DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Fresh Lime Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with double neck. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

DROPS Children 41-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-043-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
-----------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour 12, moss green

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NR 521: 5 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes when the piece measures:
2 years: 4, 10, 16, 22 and 28 cm
3/4 years: 4, 11, 18, 24 and 30 cm
5/6 years: 4, 12, 20, 27 and 34 cm
7/8 years: 5, 13, 21, 29 and 37 cm
9/10 years: 5, 14, 23, 32 and 41 cm
11/12 years: 5, 15, 24, 33 and 42 cm

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes, then divided and the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up as far as the sleeve cap, then back and forth. The neck is worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 123-131-139-143-151-159 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Air.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Then work rib from the right side as follows:
5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm, change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Continue with stocking stitch and garter stitch, decreasing 1 stitch on the first row (avoid decreasing on the bands) = 122-130-138-142-150-158 stitches.
Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 19-21-24-27-30-31 cm, cast off for the armholes on the next row as follows: Work 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches, cast off 6 stitches, work 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches, cast off 6 stitches and work the last 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches. The front and back pieces are finished separately. Place the first and last 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches on a thread and work the 50-54-58-60-64-68 stitches on the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Continue with stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time on each side = 44-48-52-54-58-62 stitches.
When the piece measures 31-34-38-42-46-48 cm, cast off the middle 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately (= 13-14-15-15-16-17 stitches on each shoulder).
Cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm (= 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the bottom of the armhole), cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the first 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches back on circular needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid-front. Cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 27-29-31-32-34-36 stitches. When the piece measures 29-31-35-38-42-43 cm, place the 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck. Then cast off stitches for the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-2-2 times = 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm (= 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the bottom of the armhole), cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Place the last 30-32-34-35-37-39 stitches back on circular needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid-front. Cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1 time = 27-29-31-32-34-36 stitches. When the piece measures 29-31-35-38-42-43 cm, place the 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck. Then cast off stitches for the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-2-2 times = 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-50 cm (= 14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the bottom of the armhole), cast off.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and DROPS Air. Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work stocking stitch. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round = mid-under the sleeve. When the sleeve measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 2-3-3½-4-4-4½ cm a total of 7-7-7-7-8-8 times = 46-48-50-52-56-58 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 24-28-32-35-39-42 cm, cast off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread and work the sleeve cap back and forth.
Cast off at the beginning of each row as follows:
2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-2 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 28-33-37-41-45-49 cm, 3 stitches 1 time on each side, then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 29-34-38-42-46-50 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

NECK:
Start mid-front from the right side and knit up 57 to 83 stitches (including the stitches on the threads and stitch-number divisible by 2 + 1) around the neck, with circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, rib (purl 1, knit 1) until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew together the openings on each side with small stitches.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 41-11

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Gillian Stowell wrote:

The pattern I have chosen:- Pattern no ai-043-bn specifies Drops Mother of Pearl buttons Arched NR521 These do not appear to be available on the website - can you tell me what size these buttons are so I can choose an equivalent?

11.11.2023 - 11:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gillian, the buttons are: Arched (white) No. 521, size 15mm; you will find them more easily using the number. You can contact your usual Drops store to see if they are available or if they can order them for you. You can also choose other 15mm buttons for your work. Happy knitting!

12.11.2023 - 19:47

country flag Ingrid Theelen wrote:

Ja dankjewel voor het antwoord, maar ik begrijp het niet.. welke steken moet ik op de hulpdraad zetten? Die aan de kant van het armsgat of richting hals? Want het is een vrij rechte mouwinzet en vlgs de foto van het vestje is er maar aan één kant aannde haks verminderd. 🤔

05.11.2023 - 20:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Je kant aan de kant van de hals af, dus gelijk naast de steken die je daar voor op een hulpdraad hebt gezet.

15.11.2023 - 14:26

country flag Ingrid Theelen wrote:

Hallo...ik heb een vraag gesled zie 3 nov ... Kan ik hier antwoord op krijgen svp??

05.11.2023 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Je vraag is, als het goed is, inmiddels beantwoord.

05.11.2023 - 19:04

country flag Ingrid Theelen wrote:

Hallo, ik ben bij het voorpand al maar er staat na 32 cm hoogte (maat 3 jaar) , 13 steken richting middenvoor op een hulpdraad zetten en dan staat er afkanten aan de hals?? Maar die steken heb ik net vlgs patroon op een hulpdraad gezet?? Begrijp het niet ..gr.Ingrid

03.11.2023 - 21:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Dat klopt, je zet eerst steken op een hulpdraad, die laat je gewoon staan en daarnaast ga je ook nog steken afkanten aan de kant van de hals, dus vlak naast de steken die op de hulpdraad staan.

