DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Rosé Bubbles Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. The piece is worked top down with raglan and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 227-23
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-729
Yarn group E or C + C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
650-750-800-900-950-1050 g colour 13, powder

Or use:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
450-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 15, mauve

DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 630: 5-5-6-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.20 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
Increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of 1 knitted stitch (raglan-line), in each transition from body to sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the row).
On the next row (wrong side) work the yarn overs as follows:
BEFORE RAGLAN-LINE:
Purl in the back loop. No hole.
AFTER RAGLAN-LINE:
Slip the yarn over from the left needle and put it back the other way (insert the left needle from the back when placing it back on the needle). Purl in the front loop. No hole.
Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch on the sleeves and in pattern on the front/back pieces.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 111 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 9.4. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 9th stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 9 cm. Then work the other 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-8-8½-8½-9 cm between each one.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------


JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck, yoke and body are worked with circular needle, back and forth from mid-front. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 74-74-78-78-82-82 stitches (including 4 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Snow or DROPS Wish. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 12 cm. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band. Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you decrease 3 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease on the bands) = 71-71-75-75-79-79 stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm. Insert 1 marker, THE YOKE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Work as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-line), 1 yarn over, knit 8-8-10-10-12-12, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-line), 1 yarn over, work A.2, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-line), 1 yarn over, knit 8-8-10-10-12-12, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-line), 1 yarn over, work A.3 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished.
Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 11-14-16-19-21-23 times (see arrow for your size in A.1, A.2 and A.3). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

After the last increase there are 159-183-203-227-247-263 stitches. Continue the pattern without further increases until the yoke measures 21-23-24-26-28-31 cm from the marker.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side:
Work 27-30-32-35-37-39 as before (= front piece), place the next 30-36-42-48-54-58 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve), purl 45-51-55-61-65-69 (= back piece), place the next 30-36-42-48-54-58 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 27-30-32-35-37-39 stitches as before (= front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 111-123-131-147-155-167 stitches. Start on the rows in A.4 - A.6 which match the stitches from A.1 - A.3 and work as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.4, A.5 is worked 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.6, knit 2-8-12-20-0-6, A.4, A.5 is worked 3-3-3-3-5-5 times, A.6, knit 2-8-12-20-0-6, A.4, A.5 is worked 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.6 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until the body measures 23-23-24-24-23-22 cm from the division. There is 8 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length. To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 11-15-15-15-15-15 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 122-138-146-162-170-182 stitches. Change to circular needle 7 and work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 2 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 30-36-42-48-54-58 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 36-42-48-56-62-68 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 15-8-8-4-3½-3 cm a total of 2-3-4-6-7-8 times = 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 30-29-29-27-27-26 cm from the division. There is approx. 8 cm left; try the jacket on and work to desired length – NOTE! Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 38-37-37-35-35-34 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way..

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = bobble: knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 3 stitches), work 5 rows stocking stitch over these stitches, on row 6 knit all 3 stitches together = 1 stitch.
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 227-23

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Dominika wrote:

Witam! Nie rozumiem kiedy dokładnie mam przejść z wzorów A1-A3 do wzorów A4-A6. Robię sweter w rozmiarze S po dodaniu 11 razy oczek na reglan utknęłam w miejscu długość mojej robótki to 18 cm więc muszę jeszcze 3 cm dorobić żeby wykonać podział na przód , tył i rękawy. Nie mam pojęcia jakie schematy mam dalej przerabiać ,schematy A1-A3 są z oczkami dodawanymi a A4 A6 są schematami z liczbą dodanych oczek po podziale robótki . Pierwszy raz mam problem z waszym wzorem

10.02.2024 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Dominiko, dalej przerabiasz jak wcześniej, jeszcze przez 3 cm, ale już nie dodajesz oczka na reglany. Trzymaj się dalej schematów A1-A.3, a pozostałe oczka przerabiaj dżersejem. Następnie przejdź do części TYŁ & PRZODY i do rzędu schematów A.4 - A.6 będącego kontynuacją schematów A.1 - A.3 i dalej przerabiaj zgodnie z opisem. Pozdrawiamy!

13.02.2024 - 09:58

country flag Eleonora wrote:

Buongiorno, dopo lo sprone con la taglia M ottengo 183 maglie, arrivo a 23 cm e mi presto a fare il ferro a rovescio...domanda: 30 maglie davanti dx, 36 maglie in sospeso, avvio 6 maglie...ma le 6 maglie le avvio attaccate alle 36 maglie sospese della manica o le avvio all'inizio delle 51 del dietro? e le successive 6 maglie le attacco alle 36 maglie della manica sospese o all'inizio delle 30 maglie davanti sx?

