DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 27.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 270.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

River Moss

Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Wish. The piece is worked top down with high neck and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 224-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no wi-020
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS WISH from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour 13, dark olive

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Wish
DROPS Wish
50% Alpaca, 33% Cotton, 17% Wool
from 27.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 270.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 60 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 8) = 7.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 7th and 8th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 6th and 7th stitch and each 7th and 8th stitch.
RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 2 knitted stitches, in the transitions between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves and sides of body): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 60-60-64-64-68-72 stitches with short circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Wish.
Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 9 cm.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 8 mm.
Knit 1 round and decrease 8-4-4-0-0-4 stitches evenly spaced - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 52-56-60-64-68-68 stitches.
Insert 1 marker – the yoke is measured from here.
Insert 4 marker threads, without working the stitches, as follows: Count 8-9-10-11-12-12 stitches (= half back piece), insert marker thread, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker thread, count 16-18-20-22-24-24 stitches (= front piece) insert marker thread, count 10 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker thread. There are 8-9-10-11-12-12 stitches left after the last thread (= half back piece).
Continue with stocking stitch and increase to RAGLAN – read description above.
Increase to raglan every 2nd round 14-16-17-17-19-21 times = 164-184-196-200-220-236 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue with stocking stitch, without further increases, until the piece measures 22-24-25-26-27-28 cm from the marker on the neck. On the next round divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 25-27-29-30-34-37 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 32-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 50-54-58-60-68-74 stitches (= front piece), place the next 32-38-40-40-42-44 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 25-27-29-30-34-37 stitches (= half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 108-116-124-132-148-160 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing in the sides. Continue in the round with stocking stitch for 5 cm. Then decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 9-9-5-10-5-7 cm a total of 2-2-3-2-2-2 times = 100-108-112-124-140-152 stitches. Work until the piece measures 30-30-31-32-33-34 cm from the division (6 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length). Knit 1 round where you increase 8-12-12-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 108-120-124-136-152-164 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm. Read CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 32-38-40-40-42-44 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 36-42-44-46-48-50 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch in the round for 2 cm. Then decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-4-4-3½-4-5 cm a total of 4-6-6-7-6-5 times = 28-30-32-32-36-40 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-39-38-38-38-38 cm from the division (6 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length). Knit 1 round where you increase 4-2-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 32-32-36-36-40-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm. The sleeve measures approx. 46-45-44-44-44-44 cm from the division.
Remember CASTING-OFF TIP and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Larissa wrote:

Bonjour. Je tricote la taille XL. En ce qui concerne les diminutions de côtés, si on diminue 2m après 5cm puis 2x après 10cm. On aura diminué au total 6m. Du coup, je ne comprends pas pourquoi on a 124m à la fin vu qu’au départ, on avait 132m. Merci de m’éclairer.

21.01.2024 - 02:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Larissa, en taille XL on ne diminue que 2 fois au total: 1 fois après 5 cm et 1 fois après 10 autres cm (15 cm depuis la division), soit 132 - (4 m x 4) = 124 mailles. Bon tricot!

22.01.2024 - 09:09

country flag Silke Haber wrote:

Hallo, ich würde den Pullover gern in einem dünneren Garn stricken. Z.B.Drops Nord oder Drops Loves You 9. Weiß aber nicht wie man das umrechnet. Kann jemand helfen? Vielen Dank Silke Haber

17.01.2024 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Haber, die Maschenprobe würde dann verschieden, so sollten Sie die ganze Anleitung nach Ihrer Maschenprobe umrechnen, sonnst finden Sie alle Pullover für Herren in einer Wolle der Garngruppe A wie Nord und DROPS Loves you 9 18.01.2024 - 08:17

country flag Isabella Nielsen wrote:

Hej. Kunne I ikke skrive i opskriften hvilke masker, der skal være raglanmasker/raglanstolpe, når man har talt feks 10 masker? Er det så maske nr. 10+11 eller 11+12, eller hvordan skal det forstås? Mvh Isabella

14.12.2022 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Isabella, det er de 2 masker (1 på hver side af mærket) som er raglanovergangen og du tager ud på hver side af de 2 masker :)

15.12.2022 - 09:37

country flag LEONOR wrote:

Good morning: I'm making this pattern and I haven't had any problems, but when I make the raglan and use the "YO" increases in one row and in the next I knit it twisted, I still have a lace effect next to each marker in the raglan. In other sweater patterns I always used the M1 R/L increase and this does not happen to me. What will be the problem? Thank you very much

17.11.2022 - 13:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Leonor, please feel free to change the way of increasing to raglan using your best favorite technique. Happy knitting!

17.11.2022 - 16:09

country flag Fanny Redon wrote:

Bonjour, pour l'échantillon faut-il le faire avec les aiguilles 7 ou 8 ?

03.11.2022 - 14:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Redon, il doit se faire avec les aiguilles 8 - pensez également que le pull se tricote en rond, si votre tension est différente lorsque vous tricotez en rond ou en rangs, pensez à tricoter votre échantillon en rond. Bon tricot!

04.11.2022 - 07:43

country flag Kamila wrote:

Based on the instructions, I was unable to do the ribbing pattern for the bottom of body due to the number of stitches (size S 108/L 124).

26.08.2022 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kamila, at the bottom of body part you will work in rib K2, P2, there are 108 sts in size S, this means you will repeat (knit 2, purl2) a total of 27 times. In size L there are 124 sts, you will work (knit 2, purl 2) a total of 31 times. Can this help?

26.08.2022 - 09:44

country flag Isabella wrote:

Hvor meget giver sweateren sig, når den bliver vasket?

21.05.2022 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Isabella. Følg vaskeanvisningen, se enten på etikkenten eller les mer under Tips&Hjelp - Vaskeanvisning - Generelle Tips. Plagget skal formes etter vask og tørkes liggende, men husk legg aldri et dryppende vått plagg til tørk. Unngå å tørke plagget på underlag som suger til seg fuktighet, som for eksempel frottéhåndklær. I begge tilfeller kan plagget misfarges eller miste sin naturlige elastisitet. Følges disse rådene, skal plagget holde seg ganske likt slik det først var. mvh DROPS Design

23.05.2022 - 09:29

country flag Katarzyna wrote:

Robię rozmiar XL. Po oddzieleniu dekoldu i umieszczeniu markerów nie znajdują się one pomiędzy dwoma oczkami prawymi (2 razy między prawymi i 2 razy między lewymi). Jak w takim razie wyrabiać reglan skoro w środku maja być 2 prawe oczka

14.04.2022 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Kasiu, po wykonaniu golfu, dalsza część swetra jest już przerabiana dżersejem prawym, wykonujesz reglan w wyznaczonych miejscach (wg wzoru). I może się zdarzyć, że linia reglanu nie jest przedłużeniem oczek prawych ściągacza (patrz zdjęcie). Miłej pracy!

15.04.2022 - 09:24

country flag Fabiana wrote:

Come fisso i fili che sono rimasti liberi dopo aver ripreso le maniche?

22.12.2021 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Fabiana, i fili liberi verranno fissati come gli altri fili alla fine del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

26.12.2021 - 22:57