, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, A.2a, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in stockinette stitch. And repeat that for 18 more times? Also what does 2nd round mean?in increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1a/A.2a every 2nd round a total of 19 time

21.03.2022 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, your first round is correct, on next round, workd: knit 9 , work row 1 in A.1a (= P1, K8, P1), knit 10, work row 1 in A.2a (= P1, K8, P1), knit 18, work row 1 in A.1a, knit 10, work row 1 in A.2a, knit 9. On next round increase with a yarn over before and after each A.1a/A.2a and work round 3 in diagram. Continue like this increasing 8 sts on every other round. Can this help?

22.03.2022 - 09:44

country flag Christine wrote:

Ncrease 1 stitch on each side of A.1a/A.2a every 2nd round a total of 19-23-21-25-26-31 times = 240-272-272-304-328-368 stitches. Repeat A.1a and A.2a in height. Would you explain this part?

21.03.2022 - 02:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christine, on first row in A.1 and A.2 you will increase 2 sts in each A.1/A.2 (to keep the correct width); for the raglan you increase on either side of the diagrams but after whole diagram are done in height, repeat only the -a part = 10 rows ( = cross the stitches every 10th row). Can this help? Happy knitting!

21.03.2022 - 09:09