13.12.2023 - 15:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Eleonora, deve lavorare le 30 maglie del davanti, mettere in sospeso 36 maglie (manica) senza lavorarle, avviare le 6 maglie che si congiungono alle 51 maglie del dietro. Le 6 maglie avviate a ogni lato costituiscono il sottomanica, le 36 maglie in sospeso saranno le maniche che verranno lavorate in seguito. Buon lavoro!

19.12.2023 - 09:02

country flag Patrizia wrote:

DROPS Design answered: Buonasera Patrizia, deve procedere lavorando i diagrammi dove indicato e a diritto le maglie tra i diagrammi, mantenendo i bordi a maglia legaccio. Buon lavoro! 04.12.2023 - 17:16 ok...il problema è che andando avanti con il diagramma dalla taglia M in poi io ho sempre 25 maglie e sul diagramma sono di più...non facendo più aumenti dove le prendo quelle maglie? grazie

04.12.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Patrizia, deve continuare a lavorare il motivo sulle maglie rimaste fino alla lunghezza richiesta. Buon lavoro!

30.12.2023 - 11:31

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo la taglia M e quando arrivo alla fine degli aumenti dello sprone (14 aumenti) ottengo 183 m. totali...come continuo con gli schemi A1 A2 e A3...non mi ritrovo con il nr di maglie che ho sui ferri e quelle invece che dovrei fare come da schemi...dove sbaglio? come devo procedere? Grazie.

02.12.2023 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, deve procedere lavorando i diagrammi dove indicato e a diritto le maglie tra i diagrammi, mantenendo i bordi a maglia legaccio. Buon lavoro!

04.12.2023 - 17:16

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buonasera questa la vostra risposta alla mia richiesta: "Buonasera Patrizia, le noccioline sono lavorate in ferri separati, dove non ci sono altre diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!" grazieeee...ma non c'è scritto da nessuna parte che le noccioline sono da fare su ferri a parte...non so come procedere...faccio a parte...da dove parto con altri ferri e poi dove le collego? giratemi link con video per favore...

27.11.2023 - 20:15

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, la nocciolina è lavorata nello stesso momento sui ferri indicati. Provi a vedere se questo video può esserle di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

30.11.2023 - 22:54

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno, ho un problema...sullo schema A2, come anche su quello A1 e A3, all'altezza della linea "L" c'è sia la chiusura alla 6° riga della nocciolina sia le 2 maglie insieme a dritto...sullo stesso punto...come si procede? Grazie

24.11.2023 - 11:09

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, le noccioline sono lavorate in ferri separati, dove non ci sono altre diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!

26.11.2023 - 23:25

country flag Bianca Irina wrote:

Hello! I have an unclarity regarding the yoke after I finish with the raglan increase. I need to continue working until my yoke is longer, but I don’t know what pattern to follow. If I knit for measure S, should I continue with A.1, A.2 and A.3, but ignoring the extra stitches that are for higher measures? Thank you!

20.10.2023 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bianca, if you have the correct number of stitches after the raglan increases and you need to reach the length for the yoke you continue working A.1, A.2 and A.3 but don't make the increases outside of the charts; these stitches that are outside of the charts will be worked in stocking stitch. Happy knitting!

23.10.2023 - 00:04

country flag Rebecca wrote:

Hi on the rows with the black triangle = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches. Do you the increase the two stitches back on the purl row? Thank you

29.05.2023 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Rebecca, The increases are on the same row - the yarn overs before and after the black triangle, so the stitch count remains the same. Happy knitting!

30.05.2023 - 06:54

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Grazie per la risposta...quindi dove ci sono le 8 maglie (per la taglia M) per le maniche con gettato prima e dopo le maglie, ogni 2 giri aumento di 2....8/10/12/14/16...etc etc? se però è così sulla spiegazione non c'è scritto...o sbaglio?

02.01.2023 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, nella spiegazione viene riportato il giro di setup, poi si prosegue con la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

02.01.2023 - 21:22

country flag Patrizia wrote:

Buongiorno...RAGLAN...prima della linea del raglan...(si intende prima della linea del raglan dal dritto o dal rovescio?)...lavorare a rovescio semplicemente vuol dire creare un buco...perché dice nessun buco?

30.12.2022 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Patrizia, in quel punto viene indicato come lavorare i gettati sul rovescio del lavoro, e viene spiegato che prima della linea del raglan i gettati vanno lavorati a rovescio ritorto, cioè nel filo dietro della maglia invece di quello davanti, in modo che non si creino buchi. Buon lavoro!

01.01.2023 - 21:30