DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.25 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sand Blizzard

Knitted jumper in DROPS Melody. Piece is knitted bottom up, with ribs and V-neck. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 227-49
DROPS design: Pattern ml-074
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
300-300-300-400-400-400 g colour no 15, beige

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Melody
DROPS Melody
71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 4.25 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 81 stitches), minus edge stitches (2 stitches), and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 21) = 3.8.
In this example work approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 2 stitches increased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front piece bottom up in parts. Work back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round, bottom up. Sew the piece together as explained in pattern. Then pick up stitches for neck edge.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 81-89-95-103-113-125 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib back and forth as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above - * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 14 cm, next row is worked from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 21-23-25-27-29-33 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP = 60-66-70-76-84-92 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm, cast off for armholes as follows: Cast off the first 2 stitches, work as before the rest of row. Turn piece, cast off the first 2 stitches, work as before the rest of row = 56-62-66-72-80-88 stitches remain.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches for neck. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 19-22-23-26-29-33 stitches remain for shoulder. Then work as before until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 81-89-95-103-113-125 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm with DROPS Melody. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Then work rib back and forth as follows from right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 14 cm, next row is worked from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - AT THE SAME TIME decrease 21-23-25-27-29-33 stitches evenly – remember DECREASE TIP = 60-66-70-76-84-92 stitches. Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm, cast off for armholes as follows: Cast off the first 2 stitches, work as before the rest of row. Turn piece, cast off the first 2 stitches, work as before the rest of row = 56-62-66-72-80-88 stitches remain.
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm begin decreases for V-neck. Insert 1 marker in the middle of row, there should be 28-31-33-36-40-44 stitches on each side of marker. Begin from right side, and work as before until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Slip the last stitches on a thread without working them.
Now work shoulder separately but do not cut the yarn. Work left shoulder from here (work first row from wrong side).

LEFT SHOULDER (front piece):
Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid front, and decrease for neck inside 1 edge stitch at the end of row from right side. Decrease every 2 cm 8-8-9-9-10-10 more times (9-9-10-10-11-11 decreases in total, decrease by knitting 2 together, first decrease was done when front piece was divided) = 19-22-23-26-29-33 stitches remain on shoulder. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total. Cast off knitting from right side.

RIGHT SHOULDER (front piece):
Slip stitches from thread back on needle.
Work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid front (work first row from right side), and decrease for neck inside 1 edge stitch at the beginning of row from right side. Decrease every 2 cm (decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting 1 stitch and passing slipped stitch over stitch worked) 9-9-10-10-11-11 times in total = 19-22-23-26-29-33 stitches remain on shoulder. NOTE: First decrease is done on first row worked). Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm in total. Cast off knitting from right side.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round bottom up on double pointed needles/circular needle.
Cast on 60-62-64-70-72-76 stitches on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm with DROPS Melody. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1). When piece measures 10 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 16-16-16-18-18-20 stitches evenly = 44-46-48-52-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 17-17-16-16-15-14 cm 3 times in total = 50-52-54-58-60-62 stitches. When sleeve measures 50-48-48-47-44-42 cm, work sleeve cap back and forth (from mid under sleeve) on circular needle until finished measurements. NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of shoulder shoulders. Work until sleeve measures approx. 52-50-50-49-46-44 cm, i.e. there is a vent of 2 cm at the top of sleeve. Cast off. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge in back loop of stitch to avoid a chunky seam. Sew sleeve cap to armhole. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart. Sew side seams, leave the bottom 14 cm open = vent.
Repeat in the other side.

NECK EDGE:
Begin from right side mid back with a short circular needle size 5.5 mm and Melody, and pick up approx. 78 to 98 stitches around the neck - number of stitches should be divisible by 2. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 – adjust so that 1 knit stitch is mid front.
AT THE SAME TIME on every round decrease 2 stitches mid front as follows: Work until 1 stitch remains before knit stitch mid front, slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). This way the V-neck will lay nicely in the neck and knit stitch will follows as a straight line mid front. Decrease like this every round until neck edge measures 4 cm. Loosely cast off all stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

symbols = sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Alina wrote:

Witam .Na jakich drutach ma być zrobiona próba , bo są dwa rodzaje drutów ? Dziękuję

26.01.2024 - 22:19

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Alibi, próbka jest wykonana na drutach nr 7, tych na których jest wykonana główna część swetra. Pozdrawiamy

27.01.2024 - 08:46

country flag Rita Domoney wrote:

Hi, I have a question about the neck edge ribbing. There is a decrease at middle front for the one side but not the other side of the middle stich. Is this correct? Thank you so much.

01.04.2022 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Domoney, you should decrease 1 stitch on each side of the middle stitch at the bottom of the neckline. Work until 1 stitch remains before the stitch on mid front, slip 2 sts as if you knit (the stitch before the middle stitch + the middle stitch), knit 1 (= the stitch after the middle stitch) and pass over the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= you have decreased also the stitch before the middle stitch). Happy knitting!

04.04.2022 - 08:02

country flag Randi Birkeland wrote:

Jeg blir litt forvirret når halskanten skal strikkes. Står at man må passe på at det blir en rett maske midt foran. Skal denne masken tas løst av og felles av? Hvilken maske vil da etterpp bli den midterste?

06.12.2021 - 16:54

country flag Franca wrote:

Stimmt es, dass ich bei den Ärmel alle 17 cm zunehmen muss? Ich wäre dann doch schon nach zwei mal zunehmen über 46 cm?

05.11.2021 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Franca, die ersten Zunahmen bei den Ärmen entstehen nach 12 cm, die 2. nach 29 cm (17 cm weiter) und die 3. nach 46 cm, dann stricken Sie bis die Arbeit entweder 50 oder 48 cm misst (siehe Größe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.11.2021 - 07:17

country flag Annemiek Duim wrote:

Goedendag, ik heb eerder een trui gebreid in Drops melody. Een prima model maar na even dragen ‘ krimpt’ deze wol. Hij trekt als het ware op. Ik hoop dat u begrijpt wat ik bedoel en of hier iets tegen te doen is. Ik heb nog veel wol over en zou deze trui graag breien. Hartelijk dank.

22.09.2021 - 17:12