DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 5.80 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

May Flowers Vest

Knitted vest in DROPS Soft Tweed. The piece is worked with V-neck, ribbed edges and embroidered flowers. Sizes S - XXXL. Theme: Embroidery.

DROPS 222-42
DROPS Design: Pattern no st-002
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
The flowers measure 4.5 - 5 cm = 1 5/8" – 2" in height and approx. 2.5 cm = 1” in width.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SOFT TWEED from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 04, beige

For the flowers we have used:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
color 31, forest green
color 40, powder pink
color 32, dark rose
color 33, rose
color 01, off white
color 16, light pink

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 8 = US 7: Length 60-60-60-80-80-80 cm = 23 5/8"-23 5/8"-23 5/8"-31 1/2"-31 1/2"-31 1/2".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 60 cm = 24”.

SEWING NEEDLE: For embroidery.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Soft Tweed
DROPS Soft Tweed
50% Wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Viscose
from 5.80 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 111 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 14) = 7.7.
In this example decrease by knitting together alternately each 6th and 7th stitch and each 7th and 8th stitch (approx.).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for armholes and V-neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease 2 stitches at the beginning of the row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 2 stitches at the end of the row as follows: Work until there are 6 stitches left, work A.2 over the next 3 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch

Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row as follows: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.3 over the next 3 stitches (2 stitches decreased on the first row and 1 stitch increased on the second row in A.3 = 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch at the end of the row as follows: Work until there are 6 stitches left, A.4 over the next 3 stitches (2 stitches decreased on the first row and 1 stitch increased on the second row in A.4 = 1 stitch decreased), 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked back and forth on circular needles. The pieces is then sewn together. Edges are worked in the round on circular needles around the armholes, and the neck edge is worked back and forth on circular needle. When the whole vest is finished flowers are embroidered on the front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 111-120-129-141-153-168 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Work rib back and forth as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 14-15-16-18-18-21 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 97-105-113-123-135-147 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches are knitted). Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8". REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 5-5-7-7-8-8 stitches for the armholes. Then decrease on each side as follows – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches as shown in A.2 every 4th row a total of 0-0-0-2-4-7 times, then decrease 1 stitch as shown in A.3/A.4 every 4th row 8-10-10-9-8-6 times (= 8-10-10-13-16-20 stitches decreased on each side) = 71-75-79-83-87-91 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8", bind off the middle 31-31-33-33-35-35 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. On the next row from the neck bind off 1 stitch = 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4" from the bottom of the armhole. Bind off with knit (make sure the bind-off edge is not tight). The piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 111-120-129-141-153-168 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Work rib back and forth as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 14-15-16-18-18-21 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 97-105-113-123-135-147 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (edge stitches are knitted). Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8".

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
You now decrease for the armholes and V-neck at the same time – read the next section before continuing.

ARMHOLES:
At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 5-5-7-7-8-8 stitches for the armholes. Then decrease stitches on each side as follows – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches as shown in A.2 every 4th row 0-0-0-2-4-7 times, then decrease 1 stitch as shown in A.3/A.4 every 4th row 8-10-10-9-8-6 times = 8-10-10-13-16-20 stitches decreased on each side.
V-NECK:
When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4", bind off the middle stitch on the row and each shoulder is finished separately.
Right shoulder:
Continue back and forth and decrease for the neck at the beginning of each row from the right side (from the neck) – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches as shown in A.2 every 4th row 4-4-4-4-4-4 times, then decrease 1 stitch as shown in A.3 every 4th row 8-8-9-9-10-10 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased for the neck.
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4" from the bottom of the armhole. Bind off with knit (make sure the bind-off edge is not tight). The piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
Left shoulder:
Continue back and forth and decrease for the neck at the end of each row from the right side (towards the neck) – remember DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease 2 stitches as shown in A.2 every 4th row 4-4-4-4-4-4 times, then decrease 1 stitch as shown in A.4 every 4th row 8-8-9-9-10-10 times = 16-16-17-17-18-18 stitches decreased for the neck.
When all the decreases for the neck and armhole are finished there are 19-21-22-24-25-27 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm = 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4" from the bottom of the armhole. Bind off with knit (make sure the bind-off edge is not tight). The piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew the side seams from the armholes down, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start from the bottom of the V-neck, use circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit up from the right side 159 to 192 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the neck. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3.
Work pattern A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side – make sure the pattern starts and finishes with the first stitch in A.1 inside the edge stitches, so the pattern is symmetrical on both sides.
Continue back and forth like this for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Lay the right side of the neck on top of the left side mid-front. Sew the edge stitch neatly to the neck line. Repeat on the inside so the left side is sewn to the right side.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Start at the side seam under the sleeve with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Soft Tweed. Knit up from the right side 144 to 168 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the armhole. The number of stitches should be divisible by 3. Work A.1 in the round for 3½ to 4 cm = 1 1/4" to 1 1/2". Work 1 more round but in the first 5-5-6-6-7-7 repetitions and the last 6-6-7-7-8-8 repetitions of A.1 under the sleeve, decrease all purl-2 to purl-1 by purling the 2 stitches together. This gives a neater finish to the bottom of the sleeve edge.
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

