Rutsy wrote:
Hello, which is the size that the model is wearing? I'm asking because I'm very bad at finding my size and I have a similar body than hers, thank you!
03.11.2022 - 05:25DROPS Design answered:
Hi Rutsy, You will find a size chart at the bottom of the pattern, with all the measurements for the different sizes. Happy crafting!
03.11.2022 - 06:48Julie wrote:
In the yoke division for increase for the raglan, after placing the markers for the S size, based on 160 stitches, I have 4 stitches left over. Can you tell me why please.
18.06.2022 - 08:04DROPS Design answered:
Dear Julie, you insert the markers inside the stitches. For size S, you have 172 stitches + the 4 stitches with the stitch marker = 176 stitches. For size XS, you have 156 stitches + the 4 stitches with the stitch marker = 160 stitches. Happy knitting!
18.06.2022 - 16:00Marguerite Thur wrote:
Please explain increase every 2nd row. My take on this. Row 1 increase. Row 2 and 3 work even. Repeat. If this is the case I'll be 2 inches over the 6 1/4 inches for the L size. Thank you.
01.05.2022 - 04:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Thur, when you increase on every 2nd row, work like this: 1 row with increases, 1 row without increases, and repeat these 2 rows. Happy knitting!
02.05.2022 - 10:33Susan wrote:
Are there german short rows in this pattern? if not, can I add them to the back of the neck for a better fit? I feel like the front of high neck sweaters always ride up my neck and make it very uncomfortable if I don't add german short rows.
11.04.2022 - 06:44DROPS Design answered:
Hi Susan, The pattern does not include short rows, but you can make an elevation at the beck of the neck if you wish. We have a number of jumper patterns with elevations if you need help. Happy knitting!
11.04.2022 - 07:10Jo wrote:
My round is starting from the centre of the back. I have now reached the instruction to divide for front and back to finish the bottom ribs but my working yarn is in the centre of the back. How do I proceed from here?
01.03.2022 - 16:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jo, you can either work to the side (the extra row worked on the half of sts won't be visible) - or then cut the yarn and join it on the side to work each piece separately. Happy knitting!
01.03.2022 - 16:39Vaillant wrote:
Bonsoir, petit souci sur les dernières augmentations du col : j’ai 168 mailles et je dois augmenter 32 mailles pour atteindre 200 mailles. : je dois faire une augmentation toutes les 5,25 mailles : comment faire ? Merci
05.01.2022 - 20:01DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vaillant, cette leçon explique comment répartir des augmentations (et des diminutions) en fonction du résultat quand il ne tombe pas juste. Dans votre cas, vous allez augmenter après chaque 5ème maille, il restera 8 mailles à la fin du tour. Bon tricot!
06.01.2022 - 07:42Patrizia wrote:
Vi ringrazio e chiedo scusa perché la mia domanda era rivolta ad un altro modello, il 228-44, identico nella lavorazione degli aumenti.
20.12.2021 - 16:33DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Patrizia, abbiamo modificato la sezioni degli aumenti sullo sprone nel modello 228-44: grazie per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!
05.01.2022 - 10:51Patrizia Pascali wrote:
Buongiorno nella lavorazione del collo credo ci sia un errore :"Quando le coste misurano 6 cm, aumentare tutte le sezioni ogni 1 maglia rovescio a 2 maglie rovescio" perché le sezioni a rovescio sono già state aumentate da 1 a 2 maglie nei precedenti 3 cm . Forse si intende : aumentate a 3 maglie a rovescio? Grazie
19.12.2021 - 10:34DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Patrizia, abbiamo leggermente modificato il testo: i primi aumenti a 3 cm sono a sezioni alterne, le altre sezioni a rovescio vengono aumentate a 6 cm. Buon lavoro!
20.12.2021 - 08:13Dorthe wrote:
Jeg strikker i str M. Efter halskanten har jeg 188 m, som skal deles til ærmer, for- og bagstykke. Fordelingen med 30 m til hvert ærme og 62 m til for- og bagstykke giver 184 m. Hvad med de sidste 4 m?
