DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Super Sale

Mint Breeze

Knitted jumper in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is knitted bottom up with lace pattern on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 220-21
DROPS design: Pattern bs-162
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 7402, light sea green

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch and lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch/lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm: For rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
Discontinued
find alternatives

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 232 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 40) = 5.8.
In this example decrease by knitting alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch and every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle, from the bottom and up to armholes. Cast off for armholes. Then work back piece and front piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work the sleeves in the round on double pointed needles / a short circular needle, bottom up to where sleeve cap begins. Then work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle. Sew piece together on the shoulders and sew sleeves in. Work a neck edge in garter stitch at the end.

BODY:
Cast on 232-256-276-304-340-376 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Continue rib like this for 6 cm. When rib has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 40-44-48-52-56-64 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 192-212-228-252-284-312 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round, and 1 marker thread after 96-106-114-126-142-156 stitches (= the sides). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increases later in the sides on body. Work in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4-4-4-4-5-5 cm 5 times vertically in total in each side = 212-232-248-272-304-332 stitches. Continue to work until piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm. Now cast off for armhole, i.e. work next round as follows - begin 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches before marker thread at the beginning of round: Cast of the first 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches for armholes, work 100-110-118-128-144-158 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches for armhole (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), and then work the remaining 100-110-118-128-144-158 stitches as before (= back piece). Finish back and front piece separately as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
= 100-110-118-128-144-158 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch back and forth on circular needle, and cast off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 0-0-0-3-3-3 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 2-3-4-4-6-7 times and 1 stitch 2-3-4-5-5-6 times = 88-92-94-96-98-100 stitches remain.
When piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm, cast off the middle 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue with stocking stitch and cast off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 22-23-23-23-23-23 stitches remain on shoulder. Work until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 100-110-118-128-144-158 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch back and forth on circular needle, and cast off for armholes at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 0-0-0-3-3-3 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 stitches 2-3-4-4-6-7 times and 1 stitch 2-3-4-5-5-6 times = 88-92-94-96-98-100 stitches remain.
When piece measures 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm, slip the middle 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Continue with stocking stitch and cast off for neck at the beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-23-23-23-23-23 stitches remain for shoulder. Work until piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm. Loosely cast off by knitting from right side. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 80-88-88-96-96-96 stitches on double pointed needles 2.5 mm with Baby Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 2/purl 2) for 6 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 1-1-1-5-5-5 stitches evenly = 81-89-89-101-101-101 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Work pattern as follows: 4-8-8-1-1-1 stitches stocking stitch, A.1 over the next 26-26-26-39-39-39 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repetitions of 13 stitches), A.2 (= 4 stitches), A.3 (= 13 stitches), A.1 over the next 26-26-26-39-39-39 stitches (= 2-2-2-3-3-3 repetitions of 13 stitches), A.2, 4-8-8-1-1-1 stitch in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern until sleeve measures 21-22-21-21-19-18 cm, but finish round when 3 stitches remain before marker thread. NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
On next round cast off the first 6-6-6-6-6-6 stitches, then work pattern as before the rest of row. Then sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle as follows: Continue A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before and cast off for sleeve cap at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 1 stitch 12 times in each side = 51-59-59-71-71-71 stitches. Continue with A.1, A.2 and A.3 until piece measures 29-30-30-31-31-32 cm. Work all stitches together 2 by 2, on next row cast off all stitches. Sleeve measures approx. 30-31-31-32-32-33 cm from top and down. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-off edge. Sew in sleeves inside 1 edge stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 96 to 120 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Alpaca Silk.
Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH over all stitches– see explanation above, then cast off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.03.2022
FRONT PIECE:
= 100-110-118-128-144-158 stitches.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Tilla wrote:

Meneekö hihan ohje tosiaan : sileät, A1 (2-3 kpl), A2, A3, A1 (2-3kpl), A2, sileät eikä sileät, A1 (2-3 kpl), A2, A3, A2, A1 (2-3kpl), sileät?

08.03.2024 - 16:47

country flag Baida wrote:

Bonjour, y a t il une erreur ou est ce qu'il faut vraiment faire autant de diminutions à la fin des côtes dans le tricot dos et devant. Merci

08.05.2023 - 23:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Baida, aucune erreur, il faut bien diminuer autant de mailles pour conserver les mesures souhaitées. Il faut en effet plus de mailles en jersey avec les aiguilles 3 qu'en côtes avec les aiguilles 2,5 pour la même largeur. Bon tricot!

09.05.2023 - 07:41

country flag Helen Kirby wrote:

Please explain what you mean concerning the sleeve cap. Work all stitches together 2by2

27.04.2023 - 00:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Helen, All the stitches are worked together along the row; work the first 2 stitches together, then the next 2 stitches together and so on. On the next row, cast off. Happy knitting!

27.04.2023 - 06:49

country flag Patricia Kirby wrote:

What do you mean work together all stitches 2 by 2 on sleeve cap

27.04.2023 - 00:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kirby, knit 2 together accross the last row from RS to divide the remaining number of stitches in 2 - you will create the puff-effect like this. Happy knitting!

27.04.2023 - 08:29

country flag Birgitta wrote:

Det finns ingen möjlighet att få ärmkupan att räcka till. ärmkupan är mycket för liten i förhållande till ärmhålet. Hur gör jag ?

26.03.2023 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Birgitta, sørg for at ikke lukke af for stramt, så skal ærmet passe ind i ærmegabet :)

12.04.2023 - 07:42

country flag Eva Nielsen wrote:

Kan det passe at selve ærmekuplen ikke skal måle mere end 10 cm? Der lukkes af til ærmegabnår arbejdet måler 21 cm og afsluttes når arbejdet 31 cm fra toppe og ned. Dette er en str L

18.04.2022 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Eva, du måler ærmekuplen hele vejen rundt, fra du lukker af, langs med de første indtagninger og så videre hele vejen rundt :)

20.04.2022 - 15:32

country flag Ditte wrote:

Er der en særlig grund til, man skal strikke 4 m r sammen og slå om to gange, når der tages ind i siderne? Giver det ikke det samme resultat som at strikke to masker sammen før og efter markøren?

20.03.2022 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ditte, jeg kan ikke finde hvor du er i opskriften. Du tager ud i siderne ved at lave omslag på hver side af 4 masker ret :)

22.03.2022 - 13:16

country flag Suzan wrote:

Na de verdeling voor- en achterpand blijven er 128 steken over voor elk pand. Maar aan het begin van het voorpand staat 130 steken. Wat zie ik over het hoofd? (Maat XL)

15.01.2022 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Suzan,

Dit moet inderdaad 128 zijn en niet 130. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling om aan te passen. Hopelijk kun je nu verder.

16.01.2022 - 14:10

country flag DECOTTIGNIES BRIGITTE wrote:

COMBIEN DE PELOTES DE LAINE POUR CE MODELE ?

19.05.2021 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Decottignies, vous trouverez toujours la quantité indiquée au poids pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête, autrement dit, il faut ici en taille S par exemple 300 g DROPS Baby Alpaca Silk/50 g la pelote = 6 pelotes. Utilisez notre convertisseur si vous souhaitez voir la quantité dans une autre alternative. Bon tricot!

19.05.2021 - 15:54

country flag Gerdine wrote:

Wanneer komt het patroon uit? Zit er met smart op te wachten.

18.03.2021 - 22:23