DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 143.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

December Bloom Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, lace pattern, ribbed edges and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 228-45
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-137
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 9021, brick red

Or use:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 82, maroon

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 143.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase by making 1 yarn over after every other purled section. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 186 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 12 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 17) = 10.2. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 10th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. All rows in the pattern are shown from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 2-2-3-2-2-3 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8½-9-9-8-8½-8½ cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 113-117-121-129-133-137 stitches (including 6 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and DROPS Lima or DROPS Karisma.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side).
Then work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): 6 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted, 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib measures 3-3-3-3-4-4 cm, increase every other purl-1 (seen from the right side) to purl-2 – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 138-143-148-158-163-168 stitches.
When the rib measures 6-6-6-7-8-8 cm, increase the remaining purl-1 to purl-2 = 163-169-175-187-193-199 stitches.
When the rib measures 9-9-9-11-12-12 cm, increase every other purl-2 to purl-3 = 188-195-202-216-223-230 stitches.
Continue working until the rib measures 10-10-10-12-13-13 cm – finish after a row from the wrong side.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Start from the right side and work 4 rows of stocking stitch with 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side – AT THE SAME TIME on row 3 (right side), increase 15-18-21-25-30-35 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 203-213-223-241-253-265 stitches.
After the 4 rows, work as follows from the right side:
6 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 7 stitches left (= 19-20-21-19-20-21 repeats of 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches), work the first stitch in A.1 so the pattern is symmetrical and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed in height there are 298-313-328-355-373-391 stitches and the piece measures approx. 19-19-19-23-24-24 cm from the cast-on edge.

Continue with stocking stitch and 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 18-24-30-32-34-40 stitches evenly spaced = 316-337-358-387-407-431 stitches.
When the piece measures 21-21-21-25-26-26 cm, increase 13-16-19-22-25-28 stitches evenly spaced = 329-353-377-409-432-459 stitches. The increases are finished in S, M and L – go to ALL SIZES.

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue working until the piece measures 27-28-29 cm. On the next row from the right side increase 8-9-14 stitches evenly spaced = 417-441-473 stitches. The increases are finished in XL, XXL and XXXL – go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 329-353-377-417-441-473 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 6 band stitches in garter stitch on each side (but without further increases) until the piece measures 23-25-27-29-31-33 cm from the cast-on edge.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work 52-56-59-65-70-76 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-70-76-84-86-90 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 93-101-107-119-129-141 stitches (= back piece), place the next 66-70-76-84-86-90 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 52-56-59-65-70-76 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 209-225-241-265-289-313 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 55-59-63-69-75-81 stitches in from each side. There are 99-107-115-127-139-151 stitches between the threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Work stocking stitch with 6 band stitches on each side, back and forth for 17 cm. There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length. Try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Now divide for the split in each side. Keep the first 55-59-63-69-75-81 stitches from the left front piece on the needle, place the other stitches on a thread or extra needle.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
= 55-59-63-69-75-81 stitches. To avoid the following rib being tight, stitches are increased as described below.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 17-17-19-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = 72-76-82-90-98-106 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from the side as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit twisted over knit twisted and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jacket measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the shoulder down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 55-59-63-69-75-81 stitches from the right front piece on circular needle size 4 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 17-17-19-21-23-25 stitches evenly spaced = 72-76-82-90-98-106 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from mid-front as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 6 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit twisted over knit twisted and purl over purl 1

BACK PIECE:
Place the remaining 99-107-115-127-139-151 stitches onto circular needle size 4 mm.
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 30-32-34-38-42-46 stitches evenly spaced = 129-139-149-165-181-197 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1 twisted, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1 twisted, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 twisted and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the rib measures 6 cm. Cast off from the right side with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit twisted over knit twisted and purl over purl.

SLEEVES:
Place the 66-70-76-84-86-90 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-76-84-92-96-100 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 11-12-14-18-19-20 times = 50-52-56-56-58-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-37-36-34-32-31 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length. Try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you increase 2-4-2-4-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-58-60-62-66 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit twisted over knit twisted and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-42-40-38-37 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.11.2021
Correction: 2 symbols has been removed, they are not used in the diagrams.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Gunn M Mathiassen wrote:

17 cm fra deling til armer og bol,og til vrangbord nede, kan det være rett. Jakken ser mye sidere ut på bildet. !