14.11.2021 - 15:33DROPS Design answered:
Hej Dorthe. Du ska sätta merke i maskan, så de 4 maskorna är de 4 du satt merke i. Mvh DROPS Design
16.11.2021 - 09:09
Warm My Heart |
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Knitted sweater for DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked top down with raglan, split in the sides and ribbed edges. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 228-18 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE TIP-1: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over after each purled section. On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 150 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 10) = 15. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 15th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN: Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitches by making 1 yarn over (= 8 stitches increased on the round). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. DECREASE TIP (sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased). BINDING-OFF TIP: To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle top down to the beginning of the split in the sides. Then the front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 100-104-108-112-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit 1 round. Work rib in the round (knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Now increase every second purl-1 to purl-2 – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 125-130-135-140-150-155 stitches. When the rib measures 6 cm = 2 3/8" increase the remaining purl-1 to purl-2 = 150-156-162-168-180-186 stitches. When the rib measures 8 cm = 3 1/8", knit 1 round where you increase 10-20-26-32-32-34 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 160-176-188-200-212-220 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Insert a marker here. THE YOKE IS MEASURED FROM THIS MARKER. YOKE: Insert 4 other markers as follows: Skip 27-29-31-33-36-39 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert marker in the next stitch (= in the transition between back piece and sleeve), skip 24-28-30-32-32-30 stitches, insert marker in the next stitch (= in the transition between sleeve and front piece), skip 54-58-62-66-72-78 stitches, insert marker in the next stitch (= in the transition between front piece and sleeve), skip 24-28-30-32-32-30 stitches, insert marker in the next stitch (= in the transition between sleeve and back piece). There are 27-29-31-33-36-39 stitches left after the last marker (= ½ back piece). Work stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the first round start to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 14-16-18-19-21-24 times = 272-304-332-352-380-412 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue working until the yoke measures 13-13-15-16-18-20 cm = 5 1/8"-5 1/8"-6"-6 1/4"-7"-8" from the marker. Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work the first 41-45-49-52-57-63 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-76-80 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 82-90-98-104-114-126 stitches (= front piece), place the next 54-62-68-72-76-80 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 41-45-49-52-57-63 stitches (= ½ back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 184-200-216-232-252-276 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round until the piece measures 22-25-25-26-26-26 cm = 8 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4" from the division. There is approx 4 cm = 1 1/2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. To avoid the following rib being tight, knit 1 round where you increase 36-44-46-48-52-52 stitches evenly spaced = 220-244-262-280-304-328 stitches. Now divide each piece so that there are the same number of stitches on back piece and on front piece = 110-122-131-140-152-164 masker. Change to circular needle size 3,5 MM = US 8 and work rib as explained below. FRONT PIECE: 1st ROW (= right side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, *knit 1twisted, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1 twised, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. 2nd ROW (= wrong side): 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, *purl 1 twisted, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 left, purl 1 twisted, 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The sweater measures approx. 51-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8" from the shoulder down. BACK PIECE: Work rib the same way as on front piece until rib measures 14 cm = 5 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remmber BINDING-OFF TIP. The sweater measures approx. 61-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8" from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 54-62-68-72-76-80 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-72-78-84-88-92 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Now decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 5/8"-1 1/8"-1"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2" a total of 7-10-12-14-15-16 times = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-40-38-38-36-34 cm = 15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/8" from the division. There is approx 5 cm = 2" left to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length. Knit 1 round where you increase 13-14-15-16-17-18 stitches evenly spaced = 63-66-69-72-75-78 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and work rib (knit 1 twisted, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 44-45-43-43-41-39 cm = 17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17"-17"-16 1/8"-15 1/4" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Margit wrote:
Sorry, ich bitte um Entschuldigung. Ich habe gerade festgestellt, dass nicht Ihr sondern ich einen Fehler gemacht habe. Es stimmt alles ganz genau. Nochmal Sorry und liebe Grüße! Margit
03.10.2021 - 14:56