DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Concerto

Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan, textured pattern and ¾-length, puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 222-39
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-130
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 01, white

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 60 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch/rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase on each side of the marker-stitch as follows: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn overs twisted. The new stitches are then worked in garter stitch.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 78 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 3) = 25.3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 25th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. Front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked back and forth until the sleeve cap is finished, then continued in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 81-81-84-88-94-94 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Insert a marker in the 20th-20th-20th-22nd-24th-24th stitch in from each side (= 41-41-44-44-46-46 stitches between marker-stitches). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.
Work GARTER STITCH – read description above, back and forth; at the same time on the first row increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker-stitches (= 4 stitches increased) - read RAGLAN. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 11-13-15-17-17-19 times = 125-133-144-156-162-170 stitches.
Knit 1 row back from the wrong side after the last increase. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The piece measures approx. 5-6-7-8-8-9 cm.
The next row is worked as follows (from the right side): Loosely cast off the first 31-33-35-39-41-43 stitches (= armhole), knit 63-67-74-78-80-84 (the first of these stitches in already on the right needle) and increase at the same time 1-0-0-3-7-11 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1, loosely cast off the last 31-33-35-39-41-43 stitches (= armhole). Cut the strand.
Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Continue back and forth over the 64-67-74-81-87-95 stitches on the front piece as follows from the right side: Work the stitches in diagram A.1 (= 3 stitches) as many times in width as there is room for, at the same time as new stitches are cast on at the end of every row in each side for armholes as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4-3-2-1-0-0 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-5-5 times and 5-7-7-7-9-11 stitches 1 time = 86-95-104-113-125-137 stitches. The new stitches are worked into A.1 as you go. Continue back and forth with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 25-26-27-27-28-29 cm from the armholes – adjust so you finish after a row with an arrow in the diagram. Work 1 row of stocking stitch where you increase 13-13-16-16-19-19 stitches evenly spaced = 99-108-120-129-144-156 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work rib (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The front piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 61-61-64-68-74-74 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Sky. Insert a marker in the 10th-10th-10th-12th-14th-14th stitch in from each side (= 41-41-44-44-46-46 stitches between marker-stitches). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm.
Work garter stitch back and forth, at the same time, on the first row, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker-stitches (= 4 stitches increased) – read RAGLAN. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 11-13-15-17-17-19 times = 105-113-124-136-142-150 stitches.
Knit 1 row back from the wrong side after the last increase. The piece measures approx. 5-6-7-8-8-9 cm.
The next row is worked as follows (from the right side): Loosely cast off the first 21-23-25-29-31-33 stitches (= armhole), knit 63-67-74-78-80-84 (the first of these stitches in already on the right needle) and increase at the same time 1-0-0-3-7-11 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1, loosely cast off the last 21-23-25-29-31-33 stitches (= armhole). Cut the strand.
Continue back and forth in garter stitch (1st row from the right side) over the 64-67-74-81-87-95 stitches on the back piece for 5 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Now work as follows from the right side: Work the stitches in diagram A.1 (= 3 stitches) as many times in width as there is room for, at the same time as new stitches are cast on at the end of every row in each side for armholes as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4-3-2-1-0-0 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-5-5 times and 5-7-7-7-9-11 stitches 1 time = 86-95-104-113-125-137 stitches. The new stitches are worked into A.1 as you go. Continue back and forth with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 25-26-27-27-28-29 cm from the armholes – adjust so you finish after a row with an arrow in the diagram. Work 1 row stocking stitch where you increase 13-13-16-16-19-10 stitches evenly spaced = 99-108-120-129-144-156 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work rib (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The back piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 26-28-28-30-32-32 stitches with short circular needle size 4 mm and Sky.
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 50-54-54-58-62-62 stitches. Purl 1 row back from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and edge stitches in garter stitch).
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch; at the same time at the end of every row cast on stitches for the sleeve cap as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 7-10-10-9-18-18 times and 2 stitches 5-3-4-5-0-0 times. At the end of the next row from the right side cast on 8-12-12-12-16-20 stitches = 92-98-102-108-114-118 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 36 cm from the cast-on edge work the next round as follows: Knit 8-8-9-9-6-7, knit the next 76-82-84-90-102-104 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 8-8-9-9-6-7 = 54-57-60-63-63-66 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 40 cm from the top down in all sizes.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the sleeves to the armholes inside the cast-off edges.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = make sure the pattern finishes on a row with an arrow
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 222-39

