DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Swing by Spring Top

Knitted sweater in DROPS Belle. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, lace pattern, leaf pattern and short balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 222-32
DROPS design: Pattern vs-078
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-122-132 cm = 31 1/2"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-48"-52"
Full length: 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm = 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 02, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 = 16” and 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for edges.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Belle
DROPS Belle
53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 2.15 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP (applies to side of body):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 100-100-104-108-112-120 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Belle. Knit 1 round.
Then work rib = knit 1/purl 1. When rib measures 2-2-3-3-3-3 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8", switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round mid back, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Work A.1 in the round (= 25-25-26-27-28-30 repetitions of 4 stitches).
When A.1 has been worked, there are 200-200-208-216-280-300 stitches on needle. Piece now measures 4-4-4-4-6-6 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" from marker.
Then work A.2 in the round (= 25-25-26-27-28-30 repetitions of 8-8-8-8-10-10 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When A.2 has been worked, there are 275-300-312-351-392-420 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 14-14-14-17-19-19 cm = 5 1/2"-5 1/2"-5 1/2"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2" from marker (i.e. 16-16-17-20-22-22 cm = 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-8"-8 3/4"-8 3/4" from cast-on edge).
Work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 18-20-21-23-25-27 cm = 7"-8"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8" from marker. Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows:
Knit 38-42-44-50-58-63 (= ½ back piece), slip the next 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit 75-84-88-99-116-126 (= front piece), slip the next 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit the last 38-42-44-50-58-63 stitches (= ½ back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 167-184-200-223-256-276 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-12-12 new stitches under each sleeve (= in the side of body). There are now 83-92-100-111-128-138 stitches on front piece and 84-92-100-112-128-138 stitches on back piece.
Move the marker threads upwards when working; they are used when decreasing in the sides later.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of every marker thread - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4" 4-4-4-4-5-5 times in total = 151-168-184-207-236-256 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round until piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm = 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4" from division – or desired length (approx. 2 cm = 3/4" remain until finished measurements).
Knit 1 round while increasing 23-26-28-31-36-38 stitches evenly = 174-194-212-238-272-294 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 2 cm = 3/4". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Sweater measures approx. 39-41-43-45-47-49 cm = 15 1/4"-16 1/8"-17"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 62-66-68-76-80-84 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6, and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-12-12 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 70-74-80-88-92-96 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch in the round until sleeve measures 12-11-10-8-7-5 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/8"-4"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2" from division (approx. 5 cm = 2" remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length. Knit 1 round while decreasing 16-16-14-14-14-14 stitches evenly = 54-58-66-74-78-82 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP!
Sleeve measures approx. 17-16-15-13-12-10 cm = 6 3/4"-6 1/4"-6"-5 1/8"-4 3/4"-4" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 14.06.2021
Correction in diagram A.2.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = work 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit 1, but wait to drop the stitch worked off left needle, * 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch *, work from *-* 3-3-3-4-4-4 times in total, drop stitch worked off the needle.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round to avoid large holes.
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over stitch worked
symbols = work 3 stitches in same stitch as follows: Knit 1, but wait to drop the stitch worked off left needle, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch, drop stitch worked off the needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 222-32

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Comments / Questions (80)

country flag Ujwala Ajinkya wrote:

Thank you for the response but my concern still remains. Agree that at the end of 3rd row of A2 there would be 300 stitches. But at the end of row 9th row won’t there be only 285 stitches considering two decreases each on row 5 and 7 and one decrease on row 9. In that case going further down the number of stitches keeps varying from 300 and on certain rows does not fit into multiples of 12. Hope that I have expressed my concern appropriately.

11.08.2022 - 14:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ajinkya, the number of stitches in A.2 will alternately increase and decrease due to the triangle patterns ( see row 1-9 here and row 10 to 20 here - on row 20 you will get 8 sts in each A.2 again, then you will increase (see black star = 2 sts on row 21 and 2 sts on next to last row A.2 = 8+2+2=12 sts in each repeat). Happy knitting!

11.08.2022 - 16:21

country flag Ujwala Ajinkya wrote:

Appreciate your quick response. But for the medium size the 25 multiples of 12 stitches = 300 stitches doesn’t seem to be going right till the end of the pattern. I hope you get my concern. As the A2 pattern is worked the number of stitches keeps increasing or decreasing leaving certain rows with stitches which are not exact multiples of 25. Then how do we proceed?

10.08.2022 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ajinkya, in size M you start working 25 repeats of 8 sts in each A.2 (= 200 sts on the needle), you will increase and decrease in the diagram to shape the triangles and increase also (see black stars) so that there are 12 sts on the last row in each A.2, you then get 12 sts x 25 repeats = 300 sts. And you now work in stocking stitch. Look at the video section above (under the written pattern) you will see 2 videos showing how to work A.2, it might help you. Happy knitting!

