DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 77.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Teal Crossover Sweater

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked with cables, relief-stitches and single neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 227-29
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-232
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-102-112-136-136-148 cm = 38 1/2"-40"-44"-53 1/2"-53 1/2"-58 3/8"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
850-950-1050-1150-1250-1350 g color 37, misty forest

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

CROCHET GAUGE:
16 double crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 77.35$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
When working back and forth.
At the beginning of each row of double crochets work 3 chain stitches, which do not replace the first double crochet but are worked in addition.
At the beginning of each row of single crochets work 1 chain stitch, which does not replace the first single crochet but is worked in addition.

When working in the round:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets work 3 chain stitches, which do not replace the first double crochet but are worked in addition. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

TIP FOR RELIEF-STITCHES:
When working the relief-pattern it is important that the relief-stitches are neither too tight nor too loose. If the stitches are too tight when working relief-triple-double crochets, work relief-quadruple-treble crochets instead. If the stitches are too loose, work relief-double-treble crochets instead.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 single crochet by working 2 single crochets together: Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook through the next stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops on hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops (1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets together:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Work 2 double crochets in the 3rd stitch on the round, work until there are 3 stitches left and work 2 double crochets in the next stitch (= 2 stitches increased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth. Relief-pattern is worked on the front and back pieces – read TIP FOR RELIEF-PATTERN.
The sleeves are worked in the round, turning after each round so the texture matches the body. The pieces are sewn together and the neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Work 84-87-96-105-114-123 chain stitches – read CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Turn and work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the other 80-83-92-101-110-119 chain stitches = 81-84-93-102-111-120 double crochets + 3 chain stitches to turn.
Now work as follows:
3 chain stitches – read CROCHET INFORMATION, A.1 to end of the row. Continue this pattern back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8" – adjust so the last row is a row of single crochets from the wrong side, and decrease 1-0-1-0-1-0 single crochets on this row – read DECREASE TIP = 80-84-92-102-110-120 single crochets + 1 chain stitch to turn.
Work from the right side as follows:
1 double crochet in each of the first 3-5-9-9-13-18 stitches, A.2 over the next 2 stitches, A.3 over the next 60-60-60-70-70-70 stitches (= 6-6-6-7-7-7 repeats of 10 stitches), A.4 over the next 12 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 3-5-9-9-13-18 stitches.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When the diagrams are finished in height, repeat A.X onwards.
When the piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17", bind off for the armholes as follows: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2-3-5-7-8-10 stitches, pattern as before over the next 76-78-82-88-94-100 stitches (2-3-5-7-8-10 stitches left), turn.
Sizes S, M and L go to ALL SIZES below.
Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL continue back and forth with pattern and decrease 1 double crochet on each side by working 2 double crochets together – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this each row (both from the right and wrong side) a total of 1-2-4 times.

ALL SIZES:
= 76-78-82-86-90-92 stitches.
Continue with pattern over the middle 74-74-74-84-84-84 stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the 1-2-4-1-3-4 stitches on each side.
When the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4", work as many stitches in the relief-pattern as there is room for, the other stitches are worked with double crochets. AT THE SAME TIME, work the next row as follows: Work the first 28-29-31-32-34-35 stitches, work 2 double crochets together = 25-26-28-29-31-32 stitches on the shoulder. Turn and work back from the wrong side. Cut the strand. The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26".
Skip the middle 24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches (= neck). Continue from the right side as follows: Work 2 double crochets together and work as before to the end of the row = 25-26-28-29-31-32 stitches on the shoulder. Turn and work back from the wrong side. Cut the strand. The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26".

FRONT PIECE:
Work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17", then bind off for the armholes in the same way as the back piece = 76-78-82-86-90-92 stitches.
Continue with pattern as before over the middle 74-74-74-84-84-84 stitches and 1 double crochet in each of the 1-2-4-1-3-4 stitches on each side.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm = 19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4", work as follows from the right side: As before over the first 27-28-30-31-33-34 stitches, decrease 2 double crochets by working 2 and 2 double crochets together over the next 4 stitches. Turn and work 2 and 2 double crochets together over the first 4 stitches, work pattern to the end of the row. Turn and work pattern until there are 4 stitches left and work 2 and 2 double crochets together over these 4 stitches = 25-26-28-29-31-32 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26". Cut the strand.
Skip the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches on the row = neck. Continue from the right side as follows: Decrease 2 double crochets by working 2 and 2 double crochets together over the first 4 stitches, work pattern as before to the end of the row = 27-28-30-31-33-34 stitches. Turn and work pattern until there are 4 stitches left and work 2 and 2 double crochets together over these 4 stitches. Turn and work 2 and 2 double crochets together over the first 4 stitches, work pattern to the end of the row = 25-26-28-29-31-32 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26". Cut the strand.

