DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 5.50 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 93.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Manitoba Mingle

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked in English rib with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-32
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-325
Yarn group C + C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-110-116-130-136-150 cm = 41"-43 3/8"-45 3/4"-51 1/4"-53 1/2"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 23, coral reef
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 02, wheat
50-50-100-100-100-100 g color 07, ruby red
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-75-75-75-100-100 g color 07, red
50-75-75-75-75-100 g color 08, heather

KNITTING GAUGE:
6 stitches in width with English rib and 2 strands Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 cm = 4”.
9 stitches in width and 12 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 2 strands Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 10 MM = US 15: Length 60 = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for English rib and stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16” for neck.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 5.50 CAD /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 93.60CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

STRIPES:
Color A: 2 strands wheat Air + 1 strand heather Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Color B: 2 strands coral reef Air + 1 strand red Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Color C: 2 strands ruby red Air + 1 strand heather Brushed Alpaca Silk.

KNITTING TIP:
If you are not sure which color to use on the next row, when working 2-colored English rib, you can find the color of the previous row by looking at the edge stitches.

ONE-COLORED ENGLISH RIB (worked with color A – read STRIPES above):
2 rows of English rib give 1 visible stitch in height.
ROW 1 (= right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl (insert right needle from right to left in stitch on left needle) *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before the edge stitch, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before the edge stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3 (= right side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 onwards.

2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB IN COLORS A + B or COLORS B + C:
2 rows of English rib give 1 visible stitch in height.
ROW 1 (= right side and worked with color B):
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Push the stitches back to the other end of the needle so the next row is also worked from the right side. Change color - read KNITTING TIP.
ROW 2 (= right side and work with color A or C):
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before the edge stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn the piece and change color.
ROW 3 (= wrong side and worked with color B):
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch, purl together the yarn over and slipped stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Push the stitches back to the other end of the needle so the next row is also worked from the wrong side. Change color.
ROW 4 (= wrong side and worked with color A or C):
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left before the edge stitch, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Turn the piece and change color.
Repeat rows 1-4 onwards.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease alternately at the beginning and end of the row as described below.
DECREASE AFTER THE EDGE STITCH AT THE BEGINNING OF THE ROW:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE BEFORE THE EDGE STITCH AT THE END OF THE ROW:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the edge stitch and knit 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections and bottom up. The whole garment is worked with 2 strands Air + 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands from yarn group C).
The front and back pieces are worked with one-colored and 2-colored English rib in stripes. All the stitch numbers given in the text do not include the yarn overs in the English rib, as they are counted together with their respective slipped stitches.
The sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch. The piece is sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 31-33-35-39-41-45 stitches with circular needle size 10 MM = US 15 and 2 strands wheat Air + 1 strand heather Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands).
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit.
Then work as follows:
Work ONE-COLORED ENGLISH RIB – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 19-20-20-21-22-22 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4", work 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB IN COLORS A + B – read description above and read KNITTING TIP!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15", bind off 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes (remember the yarn overs are not counted as stitches) = 27-29-31-31-33-33 stitches left. Continue with 2-colored English rib and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

When the piece measures 38-40-40-42-44-44 cm = 15"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-17 1/4", work 2-COLORED ENGLISH RIB IN COLORS B + C – read description above.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", bind off the middle 5-5-7-7-7-7 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern as before and bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 9-10-10-10-11-11 stitches left. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Knit 1 row from the right side. Bind off with knit from the wrong side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The back piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 31-33-35-39-41-45 stitches with circular needle size 10 MM = US 15 and 2 strands wheat Air + 1 strand heather Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands).
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work back from the wrong side with garter stitch over garter stitch, purl over purl and knit over knit.
Then work as follows:
Work 1-colored English rib in the same way as on the back piece.
When the piece measures 19-20-20-21-22-22 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4", work 2-colored English rib in colors A + B in the same way as on the back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm = 13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15", bind off 2-2-2-4-4-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes = 27-29-31-31-33-33 stitches left. Continue with 2-colored English rib as before and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

When the piece measures 38-40-40-42-44-44 cm = 15"-15 3/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 1/4"-17 1/4", work 2-colored English rib in colors B + C.
When the piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm = 17 1/4"-18"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20 1/2", place the middle 5-5-7-7-7-7 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 9-10-10-10-11-11 stitches. Continue working until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4". Knit 1 row from the right side. Bind off with knit from the wrong side. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The front piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams, edge to edge so the seam is flat.

