DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Merry Hearts

Knitted Christmas jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke and heart pattern. Size XS – XXL. Theme: Christmas.

DROPS 228-50
DROPS design: Pattern ai-343
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 25, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 03, pearl grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 80 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 16) = 5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 95-100-105-110-115-120 stitches on short circular needle size 4 mm with colour raspberry in DROPS Air. Knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 2/purl 3) for 4 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch in every purl section, decrease by purling 2 together = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 2. Work until rib measures 12 cm in total. Continue with circular needle size 5 mm.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round, measure yoke from this marker! Knit 1 round while increasing 8-16-18-26-28-30 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 84-96-102-114-120-126 stitches. Now work according to diagram A.1 (= 14-16-17-19-20-21 repetitions of 6 stitches). NOTE: Choose diagram for your size and read KNITTING TIP. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 224-256-272-304-320-336 stitches on round. Knit 1 round with colour raspberry while increasing 8-0-0-0-4-8 stitches evenly = 232-256-272-304-324-344 stitches. Continue in raspberry and stocking stitch until piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from marker.

Now divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 34-38-40-44-49-53 (= half back piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), knit 68-76-80-88-98-106 (= front piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are now 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches on round. Continue with stocking stitch and colour raspberry. Work until piece measures approx. 27-27-27-27-27-27 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 in the round. Work rib for 4 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with raspberry. When sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-6-4-3-2½-2½ cm 5-6-8-11-11-12 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Work without decreases until sleeve measures 38-36-36-35-34-32 cm from division (approx. 4 cm remain before finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-2-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-40-39-38-36 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
The neck edge can be folded and sewn into a double neck edge or use it as a high collar. If you want a double neck edge do the following: Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.11.2021
SLEEVE:...Decrease like this every 8-6-4-3-2½-2½ cm 5-6-8-11-11-12 times in total...
Updated online: 04.11.2021
NECK EDGE:... Work until rib measures 12 cm in total. Continue with circular needle size 5 mm.

Diagram

symbols = raspberry
symbols = pearl grey
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Sophie wrote:

Pour la taille m au niveau du diagramme a la 12 ème ligne on fait 10 M 1 jeté et 1M. Mais a la fin cela ne tombe pas juste. Y aurait il une erreur?

30.10.2023 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sophie, au 12ème rang de A.1, taille M, vous avez 10 mailles dans chaque A.1 (les 6 mailles du départ + les 4 augmentations précédentes) et vous tricotez (9 mailles endroit, 1 jeté, 1 m endroit) et vous répétez de (à) tout le tour, vous avez désormais 11 mailles dans chaque A.1. Bon tricot!

30.10.2023 - 18:17

country flag Barbara wrote:

Jak dodać oczka w żakardzie na okrągło, żeby nie było widoczne zwiększenie?

30.08.2023 - 10:10

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Basiu, w tym wzorze dodawanie oczek jest wykonywane w rzędach kolorem malinowym. Dodawanie oczek w schemacie żakardowym jest także wykonywane kolorem malinowym - aby dodać oczko należy wykonać 1 narzut między 2 oczkami, a w następnym okrążeniu przerobić oczko przekręcone w miejscu narzutu na prawo, aby uniknąć dziur. Pozdrawiam!

30.08.2023 - 15:04

country flag Barbara wrote:

Jak obliczyć oczka w wykończeniu dekoltu? Musi być przejście z 88 oczek na 114 (rozm. L). Co ile zrobić zwiększenie?

06.03.2023 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Basiu, 88:26 = 3,3, tzn. będziesz dodawać 1 oczko na przemian co 3 i 4 oczka (mniej więcej oczywiście). Zawsze patrz w opisie DODAWANIE OCZEK (w regularnych odstępach/równomiernie) - trzeba to tylko zawsze zastosować do swojego rozmiaru. Pozdrawiamy!

06.03.2023 - 12:55

country flag Chacha wrote:

Bonjour, il y a une erreur sur le diagramme A1 taille L.XL.XXL au rang 15 vous indiquez qu’il faut tricoter à l’endroit 10mailles, faire une augmentation, tricoter 1maille de plus à l’endroit. Puis répéter ce motif 19 fois. Ceci n’est pas possible pour retrouver le nombre de maille indiqué. Il ne faut pas tricoter 1maille après l’augmentation. Comme pour les autres augmentations du model, l’augmentation se fait en fin de motif. (10M tricotés, 1M augmenté X19).

25.09.2022 - 12:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chacha, au 15ème rang augmentez ainsi: (tricotez 10 mailles endroit, 1 jeté, 1 maille endroit) répétez de (à) tout le tour; vous augmentez 1 maille par motif comme avant, m ais effectivement, pas à la fin du motif, vous aurez ainsi 11 mailles entre chaque augmentation. Bon tricot!

26.09.2022 - 11:53

country flag De Man wrote:

Moet je de mouwen minderen of niet

21.12.2021 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dag De Man,

Je mindert inderdaad midden onder de mouw vanaf 3 cm waar het werk gescheiden is. Bij de paragraaf MOUW staat aangegeven hoeveel je moet minderen in iedere maat.

23.12.2021 - 15:08

country flag Monica Gustavsson wrote:

Hej. Frågan är inte specifik för det här mönstret - hoppas det går bra ändå. Ser i mönstret att det finns en notering om att en uppdatering är gjord. Jag saknar/kan inte hitta den lista ni hade på er förra hemsida där alla uppdateringar kunde ses under en flik och inte endast vid varje mönster. Om den inte finns (och jag bara inte kan hitta den) önskar jag att den tas tillbaka. Adventshälsningar Monica

07.12.2021 - 02:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Monica, tak for dit synspunkt, vi tager det med os i kommende opdateringer! God Jul :)

09.12.2021 - 09:16

country flag De Man wrote:

Volgens mij zit een fout in het patroon als je harten gebreid is heb je 336 steken dat klopt toch niet lees het patroon eens goed door

25.11.2021 - 10:04

country flag De Man wrote:

Ik begrijp het niet hoe veel steken moet je hebben als je de harten gebreid hebt ik heb ook 8keer verdeeld Over de naald

20.11.2021 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag De Man,

Dit wordt aangegeven in het patroon onder 'PAS'; Als A.1 in de hoogte is gebreid, zijn er 224-256-272-304-320-336 steken op de naald.

23.11.2021 - 12:27

country flag De Ma wrote:

I nog steeds intuïtie edie harten ik heb niemand die mij kan helpe

06.11.2021 - 22:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag De Ma,

Misschien is het mogelijk dat je bij de winkel langs gaat waar je het garen hebt gekocht? Iemand kan dan met je meekijken, vaak helpt dat erg. Hoop dat het lukt!

11.11.2021 - 07:47

country flag De Man wrote:

Ik kom er niet uit het gaat elke keer verkeerd wat moet ik doen

05.11.2021 - 10:16