DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lovely Camellia Jacket

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Nepal and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked in garter stitch with ribbed edges. Sizes 3 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 40-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-030-bn
Yarn group C + A
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Equivalent to child’s height in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-350-400-450-500 g colour 8912, blush
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-75-75-75-100-100 g colour 04, old pink

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 23 rows in height with garter stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The jacket is worked with circular needle, back and forth and bottom up, as far as the armholes. The piece is then divided and the back and front pieces are finished separately. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes and the sleeves are worked back and forth, top down. The neck and bands are worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 77-81-87-91-97-101 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand Nepal and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Now work garter stitch over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME on the first row decrease 1 stitch = 76-80-86-90-96-100 stitches.

Work until the piece measures 30-33-36-39-41-43 cm from the cast-on edge. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Now cast off for the armholes on the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches (= front piece), cast off the next 2 stitches for the armhole, work the next 42-44-48-50-54-56 stitches (= back piece), cast off the next 2 stitches for the armhole, work the last 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches (= front piece). The front and back pieces are finished separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches. Work garter stitch. Cast off when the piece measures 44-48-52-56-59-62 cm (14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the cast-off stitches on the armhole).

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches. Work garter stitch. Cast off when the piece measures 44-48-52-56-59-62 cm (14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the cast-off stitches on the armhole).

BACK PIECE:
= 42-44-48-50-54-56 stitches. Continue with garter stitch until the piece measures 42-46-50-54-57-60 cm. Cast off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. On the next row cast off 1 stitch towards the neck = 15-16-17-18-19-20 stitches on the shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 44-48-52-56-59-62 cm (14-15-16-17-18-19 cm from the cast-off stitches on the armhole). Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY-1:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVE:
The sleeves are worked back and forth, top down.
Knit up 36-40-42-44-46-50 stitches around the armhole with circular needle size 7 mm, using 1 strand Nepal and 1 strand Kid-Silk - knit up 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches from the bottom of the armhole to the shoulder seam and 18-20-21-22-23-25 stitches from the shoulder seam down the other side. Work garter stitch back and forth. When the piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the sleeve (knit together the 2 outermost stitches on each side). Decrease like this every 5-5-5-5-5½-5 cm a total of 5-6-7-7-7-9 times = 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches. Continue with garter stitch until the piece measures 27-31-35-38-41-46 cm (try the jacket on and work to desired length; 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm left to finished length). Change to circular needle size 6 mm and work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When the rib measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures 32-36-40-44-47-52 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY-2:
Sew the sleeve seams in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch, so the seam is flat.

BANDS/NECK:
Insert 1 marker mid-back of neck; this marker is used when dividing the stitches for the bands. The bands are knitted up inside the 1 edge stitch on the front pieces and on the neck.
Start from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece – knit up approx. 76-82-89-95-101-106 stitches along the front piece and round the neck as far as the marker at the back, using circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand of each quality – leave the marker in place. Knit up approx. 77-83-90-96-102-107 stitches down to the bottom of the left front piece. The total number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1 = approx. 153-165-179-191-203-213 stitches. It is important the bands are neither too loose nor too tight; adjust the number of stitches if necessary.
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CASTING OFF TIP!

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Karin Carlsson wrote:

Ska sticka denna tröja i färgen skog Nepal vilken färg väljer man då på silk?

02.03.2024 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karin. Fargevalg er veldig personlig, så det er vanskelig å gi et 100% riktig svar. Men ta en titt på farge 19, mørk grønn. Kanskje du vil like den. Eller om du ønsker mer lysere melert farge, ta en titt på farge 34, salvie grønn eller mørkere farge med litt blått i, se farge 37, nordsjøen. mvh DROPS Design

04.03.2024 - 14:05

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Jeszcze nie zaczełam robić swetra ponieważ chciałabym żeby schemat i opis były dla mnie spójne, ale opis nie pasuje mi do schematu. Chciałabym zrobić 122/128cm, ale nie rozumiem dlaczego na 38cm jest 87o, bo z moich obliczeń te liczby powinny być zupełnie inne. Chciałabym wiedzieć dlaczego mi na 38cm wychodzi 49o, a wam 87o. Wedle moich obliczeń z 87o wyjdzie 67cm. Napisałam do was żebyście mi wytłumaczyli skąd ta dysproporcja między moimi wyliczeniami a waszymi.

08.01.2024 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdo, z 87 oczek wyszłaby szerokość dziany ok. 67 cm, jeśli przerabiałabyś ściegiem francuskim/dżersejem i na większych drutach. Jednak ściągacz przerabiasz na drutach o rozmiar mniejszych i jest on z zasady ściegiem, który ściąga robótkę. Zaczynaj śmiało, wszystko będzie dobrze :) Pozdrawiamy!