SLEEVES:
Knit up from the right side 38-40-42-44-44-46 stitches around the armhole and inside the edge stitches on the body, using circular needle size 10 MM = US 15 and 2 strands coral reef Air + 1 strand red Brushed Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands).
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the sleeve measures 3-3-3-7-7-10 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-4" from the knitted-up stitches, insert 1 marker in each side. The length from the knitted up stitches to the markers should be the same length as the armholes.
When the piece measures 3-3-2-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" from the markers, decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the row – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4" a total of 6-7-7-8-7-8 times, alternating between decreasing at the beginning and end of the row = 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches left.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-46-45-42-41-39 cm = 18"-18"-17 3/4"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4" from the markers. There is 1 cm = 3/8" left to finished length; try the sweater on and continue to desired length.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Bind off with knit from the right side. The sleeve measures approx. 50-50-49-50-49-50 cm = 19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 3/4" from the knitted up stitches. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bottom of the armholes – the markers on the sleeve should match the front and back pieces. Sew the sleeve seams and the side seams in one go – start at the bottom of the sleeve and sew up to the armhole, then down the side seam – sew in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

NECK:
Start from the right side, on the one shoulder, and knit up 40 to 48 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread in front) with short circular needle size 8 MM = US 11 and 2 strands ruby red Air + 1 strand heather Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1), adjusting so the rib matches the stitches mid front with knit over the knitted English rib stitches and purl over the purled English rib stitches.
When the neck measures 3 to 4 cm = 1 1/8" to 1 1/2", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Anne wrote:

Hallo, wenn bei Rücken- und Vorderteil an den Schultern nur noch rechts gestrickt werden soll, ist das dann Farbe B oder Farbe C? Und werden die beiden Schulterseiten, die noch im Patent gestrickt werden, am Halsausschnitt auch Randmaschen gearbeitet? Vielen Dank

03.01.2024 - 21:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anne, stricken Sie mit Farben B (die Farbe der rechts gestrickene Maschen, von der Vorderseite gesehen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.01.2024 - 08:27

country flag GERARD wrote:

Modele Manitoba Mingle DOS Côtes anglaises bicolores : 1er rang sur l’endroit coloris B OK 2ème rang sur l’endroit coloris A : *1 jeté, glisser 1 maille à l’ENVERS :ce n’est pas possible elle est à l’endroit. Je ne comprends pas comment faire. Merci de votre aide

05.01.2023 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gerard, le 2ème rang se tricote aussi sur l'endroit, et la 1ère m des côtes anglaises a été tricotée (ensemble à l'endroit avec son jeté) au début du 1er rang sur l'endroit en coloris B, cette maille va maintenant être glissée en faisant 1 jeté avec le coloris A/C . Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter des côtes anglaises bicolores: on tricote alternativement 2 rangs sur l'endroit et 2 rangs sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

06.01.2023 - 08:51

country flag Carolin wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke gerade die Ärmelabnahmen. Soll ich in Größe M in jeder Reihe 2 M abnehmen sodass ich nach 7 Mal auf 26 Maschen komme oder in jeder Reihe nur eine Masche sodass ich erst nach 14 Mal auf 26 Maschen komme? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe im Voraus

