DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Woof Woof Sweater

Knitted jumper for babies and children in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with raglan and embroidered dog. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

DROPS Baby 42-1
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-130-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-150-150 (150-150) g colour 49, desert rose

For the embroidery use left-over:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
colour 04, chocolate brown

DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 1-1-2-2 (2-2) items, (only needed if you work the split at the back).

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 7.00 BGN /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work to the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over. Increase like this at each marker-stitch (8 stitches increased). On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES (if you work the split at the back):
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 1½ cm. Then work the other 0-0-1-1 (1-1) buttonhole after 4 cm.


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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked in the round, top down. If you would like a split at the back, begin by working back and forth, then continue in the round. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

WITHOUT SPLIT AT THE BACK:
If you want a split start at the next section.
Cast on 64-68-74-78 (82-88) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and DROPS Baby Merino.
Knit 1 round.
Then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 2 cm. Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid-back), the yoke is measured from this marker!
Knit 1 round and increase 8-12-6-14 (14-16) stitches evenly spaced = 72-80-80-92 (96-104) stitches.

Now insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Count 11-13-13-16 (17-19) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22-26-26-32 (34-38) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 11-13-13-16 (17-19) stitches left after the last marker.
On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of all the marker-stitches - read RAGLAN above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 12-14-16-17 (18-19) times = 168-192-208-228 (240-256) stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now go to JUMPER below.

WITH SPLIT AT THE BACK:
Cast on 71-75-81-85 (89-95) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and DROPS Baby Merino. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) with 6 stitches in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above. Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When the rib measures 2 cm, change to circular needle size 3 mm.
Insert 1 marker inside the 6 stitches at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 7-11-5-13 (13-15) stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 78-86-86-98 (102-110) stitches.

Now insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Count 14-16-16-19 (20-22) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22-26-26-32 (34-38) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch there are 14-16-16-19 (20-22) stitches left after the last marker. Work in stocking stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch on each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker-stitch – read RAGLAN! Increase like this on each row from the right side a total of 12-14-16-17 (18-19) times.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4-4-5-6 (6-6) cm, work the next row from the right side as follows:
Cast off the first 6 stitches, work to the end of the row.
Now continue in the round with stocking stitch (continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round). When all the increases to raglan are finished, there are 168-192-208-228 (240-256) stitches.
Move the beginning of the round to mid-back.

JUMPER:
When the piece measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm from the marker on the neck, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 23-27-29-32 (34-37), place the next 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches, knit 46-54-58-64 (68-74), place the next 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches and knit 23-27-29-32 (34-37).

BODY:
= 104-120-128-140 (148-160) stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch for 10-13-14-16 (18-21) cm from the division. On the next round increase 12-12-12-12 (16-16) stitches evenly spaced = 116-132-140-152 (164-176) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-52-56 (58-60) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 1 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP!
Decrease like this every 2½-2½-1½-2 (2-3) cm a total of 3-4-6-7 (7-7) times = 38-40-40-42 (44-46) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 8-11-12-15 (18-23) cm, increase 4-4-4-4 (6-6) stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-44-46 (50-52) stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 2 cm. Cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

EMBROIDERED DOG:
Embroider a dog on the front piece – see diagrams A and B.
The dog’s nose is worked in the middle of the jumper, 7 cm below the neck.

ASSEMBLY:
If you have worked a split at the back, sew the buttons onto the left band.
Lay the left band under the right band and sew together at the bottom.

Diagram

symbols = Back stitch, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and to the right side where you wish the stitch to start.
PICTURE 2: Skip 1-1.5 cm, insert the needle down and then up to the right side again approx. 1 -1.5 cm further on.
PICTURE 3: Pull the strand through. You have worked a stitch with a gap to the next stitch.
PICTURE 4: Insert the needle in the hole where the previous stitch ended and bring the needle up on the right side approx. 1 -1.5 cm further on.
If you want several back stitches, repeat picture 4.
PICTURE 5: When the last back stitch has been worked, insert the needle where the previous stitch ended. Pull the strand to the wrong side, cut and fasten the strand.
PICTURE 6: Back stitch. Can be worked vertically, horizontally, diagonally and round in a circle.
symbols = motif embroidered on the front piece.
symbols = 1 back stitch
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Lux wrote:

Hei, jeg strikker den største størrelsen uten splitt bak. Nå har jeg strikket raglan til 256 masker, som det står i "Genser uten splitt bak" avsnittet. Når jeg fortsetter til neste avsnitt, "Genser", står det at "Når arbeidet måler 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm fra merket..." Arbeidet mitt måler bare 10 cm fra merket. Hva gjør jeg nå?

