DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Louise Slipover

Knitted vest/slipover in 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked in stocking stitch and garter stitch, with high/double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 226-59
DROPS Design: Pattern no wi-034
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
500-550-600 g colour 03, light grey

Or use
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600 g colour 03, pearl grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 9 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO: 630. 4 items.

KNITTING TENSION:
10 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm with 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes in each side of front piece. The 2 first buttonholes are worked when the piece measures 14 cm, the 2 second buttonholes are worked when the piece measures 28 cm.
Work the buttonholes as follows: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, work until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together, 1 yarn over and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. On the next row knit the yarn overs to leave holes.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are worked from the right side!
At the beginning of the row from the neck: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
At the end of the row towards the neck: Work until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth. The neck is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 82-88-90 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand DROPS Wish or 2 strands DROPS Air.
Work 4-5-6 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) and finish with 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch.
When the rib measures 3 cm change to circular needle size 9 mm and work as follows from the right side: 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch, work stocking stitch over 74-78-78 stitches and decrease 10-12-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch = 72-76-80 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 57-61-65 cm, cast off the middle 18-20-22 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 26-27-28 stitches on the shoulder. When the piece measures 60-64-68 cm, slip stitches on a thread.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 14 cm. Now start to work BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
Continue in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 54-56-58 cm.
Place the middle 12-14-16 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck. Then continue by decreasing 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch by the neck - read DECREASE TIP in explanations, 2 times = 26-27-28 stitches. When the piece measures 60-64-68 cm, slip stitches on a thread.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Use Kitchener stitches to graft/sew together the shoulder stitches that were placed on threads. Sew the buttons onto the back piece, matching the buttonholes on the front piece.

HIGH/DOUBLE NECK:
Knit up 64-68-72 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread) with short circular needle size 8 mm. Purl 1 round. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 15 cm (high neck) or 20 cm (double neck). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Double neck: Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.11.2023
BACK PIECE:... 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch, work stocking stitch over 74-78-78 stitches and decrease 10-12-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, 4-5-6 edge stitches in garter stitch = 72-76-80 stitches.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Esther wrote:

Ik begrijp niet hoe ik de hals moet opzetten. Er staat “neem 68 steken op rondom de hals”. Maar van achterpand 20 + voorpand 14, kom ik op 34 steken. Ben beginner, dus ik snap dit niet…?

24.03.2024 - 20:46

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Esther,

Je hoeft niet precies in dezelfde steken op te nemen. Het gaat erom dat je gelijkmatig verdeeld rondom de hals 68 steken opneemt.

27.03.2024 - 13:46

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, also ich schlage 82 M. an und nach dem Rippen soll ich 10 M abnehmen ( nach Wechsel auf größere Nadel ). Ich habe dann 72 M auf der Nadel, wie kommt Ihr auf 74 M?

27.10.2023 - 13:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, es sieht wie ein Typo aus, hier sollte man 72 Maschen lesen. Danke für den Hinweis, Anleitung wird korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.10.2023 - 08:32

country flag Delphine wrote:

Je pense que il y a une erreur dans les nombres de maille entre les diminutions et le nombre de maille restante pour la taille S. Sur quel chiffre faut il se baser, nombre maille restantes ou nombre de diminution? Merci pour votre réponse

09.03.2023 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Delphine, effectivement, nos stylistes vont corriger cela, il semble qu'en diminuant 10 m vous ayez 72 mailles, puis 26 pour l'épaule après l'encolure. Bon tricot!

09.03.2023 - 13:37

country flag Karoline wrote:

Ønsker å strikke denne i 2 tråder Air. Hvor mye garn må jeg beregne?

01.02.2023 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karoline, brug garnkalkulatoren. Vælg DROPS Wish, vælg antal gram i din størrelse og vælg 1 tråd, så får du et alternativ op med 2 tråde DROPS Air :)

02.02.2023 - 15:42

country flag Camilla wrote:

Hej Hvad størrelse er vesten strikket i S/M eller L/XL, for at jeg kan få en indtryk af, hvad størrelse man selv skal strikke i for at få oversize-looket?

29.11.2022 - 01:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Camille, du finder vestens mål i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

30.11.2022 - 15:28

country flag Iris Schuster wrote:

Hallo wieviele Knäuel Wolle brauche ich bin Anfängerin und weiß nie wieviele Knäuel ich brauche

22.11.2022 - 17:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schuster, die Garnmenge finden Sie im Kopfzeilen oben bei der Anleitung, zusammen mit den Größen, Nadeln, usw. So in S/M brauchen Sie z.B. 500 g DROPS Wish / 50 g das Knäuel = 10 Knäuel Wish. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.11.2022 - 08:51

country flag Monika Hoeflich wrote:

Das mit dem Rückenteil ergibt sich von alleine! Am Rückenteil auf die Außenseite oder die Innenseite! Vielen Dank, M.Hoeflich

07.10.2022 - 15:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hoeflich, die Knöpfe werden auf die Außenseiten (Vorderseite) genäht. Viel Spaß beim fertigstellen!

07.10.2022 - 16:08

country flag Monika Hoeflich wrote:

Da ich sonst eher Socken stricke wundere ich mich, wie die Knöpfe angenäht werden sollen. (Die Technik verstehe ich). Die Frage ist, ob der Knopf auf der Vorderseite oder Rückseite des Rückenteils angebracht wird. Ein Foto der Seitenansicht wäre da bestimmt hilfreich. Vielen Dank, Monika

06.10.2022 - 08:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Hoeflich, die Knopflöcher wird man am Vorderteil arbeiten (1 Knopf auf beiden Seiten, je nach 14 cm + nach 28 cm) - die Knöpfe werden dann am Rückenteil angenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.10.2022 - 09:03

country flag Sesemi wrote:

Der Pullunder lässt sich sehr gut mit einem italienischen Anschlag stricken.. Die kraus rechten Maschen an den Rändern werden wie angegeben gestrickt; ich musste keine Reihen auslassen.

10.09.2022 - 17:35

country flag Laurence Canepa wrote:

Après les cotes pourquoi diminuer de 12 mailles alors que le modèle a l’air de forme droite? Merci

14.08.2022 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Canepa, il faut plus de mailles pour la même largeur pour tricoter en côtes avec les aiguilles 8 que pour tricoter en jersey/point fantaisie avec les aiguilles 9, raison pour laquelle on va diminuer après les côtes, pour conserver la bonne largeur. Bon tricot!

15.08.2022 - 08:28