08.10.2022 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Carolin, in M sollen Sie die Abnahmen in jeder 2. cm stricken ; messen Sie 2 cm bei der Ärmel so wissen Sie wieviele Reihen Sie dafür brauchen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.10.2022 - 08:45

country flag Marie Garpefjäll wrote:

När jag har stickat storlek xl så mäter tröjan 44 cm på bredden längst ner. Jag har använt stickor 10. Jag brukar ha storlek Medium. Nu får jag börja om igen? Det stämmer ju inte alls med storlek?? Besviken 😢

17.09.2022 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marie. Arbeid i helpatent er meget tøyelig. Om du strikker i str. XL skal du legge opp 39 masker og i følge strikkefastheten og målskissen skal dette bli ca 65 cm. Anbefaler deg å strikke en prøvelapp for å sjekke strikkefastheten din. Om det kun er oppleggskanten som strammer, prøv å legg opp litt løsere. mvh DROPS Design

19.09.2022 - 11:37

country flag Chokolade Hennings wrote:

Hej, jeg har et spørgsmål om strikkefastheden i patent. Jeg kan overhovedet ikke komme i nærheden af 10 cm med 6 m. Jeg har prøvet p 8-9-10-12. I opskriften står p 10 som vejledende, men jeg har for mange m på de 10 cm på alle de forskellige pindestørrelser. Jeg tæller både ret og vrang som 1 m , men er nu kommet i tvivl om det er rigtigt og jeg måske kun skal tælle retmaskerne ,for så passer det fint med p 9. Med venlig hilsen Charlotte Hennings

28.09.2021 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte. Du ska telle både ret og vrang, men det kan vara litt vanskligt att måle stickfasthet i patent eftersom det är så elastiskt. Om du får riktig stickfasthet i glattstrik så ska det gå fint. Mvh DROPS Design

05.10.2021 - 13:54

country flag Pia Hansen wrote:

Jeg kunne godt tænke mig at strikke den i grønne farver, hvilke vil I anbefale ? Mvh Pia

19.09.2021 - 19:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pia. Det är väldigt individuellt vilka nyanser man önskar, men vi har fina färger i skogsgrön och salvia både i DROPS Air (nr 30 och 19) och DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (nr 21 och 11 ) som du skulle kunna använda. Mvh DROPS Design

22.09.2021 - 11:10

country flag Lene Sørensen wrote:

Jeg har købt garn til denne trøje i grønne farver, men kan ikke finde ud af hvordan jeg skal mixe dem. kan I være behjælpelig? fredag på 24626510

26.08.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lene. Det er litt vanskelig, vi vet jo ikke hvilken grønnfarger du har kjøpt. Men farge 23 korallrev er lysere enn farge 07 rubin rød. Da kan du erstatte farge 23 med den lyseste grønnfargen og farge 07 med den mørke grønn fargen. Kid-Silk farge 07 rød og farge 08 lyng har ca samme styrke, så da må du velge de fargene du syns passer best. mvh DROPS design

27.08.2021 - 14:04

country flag Pia Wettergren wrote:

Hvilket garn kan jeg skifte Air med ?

09.08.2021 - 21:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pia, Du kan velge hvem som helst garn fra gruppe C (samme gruppe som Air). Det er lurt å strikke en prøvelapp uansett, for å sjekke strikkefastheten før du begynner; justere pinnestørrelsen hvis nødvendig. God fornøyelse!

10.08.2021 - 08:20

country flag Mia Fahlén wrote:

I själva beskrivningen verkar det som om det går åt 4 resp3 resp 1 resp 3 resp 3 nystan. När jag ska beställa ett kit i stl M verkar det bli färre nystan. Vilket är rätt?

27.07.2021 - 14:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mia, ja det stemmer som du skriver i str M. Hvad mener du med at det bliver færre nystan.... Hvor bliver det færre... ?

05.08.2021 - 14:31

country flag Laila wrote:

Näissä ruusun väreissä oikein ihana kesäillan lämmittäjä

19.01.2021 - 23:35