05.11.2023 - 18:51

country flag Annamaria wrote:

Ich stricke die Ärmel und ich verstehe folgendes nicht: Bei einer Länge von .... cm je 3 Machen beidseitig des Markierungsfadens abketten (=6 Maschen abgekettet an der unteren Ärmelmitte). Wenn ich in der Mitte des Ärmels abkette, muss ich doch die Seiten dann separat beenden und die seitlichen Abnahmen machen. Vielleicht würde ich es verstehen wenn ich die Zeichnung des Ärmels sehen würde. In Ihrem Schema kann man den Ärmel nicht einzeln sehen. Vielen Dank für Ihre Rückmeldung

28.09.2023 - 18:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annamaria, die Zunahmen werden beidseitig (jeweils 1 Masche am Ende + 1 Masche am Anfang der Runde) vom Markierungsfaden gestrickt, dann für das Ermetopp wird man die 3 letzten Maschen der Runde + die 3 ersten Maschen der Runde abgekettet, und dann wird die Arbeit in Hin- und Rückreihen gestrickt, gleichzeitig werden Maschen am Anfang jeder Reihe (Hin sowie Rückreihe) abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.10.2023 - 08:04

country flag Felicitas Stegemann wrote:

Hallo, sind die Maschenangaben bei der fresh Lime Jacket einschließlich Randmasche? Habe den Eindruck, dass die Knopfleiste dann zu schmal wird. Gruß F. Stegemann

07.08.2023 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Stegemann, es sind keine extra Randmaschen bei dieser Jacke, die 5 ersten und 5 letzten Maschen sind die Blendemaschen - die Blende misst dann ca 3 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.08.2023 - 09:02

country flag Denise Fontaine wrote:

Que veut dire pour épaules droite et gauche, patron drops design 41 11 veste enfant : Placer en attente les 12 mailles côté encolure. Rabattre ensuite pour l’encolure: 1 fois 2 mailles et q fois 1 maille = 12 mailles pour l’épaule. Il y a 15 mailles côté épaules. Donc je dois rabattre les mailles qui sont en attente côté épaules et je pars mes rabats entre l’encolure et l’épaule?

04.03.2023 - 22:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Fontaine, Quand le devant mesure 29 cm (première taille) tricotez les 12 premières mailles sur l'endroit (devant droit)/sur l'envers (devant gauche) et mettez-les en attente sur un fil, terminez le rang, tournez et tricotez le rang suivant. Rabattez ensuite au début de chaque rang à partir de l'encolure (début de rang sur l'endroit pour le devant droit/début de rang sur l'envers pour le devant gauche): 2 mailles 1 fois puis 1 maille, 1 fois. il va vous rester 12 mailles pour l'épaule. Vous reprendrez pour le col les 12 m en attente et vous relèverez des mailles le long des mailles rabattues + jusqu'à l'épaule. Bon tricot!

06.03.2023 - 09:29

country flag Christina Staepels wrote:

Beste, dit vestje wordt met een rondbreinaald gebreid, maar dit vind ik nogal moeilijk. Is het mogelijk om de beschrijving van deze mooie vest te krijgen, waarin ik rugpand en de voorpanden apart brei? Vriendelijke groeten

05.12.2021 - 20:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Christina

Dit patroon zou je inderdaad ook wel op rechte naalden kunnen breien. Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

07.12.2021 - 17:15

country flag Tonya Brash wrote:

Question about sleeves: "Cast off at the beginning of each row as follows: 2 stitches 2 times ..." So 2 stitches twice at the beginning of each row? (4 stitches each side?) "Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 28-33-37-41-45-49 cm" Is this 2 stitches repeatedly, or just the once each side and then keep knitting straight? Numbers of stitches after each decrease would be very helpful, if possible please. Thank you!

18.11.2021 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Brash, you cast off at the beginning of the row on each side 2 stitches 2 times, this means 2 stitches at the beginning of next 4 rows (= you will cast off a total of 4 sts on each side over 4 rows). Then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row on each side until sleeve measures the correct length, make just sure you cast off the same number of stitches on each side to get a symetrical sleeve cap. Happy knitting!

19.11.2021 - 07:14