SLEEVES:
Work 52-55-55-58-58-61 chain stitches – remember CHAIN STITCH, with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked. Work 3 chain stitches, then 1 double crochet in each chain stitch, finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 51-54-54-57-57-60 double crochets + 3 chain stitches to turn.
Work A.1 in the round – turning after each round so you work alternately from the right and wrong side. The relief-stitches are always worked from the right side. Repeat the last 4 rows in the diagram until the piece measures 11 cm = 4 3/8". Continue with double crochets. When the piece measures 19-20-20-20-20-20 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8"-8"-8"-8", increase 2 double crochets under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 12-10½-5-4½-3-2½ cm = 4 3/4"-4 1/8"-2"-1 5/8"-1 1/8"-1" a total of 3-3-5-5-7-7 times = 57-60-64-67-71-74 double crochets. When the sleeve measures 47-45-45-43-42-39 cm = 18 1/2"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 1/4" work the sleeve cap back and forth to finished length as follows in the different sizes:

SIZES S, M AND L:
Continue working for 1-3-3 cm = 3/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8".

SIZES XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Continue working for 4-5-8 cm = 1 1/2"-2"-3 1/8". The next row is worked as follows:
Decrease 1-2-4 stitches by working 2 and 2 double crochets together over the first 2-4-8 stitches, work 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 2-4-8 stitches left, work 2 and 2 double crochets together over the last 2-4-8 stitches = 65-67-66 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
The sleeve measures approx. 48 cm = 19" in all sizes, with a split of approx 1-3-3-5-6-9 cm = 3/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-2"-2 3/8"-3 1/2" at the top. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together in each and every stitch. Sew the sleeve cap to the armhole, then sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.
Sew the side seams, inside the outermost stitch.

SINGLE NECK:
Start at one shoulder seam with hook size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 single crochet, * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8", 1 single crochet *, work from *-* a total of 24-24-24-28-28-28 times around the neck, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first single crochet on the round.
The next round is worked as follows: 3 chain stitches – remember CROCHET INFORMATION, work 3 double crochets around each of the 24-24-24-28-28-28 chain-spaces, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round = 72-72-72-84-84-84 stitches.
Work A.1 until the neck measures 11 cm = 4 3/8" from the chain-spaces, at the same time on the last round work 1 extra chain stitch after each 6th stitch (to avoid the neck being tight). Cut the strand, leaving a length of 50 cm = 19 3/4" for assembly.
Fold the neck single to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = row/round already worked! Start at arrow
symbols = start here
symbols = 1 RELIEF-TREBLE CROCHET (only worked from the right side): Work 1 treble crochet around 1 double crochet/relief-treble crochet from the previous row/round of double crochets/relief-stitches (do not work in the loops but around the double crochet/relief-stitch)
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch (worked from wrong side)
symbols = 1 double crochet in stitch (worked from right side)
symbols = 1 RELIEF-DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET (only worked from the right side): Work 1 double-treble crochet around 1 double crochet from the previous row of double crochets (do not work in the loops but around the double crochet)
The circle at the end of the relief-double-treble crochet shows which stitch to work around. Start of the line = row where this relief-double-treble crochet starts. On the first row in A.2 to A.4 work the 2 symbols diagonally over each other around the same double crochet
symbols = 1 RELIEF-TRIPLE-DOUBLE CROCHET (only worked from the right side): Work 1 triple-double crochet around 1 triple-double crochet from the previous row of relief-stitches (do not work in the loops but around the triple-double crochet). The black spot at the end of the symbol shows which stitch to work around. Start of the line = row where this relief-triple-double crochet starts.
symbols = 1 double crochet and 1 RELIEF-TRIPLE-DOUBLE CROCHET (only worked from the right side): Work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through. Work 1 triple-double crochet around 1 triple-double crochet from the previous row of relief-stitches (do not work in the loops but around the triple-double crochet), on the last yarn over pull the strand through all the loops on the hook. The black square at the end of the symbol shows which stitch to work around. Start of the line = row where this relief-triple-double crochet starts.
symbols = 1 RELIEF-TRIPLE-DOUBLE CROCHET and 1 double crochet (only worked from the right side): Work 1 triple-double crochet around 1 triple-double crochet from the previous row of relief-stitches (do not work in the loops but around the triple-double crochet), but wait with the last yarn over and pull-through. Work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, on the last yarn over pull the strand through all loops on the hook. The white square at the end of the symbol shows which stitch to work around. Start of line = row where this relief-triple-double crochet starts.
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Izabela wrote:

Witam. Robię sweterek teal crossover Sweater i utknęłam w "tył" i z powrotem 8 cm , dopasować,aby ostatni rząd był rzędem oczek ścisłych na lewej stronie robótki, i zamknąć 1-0-1-0-1-0 (nie wiem o co w tym chodzi? ) Pozdrawiam

06.01.2024 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Izo, ostatni przerobiony rząd powinien być rzędem oczek ścisłych w schemacie A.1 - w tym rzędzie zamknij 1 oczko w którymś miejscu, ale tylko jeśli przerabiasz rozmiary S, L lub XXL. Aby zamknąć 1 oczko ścisłe należy przerobić 2 oczka ścisłe razem (wbić szydełko w pierwsze oczko i przeciągnąć nitkę, wbić szydełko w następne oczko i przeciągnąć nitkę (= 3 pętelki na szydełku), wykonać 1 narzut i przeciągnąć go przez 3 pętelki (zamknięte 1 oczko). Pozdrawiamy!