EMBROIDERING:
Flowers are embroidered at the bottom of the front piece. Place the flowers in a row approx. 2 cm = 3/4" above the rib and 8.5 – 9 cm = 3 1/4" – 3 1/2" between each one.

FLOWER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The flower measures approx. 4,5 – 5 cm = 1 5/8" – 2" in height and approx. 2,5 cm = 1” in width.
The flower consists of 2 leaves at the bottom, 1 stem and 1 flower.
First embroider the leaves, then make the stem and finish with the flower itself. The hole flower is worked with twisted chain stitches and chain stitches.

LEAVES:
The leaves are embroidered with 1 strand color forest green and consist of 2 chain stitches starting from the same hole at the bottom of the flower.
Start as follows:
STITCH 1: Work 1 chain stitch of approx. 2 cm = 3/4" in length, slightly diagonally up and to the right – see diagram B and diagram explanation.
STITCH 2: Work the second chain stitch from the same hole, slightly diagonally up and to the left. The leaves are finished.

STEM:
The stem is embroidered with 1 strand of color forest green and consists of 2 twisted chain stitches in height.
Start from the same hole as the leaves started from and work 1 twisted chain stitch of approx. 1.5 cm = 1/2" straight up between the 2 leaves - see diagram A and the diagram explanation. Work 1 more stitch in height. The stem is finished. Cut and fasten the strand.

FLOWER:
Each flower is worked with 2 strands and chain stitch, each with a different color: powder pink, dark rose, rose, off white and light pink. They consist of 3 chain stitches, all starting from the same hole where the stem finished.
Start as follows:
STITCH 1: Work a chain stitch of approx. 1.5 cm = 1/2", slightly diagonally up to the right – see diagram B and diagram explanation.
STITCH 2: Work the second chain stitch from the same hole, slightly diagonally up to the left.
STITCH 3: Work the third chain stitch from the same hole but straight up between the other 2 stitches. The flower is finished. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work as many flowers as you wish, placing them as you feel is best.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = twisted right from right side, twisted purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = purl 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = worked from the wrong side: 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = Twisted chain stitch, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and through to the right side where you would like the chain stitch to begin.
PICTURE 2: Thread the needle down through the hole the strand came up through, then to the right side again approx. 2 cm = 3/4" further on – allow the strand to lie in a loop around the tip of the needle.
PICTURE 3: Pick up the loop and twist it 2-3 times before laying it down again under the tip of the needle.
PICTURE 4: Pull the strand through carefully, so the stitch is neat.
If you want more stitches in height, repeat PICTURES 2 - 4.
PICTURE 5: Thread the needle through the piece approx. 0.5 stitches in front of the loop and pull it through to the wrong side. Fasten the strand.
PICTURE 6: The twisted chain stitch is finished.
symbols = Chain stitch, Pictures 1-6.
PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and through to the right side where you would like the chain stitch to begin.
PICTURE 2: Insert the needle down through the hole the strand came up through, then to the right side again approx. 2 cm = 3/4" further on – allow the strand to lie under the point of the needle.
PICTURE 3: Now thread the needle through the piece and form a loop with the strand which comes up in the middle of the loop.
PICTURE 4: Insert the needle into the piece approx. 0.5 stitches in front of the loop and pull it through the piece.
PICTURE 5: The chain stitch is finished; if you want more stitches, start from Picture 1 again. Fasten the thread on the wrong side.
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Ghita Gustafsson wrote:

Jag stickar med angivna stickor och har 20 m/10 cm och mitt arbete mäter totalt 52 cm inte 48 som det står. Vad gör jag?

