DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Frosted Cranberries

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke. Size XS – XXL.

DROPS 228-28
DROPS design: Pattern z-936
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 9024, dark blush
250-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 9020, light pearl grey

DROPS BUTTON, Mocha NO 623: 6-6-6-7-7-7 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each colour = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.65 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 132 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 30.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 30th and 31st stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 approx. 9½-9½-10-9-9-9 cm between each buttonhole.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 92-104-112-112-116-120 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with a strand of each colour in DROPS Alpaca (= 2 strands).
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work until rib measures 4 cm. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Insert 1 marker at beginning of row mid front, measure yoke from this marker! Continue with rib. On next row from right side increase 1 stitch in all purl sections, increase by making a yarn over at the beginning of all purl sections = 112-127-137-137-142-147 stitches. On next row (= wrong side) knit yarn overs twisted, work the remaining stitches as before. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 3. When piece measures 3 cm from marker, and next row is from right side, increase 1 stitch in all purl sections, increase by making a yarn over at the end of all purl sections = 132-150-162-162-168-174 stitches. On next row (= wrong side) knit yarn overs twisted, work the remaining stitches as before. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 4. Work until piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm from marker at the front. Rib measures 9-9-9-10-10-10 cm from cast-on edge.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 4-4-1-0-2-4 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 136-154-163-162-170-178 stitches. Purl 1 row (continue bands in garter stitch). Now work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 126-144-153-152-160-168 stitches (= 14-16-17-19-20-21 repetitions of 9-9-9-8-8-8 stitches), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. NOTE: Choose diagram for your size! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 234-266-282-314-330-346 stitches on needle. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 8-4-0-0-4-8 stitches evenly = 242-270-282-314-334-354 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and in garter stitch over bands until piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from marker.

Now divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows:
Work 39-44-45-49-54-58 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 68-78-80-88-98-106 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the remaining 39-44-45-49-54-58 stitches (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 158-178-186-202-226-246 stitches. Continue with one strand of each colour, stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
Work until piece measures 23 cm in all sizes. 12 cm remain until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length. Now increase stitches to stop the rib from contracting. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 34-34-38-42-46-50 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 192-212-224-244-272-296 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row – from wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, purl 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib like this for 12 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jacket measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work in stocking stitch with a strand of each yarn in the round (= 2 strands).
When sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-5-3-2½-2-2 cm 4-5-7-10-10-11 times in total = 46-48-50-52-54-56 stitches. Continue without decreases until sleeve measures 30-28-28-27-26-24 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke). 12 cm remain until finished measurements. Try the jacket and work to desired length. Knit 1 round while increasing 6-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 12 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-40-39-38-36 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Rita wrote:

Non riesco a capire le misure che compaiono sul modello in fondo alle spiegazioni. A cosa sono riferiti ? Grazie

13.12.2023 - 09:40

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Rita, le misure dello schema in fondo alla pagina si riferiscono alle misure finali del modello dopo il bloccaggio. Buon lavoro!

19.12.2023 - 08:52

country flag Ilonka wrote:

Mijn vraag betreft het A1 diagram. In het patroon staat dat alle meerderingen aan de goede kant gemaakt worden. Maar de 2e keer meerderen is volgens mij in een averechte toer, klopt dat? En klopt het dat je ook een meerdering maakt aan het eind, dus na de laatste steek die voor de voorbies zit? Alvast bedankt.

31.10.2023 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ilonka,

De minderingen hoeven niet perse aan de goede kant gemaakt te worden. Maar bij het telpatroon staat het inderdaad niet goed aangegeven. Als je een meerdering op de verkeerde kant maakt, kun je deze aan de goede kant gedraaid recht breien (i.p.v. gedraaid averecht).

01.11.2023 - 19:30

country flag Line Villeneuve wrote:

Pour lire le diagramme des augmentations, à la fin d'un rang pair, on met une augmentation à la fin du rang. Que dois-je comprendre quand je fais des augmentations tout le rang? Dois-je les faire sur l'envers, soit le rang suivant?

29.03.2023 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villeneuve, pour augmenter, faites le jeté comme indiqué dans le diagramme: soit au début soit à la fin de chaque A.1. Les augmentations se font toujours sur l'endroit (sur l'envers, tricotez les jetés torse à l'envers pour éviter un trou). Bon tricot!

29.03.2023 - 10:13

country flag Line Villeneuve wrote:

Modèle 228-28. Je fais l'empiècement et je ne comprends pas le diagramme A-1 parce que je suis à 163 mailles et quand j'aurai fini l'empiècement, j aurai 282 mailles. (17 motifs de 9 mailles) Comment arriver à ce nombre? Sur le diagramme, je dois faire 7 séquences de 9 mailles. (7x9=63) 63 mailles + 163 = 226 et je dois arriver à 282?? Merci de votre collaboration!!

28.03.2023 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villeneuve, en taille M vous commencez par 163 m et tricotez: 5 m point mousse, 17x les 9 m de A.1 (=153m) et 5 m point mousse. Vous augmentez en faisant 1 jeté comme le montre le diagramme = vous avez 16 m dans chaque A.1 quand le diagramme est terminé, soit: 5 m + 17x16 = 272 + 5 m = 282 mailles. Bon tricot!

29.03.2023 - 09:58

country flag Line Villeneuve wrote:

Je tricote le modèle drops 228-28. Après avoir monté les mailles on me dit de tricoter un rang envers sur l'envers qu'est-ce que ça veut dire? Après avoir monté les mailles, je suis sur l'endroit et non envers...

22.03.2023 - 18:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Villeneuve, pour ce modèle, on veut que le 1er rang après le montage soit sur l'envers de l'ouvrage pour que avoir le côté avec les petits fils (méthode continental) soit l'endroit, on doit donc tricoter d'abord 1 rang sur l'envers, et le rang suivant se fera alors sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

23.03.2023 - 09:43

country flag Danielle Guill wrote:

In the Neck Edge instructions it says "Work until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above." In those instructions it says "Decrease first buttonhole when piece measures approx. 1 cm = 3/8". Can I get clarification on which measurement will be the correct placement (1 1/2" or 3/8") of the first buttonhole? I want to be sure that the rest of my buttonholes align correctly.

24.09.2022 - 21:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Danielle, work the first buttonhole when the garment measures 4 cm. Happy knitting!

25.09.2022 - 20:19

country flag Ruth Couldridge wrote:

Do I use the diagram from the top down or bottom up

31.07.2022 - 15:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, we read the diagrams from bottom up and right to left. You can find a lesson on how to read a knitting diagram here. Happy Knitting!

31.07.2022 - 15:53

country flag Regine Karg wrote:

Guten Abend, ich verstehe in der Anleitung nicht welche Wolle ich nehmen kann. Was heißt hier wieder das A+A? Nehme ich hier zwei Farben, die ich dann zusammenstricke? Dunkel plush und hell perlgrau? Also für Größe M 350g je Farbe? Nehme ich dagegen die Garngruppe C benötige ich nur insgesamt 350g? Vielen Dank Regine Karg

21.03.2022 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Karg, dieses Modell wird mit 2 Fäden der Garngruppe A (= Alpaca) gestrickt, dh doppelfädig. Hier brauchen Sie in M je 350 g = 7 Knäuel Alpaca in jede der beiden Farben (insgesamt 700 g Alpaca). Dann stricken Sie mit 2 Fäden. Am besten benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner, so können Sie je nach dem gewüsnschten Garn der Garngruppe C kalkulieren lassen, wieviel Sie dann brauchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.03.2022 - 10:11