DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fresh Lime

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with double neck. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

DROPS Children 41-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-037-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 12, moss green

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------


INCREASE TIP:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes, then the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up as far as the sleeve cap, then back and forth. The neck is worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 112-120-128-132-140-148 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Knit 1 round.
Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Work stocking stitch.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 19-21-24-27-30-31 cm, cast off for the armholes on the next round as follows:
Cast off the first 6 stitches, knit 50-54-58-60-64-68 (= front piece), cast off 6 stitches and knit the last 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches (= back piece). The front and back pieces are finished separately:

BACK PIECE:
Continue with stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time on each side = 44-48-52-54-58-62 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-34-38-42-46-48 cm, cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately (= 13-14-15-15-16-17 stitches on each shoulder).
Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm (= 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the bottom of the armhole), cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 29-31-35-38-42-43 cm = 44-48-52-54-58-62 stitches.
Place the middle 14-16-18-18-20-22 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately (= 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches on each shoulder).
Cast off on each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-2-2 times = 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm (= 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the bottom of the armhole), cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work stocking stitch. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid-under the sleeve. When the sleeve measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 2-3-3½-4-4-4½ cm a total of 7-7-7-7-8-8 times = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 24-28-32-35-39-42 cm, cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread and work the sleeve cap back and forth
Cast off at the beginning of each row as follows:
2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-2 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 28-33-37-41-45-49 cm, 3 stitches 1 time on each side, then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 29-34-38-42-46-50 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves.

NECK:
Start at one shoulder seam and knit up 48 to 74 stitches (including the stitches on the thread and stitch-number divisible by 2) around the neck with circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 41-12

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (8)

country flag Isabelle Poinsot wrote:

Le diagramme me semble de taille adulte car les mensurations ne correspondent pas à celles indiquées dans le texte.

08.02.2024 - 22:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Poinsot, les mesures sont les mêmes dans les explications et dans le schéma, vous avez bien 4 cm de côtes au début, 19-21-24-27-30-31 cm avant les emmanchures et 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm de hauteur totale, soit 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm de hauteur d'emmanchures. Bon tricot!

20.02.2024 - 09:35

country flag Hilde wrote:

Wat word er bedoeld bij het stukje over achterpand, met ‘tegelijkertijd’?? Tegelijkertijd afkanten…. Is het niet zo dat je heen breit en in het begin 2 steken afkant de pen uit breit en dan de pen terug ook in het begin 2 steken afkant en dan de pen uit breit?

26.08.2023 - 21:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Hilde,

Het woord tegelijkertijd is misschien een beetje overbodig. Je breit heen en weer over het achterpand in tricotsteek en je kant inderdaad aan het begin van elke naald af voor het armsgat.

27.08.2023 - 16:53

country flag Rita Maas wrote:

Waarom moet je bij het meerderen van de mouw een markeerdraad plaatsen ? Waarom niet aan elke kant van de naald steeds een steek meerderen ?

07.05.2023 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rita,

De mouw wordt in de rondte gebreid en daardoor zou je op een gegeven moment niet meer goed kunnen zien waar het midden onder van de mouw is. Door een markeerdraad te plaatsen en deze mee te laten lopen tijdens het breien, is dat wel duidelijk en weet je precies waar je moet meerderen.

08.05.2023 - 20:44

country flag Patty Walk wrote:

On the sleeve bind offs do you bind off 3 stitches or are the 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1 time the three bind off stitches?

20.01.2023 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Walk, you first cast off 3 sts on each side of marker thread, then 2 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows (2 sts 2 times on each side) and then 1 stich at the beg of next 2-4 rows (1-2 times on each side), then cast off 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows (both from RS and from WS) until piec measures the given measurement for the size (juste make sure you cast off the same number of sts on each side), then cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows and cast off the remaining sts. Happy knitting!

20.01.2023 - 16:39

country flag Leonor wrote:

Hola! Estoy tejiendo este patrón y empecé a tejer en redondo el cuerpo desde abajo hacia arriba como dice en las indicaciones. Pero no entiendo la parte donde dice que se cierran puntos para hacer por separado el delantero de la espalda ¿cierro puntos desde el mismo tejido en redondo? O son dos piezas? No queda claro desde donde se empieza a cerrar ya que es un tejido circular. Gracias

24.01.2022 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Leonor, despues de cerrar para las sisas, tienes 2 piezas separadas, mira el video AQUI. De este momento tejes el delantero y la espalda por separado, de ida y vuelta. Saludos!

26.01.2022 - 08:24

country flag Elzaan Faria wrote:

I simply LOVE this pattern, it is the exact type I require as I'm not one for "fashiony" attire, but I need it in bigger sizes for my daughter and myself. Is this pattern available in adult sizes? I have browsed Jumpers for adults, but couldn't find one that looks like this. This jumper has a matching Cardigan (jacket) - I would greatly appreciate that one in adult sizes too, please? Thank you for a really wonderful website!

27.12.2021 - 10:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elzaan, we don't make personalized patterns. We have an ample collection of women jumpers starting from size XS, where you will probably find something similar or at least of your liking. Happy knitting!

31.12.2021 - 19:54

country flag Ursula wrote:

Dankeschön :-)

09.11.2021 - 00:27

country flag Ursula wrote:

Wo ist das Diagramm, es fehlt immer noch?

07.11.2021 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ursula, wir werden es so schnell wie möglich beheben

07.11.2021 - 17:24