07.01.2024 - 18:02

country flag Mien Herman wrote:

Voor een trui maat M zou ik 87 lossen moeten opzetten. Dit zijn er heel veel. En ik vind dit cijfer ook niet terug in het diagram. Wordt de trui verticaal of horizontaal gehaakt?

19.12.2023 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mien,

De trui wordt verticaal gehaakt. Als je proeflapje overeenkomt met de stekenverhouding in het patroon (16 stokjes = 10 cm), dan kun je gewoon het patroon volgen en 87 steken opzetten voor maat M. 87 gedeeld door 1,6 is 54 cm en dat komt ongeveer overeen met de afmetingen zoals aangegeven in de maattekening.

20.12.2023 - 19:07

country flag Mien Herman wrote:

Het patroon begint met telpatroon A.1 maar ik kan dit niet vinden. Het begint vanaf A.2

19.12.2023 - 08:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mien,

Telpatroon A.1 vindt je rechts onder de maattekening, onderaan het patroon.

20.12.2023 - 19:03

country flag Flower wrote:

Beste, ik haak maat XL en begrijp onderstaande uitleg niet:\r\n\"Haak de eerste 28-29-31-32-34-35 steken, haak 2 stokjes samen = 25-26-28-29-31-32 steken op de schouder. \"\r\n32 steken haken en 2 stokjes samen haken is toch samen 33 steken en niet 29? Hoe kom ik van 32 steken naar 29 steken door 2 stokjes samen te haken?\r\nBedankt!

27.12.2022 - 17:07

country flag Sylvia wrote:

Als ik tot bovenaan heb gehaakt tot en met ax en heb 2 stokjes gehaakt hoeveel stokjes moet ik dan haken en vanaf waar moet ik dan beginnen want het komt bij mij niet uit

23.12.2022 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sylvia,

Als je klaar bent met A.x in de hoogte, begin je opnieuw met A.x, dus niet de toer met de pijl, maar de toer daarboven.

22.03.2023 - 20:27

country flag Nete Poret wrote:

Hejsa, Jeg er lige begyndt på denne opskrift og der ser ud til at være en fejl med starten af borten på rygstykket. I A1 mønsteret er en 3-maske sekvens mens det på billederne ser ud til at være en 2-maske sekvens. A1 mønsteret med en 3-maske sekvens passer ikke sammen med A3 mønsteret, som er en 10-maske sekvens. Hvad er korrekt, 2-maske eller 3-maske sekvensen for borten? MVH, Nete

11.09.2022 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nete. Det er en 3-maske sekvens, men trekker seg sammen (og kan se ut som en 2-maske sekvens). Når arbeidet måler 8 cm felles det 1-0-1-0-1-0 masker, slik at A.3 passer til en 10-maske sekvens. mvh DROPS Design

12.09.2022 - 14:08

country flag Bianka wrote:

In der deutschen Anleitung steht am Ende des Relief vierfach Stäbchen und ein Stäbchen man soll 2 Maschen überspringen. Das passt aber nicht weil dann am Ende Maschen fehlen und in der englischen Version steht nichts von 2 Maschen überspringen. Wie ist das zu verstehen?

24.02.2022 - 00:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bianke, danke für den Hinweis, deutsche Anleitung wurde korrigiert. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.02.2022 - 11:22

country flag Bianka wrote:

Ich bin beim Rückenteil und sollte A1 bis zum reihenende häkeln und dann hin und zurück bis 8 cm erreicht sind. Feste Maschen und eine Abnahme folgen dann.Das habe ich geschafft. Nun soll ich jeweils 1 Stäbchen in die ersten 3 festen Maschen häkeln. Geschafft. Nun soll ich A2 und anschließend A3 häkeln und komme absolut nicht weiter mit den vierfach reliefstäbchen um vierfach oder um dreifach reliefstäbchen der vorherigen Reihe häkeln, da in A1 keine dieser Stäbchen gehäkelt wird.

11.02.2022 - 00:14

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bianka, nach A.1 häkeln Sie: 3 Stäbchen, A.2 (= 2 M), A.3 (= 10 M x 10), A.4 (= 12 M), 3 Stb. Die Reliefstäbchen der 1. Reihe in A.2-A.4 häkeln Sie um die Stäbchen von A.1 - die untere Reihe mit dem Stern zeigt, um welchen Stäbchen (entweder Relief oder Stb von A.1) Sie häkeln Sollen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.02.2022 - 11:09

country flag Merethe Sørensen wrote:

I can't find pattern A1?

10.12.2021 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Merethe, pattern A.1 is below the sleeve in the measurements chart. Happy crochetting!

11.12.2021 - 20:06

country flag Lisianne RICHARD wrote:

Bonjour, sur le modèle châle 165-4 on tricote avec combien de fils svp merci

14.08.2021 - 18:10