22.01.2024 - 15:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lux, Du fortsetter å strikke, uten flere økninger til raglan, til riktig mål. God fornøyelse!

23.01.2024 - 06:50

country flag Marion Fricke wrote:

Det står feil antall garnnøster 150 gr. På den største holder ikke, heller ikke 200. Raglannen skal ende rett mot armhulen. Økningen slutter et godt stykke fra armhulen. dette var ikke en god oppskrift. Nå mangler jeg garn i samme innfarging og det ser ikke pent ut med forskjellug innfarging. Kjempe kjedelig. Har bilde av armhulen med økningene.

31.10.2023 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marion, Strikker du i DROPS Baby Merino? Har du 24 masker på 10 cm i bredden? Har du 32 pinde på 10 cm i højden? Hvis ja, så skriv gerne hvilken størrelse du strikker, så skal vi naturligvis se på den igen :)

31.10.2023 - 14:38

country flag Petra wrote:

Ich habe den Maschenanschlag von 78 für eine 1 jährige Mit nadel Nr. 3 genommen und möchte ohne Schlitz stricken. Kann es sein, dass die Angabe nicht stimmt? Ich habe einen gedehnten Umfang von 31cm. Da passt ein Kopf niemals durch. Kopfumfang 49. Mfg

25.10.2023 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, sollte Ihre Maschenprobe stimmen, dann sollte den Hals über den Kopf passen, beachten Sie nur, daß Ihr Anschlag nicht zu eng wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.10.2023 - 06:46

country flag Petra wrote:

Dobrý den, dotaz beru zpět, uź jsem na to přišla, špatně jsem dávala značky. Hezký den Petra

08.10.2023 - 15:15

country flag Petra wrote:

Opravují, chybí mi 2 oka, děkuji

07.10.2023 - 20:01

country flag Petra wrote:

Dobrý večer, pletu velikost 12/18 měs. se zapínáním za krkem. Mám na jehlicích po přidání 98 ok, pro raglánové zkosení si označím prvních 6 ok légy, pak rozložím značky 19_12_32_12 _19 ale do těch posledních 19 ok mi 4 chybí. Co mám udělat správně? Děkuji za odpověď. Petra

07.10.2023 - 19:57

country flag Marianne wrote:

Før man starter på vrangborden på BOL, så skal man ØKE x antall masker? Ikke felle?

26.04.2023 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marianne, ja det gør du så vrangborden ikke skal trække arbejdet sammen :)

26.04.2023 - 14:48

country flag Francine wrote:

Bonjour,pour la taille 1/3,après les côtes au début ,j’augmente pour avoir 86 mailles. Ensuite je place 4 marqueurs à 16-12-26-12-16 mailles.Ça fait un total de 82 ? Est-ce que c’est une erreur ou je ne comprends pas. Merci

11.04.2023 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, notez bien que les marqueurs doivent chacun être placés dans une maille (et pas entre les mailles), vous avez ainsi: 16+1+12+1+26+1+12+1+16=86 mailles. Bon tricot!

12.04.2023 - 08:19

country flag Berbett wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote en taille 0-1. Ne manque t'il pas quelques cm en jersey au niveau des manches ? Après avoir diminué 3X , puis augmenté de 4 m à intervalles réguliers (en tout 8cm depuis la séparation) faut-il de suite tricoté les 2 cm de 1m env 1 m endroit ? la manche me semble trop courte. Merci.

23.02.2023 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Berbett, la manche mesure effectivement 10 cm dans cette taille, mais pensez que l'empiècement apporte de la longueur à la manche également. Bon tricot!

24.02.2023 - 10:06

country flag Tatjana wrote:

Hello, can you pls clarify instructions for split back ..... Insert 1 marker inside the 6 stitches at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!.... Does this mean to place marker after first 3 stitches ? Thanks in advance

20.08.2022 - 11:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tatjana, we place the marker after the 6 stitches, between the edge (these 6 stitches) and the back. Happy knitting!

21.08.2022 - 21:01