05.04.2022 - 21:22

country flag Raffaella wrote:

Buongiorno scusate quando lo schema dice “ Aumentare facendo 1 gettato dopo ogni sezione a rovescio, a sezioni alterne” sezioni alterne intende 1 aumento ogni ferro non più di uno giusto? Grazie

09.03.2022 - 08:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Raffaella, deve aumentare in una sezione a rovescio, saltare gli aumenti in quella successiva e aumentare in quella ancora dopo, e così via. Buon lavoro!

10.03.2022 - 23:15

country flag Deborah wrote:

Buongiorno scusate ho un problema col campione. Ho provato con i ferri da 3 ma non raggiungo i 10 cm montando 21 maglie dove sbaglio? scusate sono una principiante

04.03.2022 - 16:58

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Debora, deve rifare il campione con il numero di ferri che le permette di raggiungere le indicazioni. Buon lavoro!

04.03.2022 - 17:39

country flag Segalen wrote:

Bonsoir. A l empiècement comment on obtient 198 mailles pour la taille S. On continue à augmenter 15 mailles à intervalles réguliers. merci pour votre réponse.

21.01.2022 - 21:39

country flag Segalen wrote:

Bonsoir. A l empiècement comment on obtient 198 mailles pour la taille S. On continue à augmenter 15 mailles à intervalles réguliers. merci pour votre réponse.

21.01.2022 - 21:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Segalen, vous pensiez 298 je présume? on va augmenter comme indiqué dans A.1 autrement dit, on commence A.1 sur 10 mailles et, on augmente 2 m au 9ème rang, 1 m au 15ème rang et 2 m au 21ème rang; quand A.1 est terminé, vous avez: 6 m de bordure devant, 19 fois A.1 (= 19x15=285), la 1ère m de A.1 et 6 m de bordure devant soit: 298 m. Bon tricot!

24.01.2022 - 08:29

country flag Myra wrote:

How many yards or meters is in each skein of Drops Karisma (yarn group B)? Thank you.

19.01.2022 - 08:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Myra, Divide the total weight of yarn required for your size by 50 g (= 1 ball Karisma) and multiply it by the yardage/meterage of one ball - read more about DROPS Karisma here and find the list of DROPS stores shipping worldwide here. Happy knitting!

19.01.2022 - 08:59

country flag Yaşar wrote:

I love knit but I need pattern in my language❤️Do you think about Turkish pattern

24.11.2021 - 06:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yasar, thank you very much much for your request, maybe one of our DROPS store could help you in between?

24.11.2021 - 07:58

country flag Welada Albazzaz wrote:

Thank you so much!

13.11.2021 - 10:13

country flag Welada Albazzaz wrote:

Hi.. im knitting december bloom jacket.. and in the diagram explanation there are two symbols for k2tog and ssk but in the diagram these symbols do not exist.. is there a mistake in the diagram? thank a lot

13.11.2021 - 01:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Welada, the diagram is just fine, the two symbols are just two eaxtra, which usually standard in these patterns. Happy Stitching!

13.11.2021 - 07:24

country flag Riikka wrote:

Har nu försökt skriva ut detta mönster December Bloom Jacket by DROPS Design flera gånger, men all text kommer inte med, verkar som om den är inlagd liggande, men då accepterar inte min skrivare den. Finns det något annat sätt att få ut mönstret, utan att behöva ha med dator/platta när man stickar.

25.10.2021 - 08:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Riikka. Har du trykket på "Skriv ut" ikonen eller hurtigtast Ctrl+P? Bruk "Skriv ut" ikonet og da vil du se at det er stående, men du kan ha andre innstillinger på din printer. Du kan evnt merke alt på siden (Ctrl+A) og så lime det inn i et word dok, men husk da å slette det du ikke behøver å ha med (f.eks alle bildene, hvilken video, reklame osv). mvh DROPS Design

25.10.2021 - 11:26