22.03.2024 - 18:03

country flag Ghita Gustafsson wrote:

Hej undrar på diagram a3 och a4 ska de användas på vä resp hö sida? Och börjar diagrammen ner till höger . Är det bara räta varv angivna i mönstret.

22.03.2024 - 15:21

country flag Marie-noelle Eyssartier wrote:

Bonjour le modèle me plait beaucoup quel est le fil alternatif qui passe dans la machine à laver s'il vous plait merci dans l'attente je vous remercie de votre compréhension Mme EYSSARTIER

12.03.2024 - 07:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Eyssartier, vous pouvez utiliser n'importe quelle autre laine du groupe de fils B, traitée "Superwash" ou bien un coton, découvrez-les ici . Bon tricot!

12.03.2024 - 08:08

country flag Christine Delany wrote:

When stitching the neck edge , the pattern refers to picking up a number of stitches that can be divisible by 3 . However the pattern also refers to including an edge stitch on both sides . This would suggest a need for an extra two stitches ie 161 instead of a 159 ? Could you please confirm . Thank you

04.03.2024 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Delany, you need a number of sts divisible by 3 to get: 1 edge stitch, repeat the 3 sts in A.1 until 2 sts remain, work the first stitch in A.1 (so that pattern is symmetrical on both sides) and finish with 1 edge stitch. Happy knitting!

04.03.2024 - 10:04

country flag Inger Härmark wrote:

Jag har börjat sticka denna väst i storlek L. När jag stickar resåren som jag tolkar mönstret och diagrammet blir det en rät (vriden) maska både i början och i slutet av varvet vilket gör att det blir två sådana maskor intill varandra i sidsömmen. Har jag tolkat det rätt eller fel?

28.01.2024 - 14:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inger. Du har tolket det riktig, i denne oppskriften blir det 2 vridd rett (fra retten) i hver side. mvh DROPS Design

05.02.2024 - 11:52

country flag Zuzana wrote:

Ich würde das Teil gerne in Runden stricken, um nicht zusammen nähen müssen. Wie gehen die Abnahmen beim V Ausschnitt, wenn in Runden gestrickt wird? Danke

20.11.2023 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Zuzana, Rumpfteil können Sie bis Armlöcher in Runden stricken, dann sollen Sie die Arbeit teilen und Rücken- / Vorderteil in Reihen separat stricken. V-Halsausschnitt wird dann auch in Reihen gestrickt werden, da die Arbeit schon geteilt wurde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.11.2023 - 08:46

country flag Harriet Gill wrote:

Hi there, please could you clarify if, when knitting the neck band, which needles to use and how long these should be. In the Materials section it mentions needles 3.5 and 4.5 and their required length but it doesn't mention any other needles. I am about to buy all the materials for this project and want to make sure I have everything I need. Thank you so much for your help. Best wishes Harriet

07.10.2023 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Harriet, it's a typo in the pattern; it should be the 3.5mm needle, as the rest of rib sections in the pattern. We will correct them as soon as possible. Happy knitting!

08.10.2023 - 22:36

country flag Nettan wrote:

Hej! Funderar lite på varför det ska vara 16m kvar på framstyckets axel och 19m på bakstyckets axel? Mvh

22.09.2023 - 12:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Nettan, det må være samme maskeantal som på højre skulder. Vi skal få lavet en rettelse :)

05.10.2023 - 08:17

country flag Gaby wrote:

Voor de mouwranden moet ik 144-168 steken opnemen. Omdat ik boordsteek ga breien neem ik voor elke naald een steek langs de rand op. Toen ik dat gedaan had, stonden er echter 188 steken op de naald. Hoe los ik dat op?

14.02.2023 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Gaby,

Je zou steken verdeeld kunnen minderen door steken samen te breien op de eerste naald.

15.02.2023 - 20:36

country flag Claudia Osterberg wrote:

Hallo, ich muss für anderes Garn ein bisschen rechnen und bin dabei auf folgende Frage gestoßen: Beim Rückenteil bleiben je 19M für die Schulter, beim Vorderteil je 16M. Soll das so sein ? Danke für eine Antwort, Claudia

02.02.2023 - 14:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Claudia, es sind 16 Maschen übrig für den Schulter in S für beide Rücken- und Vorderteil - beim Vorderteil nehmen Sie 16 Maschen für den V-Ausschnitt + 8 M für Armausschnitt. 97 M - 10-16 M (Armausschnitt) - 1 Mittlere Masche /2 = 35 M für jede Schulter - 16 M Halsausschnitt = 19 M übrig für den Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.02.2023 - 16:22