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Aud Olsen wrote:

Jeg strikker denne i str, XL. I oppskriften står det at det på ermene skal økes i SLUTTEN på hvær pinne 1 maske 9 ganger og 2 masker5 ganger. Dette blir 19 masker økt Med 58 masker fra før blir det 75 masker + 12 = 89. Skal være 108 så her mangler det 19 masker. Spørsmålet mitt er om det ikke skulle økes både først og sist på pinnen

05.09.2023 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Aud, 58+ 9+9+(2x5=10)+10+12= 108 masker :)

13.09.2023 - 15:30

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Quand on tricote le dos, après les diminutions et augmentations du point mousse, il reste 81 mailles en taille xl, il est indiqué qu’il faut tricoter ces mailles en allers et retours pendant 5 cm avant de changer pour l’aiguille 4 . Doit-on tricoter ces 5 cm au point mousse ? Ensuite, on continue en suivant le dessin et en faisant les augmentations comme pour le devant ?

27.06.2023 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Brigitte, tout à fait, bonne continuation!

28.06.2023 - 08:35

country flag Loes wrote:

Beste Marlé. Misschien kan ik je helpen: Het meerderen van 7x1 en 5x2 doe je beiderzijds, en daarmee kom je dan op 84 steken. Vervolgens meerder je eenmalig 8 steken voor de oksel. Daarmee kom je op 92 steken in totaal. Succes met verder breien, het gaat je zo vast en zeker lukken!

26.07.2021 - 23:21

country flag Marlé wrote:

Mouw, kleinste maat: na 2nld heb ik 50 steken, moet dan 7x 1 en 5x 2 steken bij maken. Dan kom ik toch op 67 steken; vervolgens 8 steken bij maken. Dan kom ik op 75 maar volgens het patroon zou ik er dan 92 moeten hebben. ????

25.07.2021 - 22:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marlé,

Je zet de steken aan beide kanten van de mouwen op, dus je hebt dan niet 67 steken, maar 84 steken. Ook als je daarna 8 steken erbij maakt, doe je dat aan beide kanten, dus nog 16 erbij en dan kom ik op 90 steken (in plaats van 92, zie ik, dus daar zit toch een kleine afwijking, die zal ik doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling).

19.08.2021 - 14:12

country flag Marie Azé wrote:

Mille merci pour votre patience et la rapidité de votre réponse ;

31.05.2021 - 08:25

country flag Marie Azé wrote:

Pour le modèle Summer Concerto , au point mousse , quand vous dîtes tous les deux rangs est-ce 2 aller /retour ou encore un rang au point mousse est-ce un aller /retour ou 1 rang est un aller 1 rang est le retour ?

30.05.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie Azé, lorsque l'on augmente tous les 2 rangs on va augmenter tous les rangs sur l'endroit (= 1 rang sur l'endroit en augmentant, 1 rang sur l'envers sans augmenter). Bon tricot!

31.05.2021 - 08:00

country flag Marie Azé wrote:

Bonjour , pour le modèle Summer concerto : quand on commence le devant et donc , le point fantaisie , faut-il lire le diagramme de haut en bas : commencer par 2 rangs endroits puis 1 rang envers ou le lire de bas en haut dont commencer par 2 mailles envers 1maille endroit 2mailles envers etc ; Merci de votre réponse .

20.05.2021 - 20:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Azé, le diagramme se lit de bas en haut et de droite à gauche sur l'endroit/de gauche à droite sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

21.05.2021 - 07:43

country flag Birgitte Høft Larsen wrote:

Nogen fornuftig grund til at forstykket er 20 masker større end bagstykket?jeg strikker STR xxxl

24.04.2021 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitte, det er fordi halsudskæringen er dybere foran end bagpå. God fornøjelse!

28.04.2021 - 13:42

country flag Anne Marie wrote:

This is a must have - so nice and romantic.

13.01.2021 - 10:28

country flag Julie wrote:

Country charm

11.01.2021 - 04:45