11.08.2022 - 10:38

country flag Ujwala Ajinkya wrote:

For the medium size when A2 has been worked how does it work to 300 stitches as all through until then the number of stitches for the small and medium size was the same. Suddenly when A2 has been worked how does the number of stitches for small and medium differ?

10.08.2022 - 01:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Ajinkya, you don't work the same diagram in S and in M, if you start with 8 sts in both sizes, there are 11 sts at the end of A.2 in S and 12 sts at the end of A.2 in M, so that you will have in M 25 repeats of 12 sts = 300 sts (while you get in size S 25repeats of 11 sts = 275 sts). Happy knitting!

10.08.2022 - 09:11

country flag Sisse Soelberg Tiedt Vestergaard wrote:

Jeg vil gerne strikke denne fine top, men jeg er i tvivl om, hvilket bevægelsesrum, I anbefaler? Skal jeg gå efter det reelle brystmål, eller skal der helst være lidt plads?

18.07.2022 - 19:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sisse, det er en smagssag... jeg havde nok selv valgt lidt plads :)

02.08.2022 - 15:39

country flag Rosario Elias Liñero wrote:

Hola Quisiera preguntarte cómo coloco los hilos marcadores por ejemplo cada 25 puntos un hilo marcador? O cuantos pts son para manga espalda manga y delantero para colocar los marcadores ya hice el resorte, hago una vuelta de derecho para poner los hilos y empezar con los aumentos? Muchas gracias

03.05.2022 - 05:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Rosario, en el patrón solo ponen marcador para el inicio de la vuelta. Si quieres insertar marcadores para facilitar trabajar A.1, puedes insertar marcadores cada 16 puntos (o cualquier múltiplo de 4, que es el número de puntos en A.1). No tienes que trabajar ninguna fila extra después del resorte para insertar los marcadores, comienzas directamente con el diagrama y los aumentos. La división para la manga, espalda, manga y delantero se hace al final del canesú, después de los aumentos.

05.05.2022 - 22:16

country flag Helene wrote:

Hej jag vill att tröjan skall bli lite utställd som Dandelion Dreams och lika lång som den. Jag kommer sticka Swing by Spring Top i stl XXL och undrar hur många nystan jag behöver beställa. 8, 9 eller 10?

26.04.2022 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helene, så skal du nok bruge 10 nøgler. God fornøjelse!

26.04.2022 - 15:50

country flag Dominique Bruggmann wrote:

Merci de votre réponse. Ai-je bien compris ? vous proposez de faire la réhausse après le col ( cad après les côtes 1/1) ? mais alors faut-il la faire en jersey (mais alors on ne peut plus raccrocher A1 aux côtes 1/1) ou alors la faire en côte 1/1 ?

25.04.2022 - 20:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bruggmann, je pense qu'effectivement une réhausse serait plus discrète tricoté en côtes après le col, ainsi l'enchaînement avec A.1 se fera en douceur. Bon tricot!

26.04.2022 - 09:40

country flag Anna Laura Casu wrote:

Buongiorno. Sono Anna Laura da Cagliari. In riferimento al modello 222-32, ho difficoltà a capire il diagramma A.2 della taglia L. In particolare il passaggio dalla riga 3 in cui ci sono 8 maglie, al passaggio alla riga 4 in cui compaiono 12 maglie nonostante ci siano, nell intervallo, 2 diminuzioni (per una maglia accavallate e 2 maglie lavorate assieme) e 3 aumenti in una sola maglia

24.04.2022 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Anna Laura, per la taglia L nella riga 3 per il simbolo a stellina si lavorano 7 maglie in 1 maglia, ecco perchè cambia il n° di maglie. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2022 - 16:38

country flag Dominique Bruggmann wrote:

Bonjour, Je viens de terminer ce modèle que j'aime beaucoup et ai trouvé très agréable à tricoter. Mais l'encolure me gêne , j'aimerais le refaire avec une rehausse au dos de l'encolure, en rangs raccourcis (jamais fait ), est-ce possible, et si oui, comment. Merci de votre réponse

17.04.2022 - 19:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Bruggmann, vous pouvez effectivement choisir de tricoter une réhausse pour l'encolure dos à la fin du col (avant de commencer l'empiècement). Tricotez en rangs raccourcis le nombre de rangs souhaités pour la différence encolure dos/devant; vous pouvez vous aider d'un modèle de tension similaire avec une réhausse si besoin. Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 11:14

country flag Lilli-Ann Studsgaard wrote:

Jeg er gået i stå ved mønsteret forneden på kjolen hvor mønsteret skal strikkes efter A3, men jeg kan ikke se noget diagram A3. Er der noget jeg har misforstået? Vh Lilli-Ann

03.04.2022 - 08:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lilli-Ann. Om du har sett på oppskriften du har lagt dit spørsmål under er det oppskrift på en bluse (DROPS 222-32). Men om du ser på oppskrift 223-2 finner du oppskrift på kjolen og der vil du se diagram A.3. mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 - 13:34