09.01.2024 - 07:56

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Dziękuję za szybką odpowiedź, ale niestety w żaden sposób mi ona nie pomogła, ponieważ w dalszym ciągu nie wiem dlaczego jest 87o na 38cm robótki. Skoro z obliczeń wynika inaczej.

07.01.2024 - 18:28

DROPS Design answered:

Magdo, napisz jaki rozmiar wykonujesz i w którym miejscu wzoru się teraz znajdujesz.

08.01.2024 - 09:17

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Przy szyciu przodu i tyłu jest informacja żeby nabrać 87o co według schematu ma odpowiadać 38cm, ale z informacji i wymiarów próbki wynika, że na 38cm powinno być dokładnie 49.4o , a jeśli nabierzemy 87o to, to będzie równe dokładnie 66.92cm. Dlatego nie wiem skąd się wzięło 87o. Czy to jest jakiś błąd w schemacie lub opisie, a może ja źle zrozumiałam opis lub wykres?

07.01.2024 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Magdaleno, próbka jest wykonana dla ściegu francuskiego. Obszycia są przerabiane ściągaczem. Przerabiaj dalej zgodnie z opisem. Pozdrawiamy!

07.01.2024 - 17:51

country flag Stine wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, kann ich diese Jacke auch glatt rechts statt kraus rechts stricken oder verändern sich dadurch zu sehr die Maße? Vielen Dank und viele Grüße Stine

30.12.2023 - 10:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Stine, die Maschenprobe in der Höhe wird unterschiedlich sein, aber die Maschenprobe in der Breite wird dieselbe sein. Sonnst können Sie auch glatt stricken, weniger Garn benutzen Sie aber wahrscheinlich als mit krausrechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.01.2024 - 10:40

country flag Liza wrote:

Is the cardigan knit in 2 strands (Nepad and Silk) throughout the pattern or only in specific sections. I have noticed that the recommended usage of silk is lower that that of Nepal (in grams) but was not sure where in the pattern we would use only one strand. Thank you

13.11.2023 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Liza, The whole garment is worked with 1 strand of each quality. The length of yarn on each ball differs, depending on the yarn you are using: 75 metres per 50 g ball for nepal and 210 metres per 25 g ball for the Kid Silk. Taking the samllest size as an example, 250 g Nepal = approx. 75 x 5 = 375 metres. 50 g Kid Silk 0 2 x 210 = 420 metres. So the lengths are similar. Happy knitting!

14.11.2023 - 06:51

country flag Isabella wrote:

Hello I am making this sweater for my sister and she asked for a yarn from a different brand . The yarn she has chosen is Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Sparkle . This yarn is 97% acrylic and 3% metallic polyester . It is 170 grams and 277 meters and suggests a 5mm needles for a gauge of 18 stitches x 23 rows . I am new to knitting and am not sure how to convert the pattern for this yarn .I would like to use this yarn because she is pretty committed to it.

28.09.2023 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Isabella, the gauge you indicate (I suppose for stocking stitch) is approx. for a group C yarn, while this pattern uses a group C + group A yarn. You would need to work a sample with garter stitch to see if the gauge matches the one in the pattern. If positive you can use the pattern directly; if not you will need to make some adjustments. For more information check the following lesson: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=19. Happy knitting!

30.09.2023 - 23:58

country flag Frida wrote:

Kan jag byta ut Nepal till Paris? Har barn som är känslig mot ull.

05.09.2023 - 08:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Frida, Ja du kan bruge DROPS Paris til Napal opskrifter, bare se til at overholde strikkefastheden som står i opskriften :)

08.09.2023 - 15:36

country flag Rosi wrote:

Hallo! Bin jetzt an der Stelle, an der die Ärmel gestrickt werden. Haben die Ärmel wirklich zwei Nähte? Eine unten drunter, eine oben? Bin gerade etwas verwirrt ... LG Rosi

20.08.2023 - 05:22

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rosi, ja genau gibt es 2 Nähte: die ersten 3 cm oben werden an den abgeketteten Maschen für die Armlöcher angenäht (siehe b und B in diesem Video (hier näht man a/A nicht da die Maschen aufgefassen werden), und dann die beiden Seiten von der Ärmel werden zusammengenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.08.2023 - 08:46

country flag Lieve wrote:

Lovely Camellia Jacket Ik heb gebreid zoals patroon en het is veel te groot. Ik heb 17 steken op 10 cm. Dan moet ik toch kleinere naalden nemen niet?

12.08.2023 - 21:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lieve,

Als je 17 steken op 10 cm in de hoogte hebt, dan wordt het kledingstuk inderdaad te groot en zou je kleinere naalden moeten gebruiken. Maak altijd eerst een proeflapje en pas de naalddikte aan totdat je de juiste stekenverhouding hebt. De stekenverhouding in de breedte is het belangrijkst, omdat je in de hoogte kunt stoppen op het juiste aantal centimeters zoals aangegeven in het patroon.

14.08.2023 - 13:59