DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.95 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 223-43
DROPS Design: Pattern no-043
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
Shoe-size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm. Leg height: approx. 15-15-15 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 03, pearl grey

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.95 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.90€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased over (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 12) = 6. 
In this example decrease by knitting together each 5th and 6th stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for heel):
To strengthen the heel you can use 2 strands on the heel and heel-decrease as follows: Use the strand from the inside and outside of the ball, and work 1 stitch with first the one strand, then the other. This gives you a slightly thicker heel, without using a double strand.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 8-8-8 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 8-8-8 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-7-7 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7-7-7 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
Continue to decrease like this, working until there is 1 stitch less each time before slipping a stitch and until there are 14-14-16 stitches left on the needle.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCK – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

SOCK:
Cast on 72-72-80 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Nord. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2½-3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 12-12-14 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 60-60-66 stitches. Work A.1 (= 10-10-11 repeats of 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue working until the piece measures approx. 15 cm from the cast-on edge in all sizes; finish after a complete repeat of A.1 in height. The next round is worked as follows: Place the first 23-24-25 stitches on a thread (= top of foot), keep the next 33-31-35 stitches on the needle for the heel and place the last 4-5-6 stitches on the thread (= a total of 27-29-31 stitches on the thread).

Read KNITTING TIP and work stocking stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm, AT THE SAME TIME, on the first row, decrease 5-3-5 stitches evenly spaced = 28-28-30 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the last row – it will be used to measure the foot length.
Now work HEEL DECREASE – read description above! After the heel decrease work the next round as follows: Knit the 14-14-16 heel stitches, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of the heel, insert 1 marker, knit 1-2-3 stitches, work A.2A over the next 3 stitches, A.2B over the next 18 stitches (= 3 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.2C (= 4 stitches), knit 1-2-3 stitches, insert 1 marker and knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side of the heel = 67-71-79 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and A.2 over the 25 stitches on top of the foot.
AT THE SAME TIME, decrease on each side of the 27-29-31 stitches on top of foot as follows: Knit together the last 2 stitches before the first marker and knit twisted together the first 2 stitches after the second marker.
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 8-8-10 times = 51-55-59 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the marker on the heel (there is approx. 4-5-6 cm left to finished length; try the sock on and work to desired length).
Remove all the old markers, apart from the marker on the heel, and insert 2 new markers on each side so there are 26-28-30 stitches on top of the foot and 25-27-29 stitches underneath (the markers are used when decreasing for the toe).
Work stocking stitch over all stitches and decrease for the toe as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), knit 2 twisted together. Repeat at the other marker (= 4 stitches decreased on the round).
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 5-7-11 times, then every round a total of 5-4-0 times = 11-11-15 stitches.
On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-6-8 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The sock measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from the marker on the heel. Work the other sock in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Linda wrote:

Hej , Opfølgning på Natalias spørgsmål. jeg forstår heller ikke hvordan man ikke skal klippe tråden? Hvordan kan man strikke frem til hælen, det er jo midt på foden hvor der er mønster? Ødelægger det ikke mønsteret? Eller skal man strikke mønster de første masker frem til hælen? På forhånd tak. MVH Linda

15.11.2023 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Linda. Du kan klippe tråden og deretter strikker hælen ferdig, slik den er forklart i oppskriften. Om du velger å ikke klippe tråden, men strikke frem til hælmaskene (da etter diagram A.2) må du passe på at nå er 1. omgang av diagram A.2 strikket på de 23-24-25 første maskene når du skal strikke videre etter hælfellingen. mvh DROPS Design

20.11.2023 - 08:14

country flag Carita wrote:

Onko A1 kuvio oikein mallipiirustuksessa? Kolmas kerros mietityttää minua, sillä piirustuksen mukaan neulottaessa kuvio "liikkuu".

27.10.2022 - 11:23

country flag Ginette wrote:

Combien d aiguilles pour ce modèle.? Merci

05.08.2022 - 17:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Ginette, il vous faut pour ces chaussettes un set de 5 aiguilles doubles pointes - ou bien une aiguille circulaire de 80 cm pour tricoter en magic loop. Bon tricot!

08.08.2022 - 08:21

country flag Nataliia wrote:

Hei! Jeg kom til hæl: Neste omgang strikkes slik: Sett de første 23-24-25 maskene på en tråd (= midt oppå foten), behold de neste 33-31-35 maskene på pinnen til hæl, og sett de siste 4-5-6 maskene på tråden (= totalt 27-29-31 masker oppå foten). Må jeg klippe trå?

18.09.2021 - 17:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nataliia, Du kan strikke de første maskene før du setter dem på en tråd. Da har du garnet klart til å strikke hælen. God fornøyelse!

20.09.2021 - 12:59

country flag Dorrit Jensen wrote:

Ingen pt

29.08.2021 - 11:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorrit. Hva mener du med ingen pt? Om du trenger hjelp til oppskriften, legg igjen et spørsmål om hva problemet er/hvilken størrelse du strikker og evnt mer nyttig informasjon. mvh DROPS design

30.08.2021 - 13:11

country flag Sanna wrote:

Dreamy lace

20.01.2021 - 13:27

country flag Laila wrote:

Kivat kesäsukat

19.01.2021 - 23:32

country flag Grace Escamilla wrote:

Nunca he hecho calcetines pero podría empezar con este modelo, lindos!

18.01.2021 - 21:54

country flag Anne Marie wrote:

Beautiful summer socks

13.01.2021 - 10:32

country flag In wrote:

Sunday

08.01.2021 - 08:44