DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Buttercream Swirls

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with cables and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 221-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-926
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-106-110-122-134-148 cm = 37 3/4"-41 3/4"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"-58 3/8"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-350-350-400-450 g color 100, off white
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g color 38, chalk

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.


DROPS BUTTONS, Marble NO 629: 5-6-6-6-6-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 5, 15, 25, 35 and 45 cm = 2", 6", 9 3/4", 13 3/4" and 17 3/4"
M: 5, 13, 21, 29, 38 and 47 cm = 2", 5 1/8", 8 1/4", 11 3/8", 15" and 18 1/2"
L: 5, 13, 22, 31, 40 and 49 cm = 2", 5 1/8", 8 3/4", 12 1/4", 15 3/4" and 19 1/4"
XL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41 and 50 cm = 2", 5 1/2", 9", 12 1/2", 16 1/8" and 19 3/4"
XXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 42 and 52 cm = 2", 5 1/2", 9", 12 1/2", 16 1/2" and 20 1/2"
XXXL: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 54 cm = 2", 5 1/8", 8 1/4", 11 3/8", 14 1/2", 17 3/4" and 21 1/4"

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 175 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 45) = 3.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch and make 1 yarn over. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.4.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, as far as the armholes, then the piece is divided and the front and back pieces are finished separately. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.
The jacket is worked with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands).

BODY:
Cast on 175-191-199-215-239-263 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib as follows – from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and work 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 45-45-45-53-53-53 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 220-236-244-268-292-316 stitches. Continue as follows – from the right side:
Sizes S-M-L:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, A.1 (= 4 stitches), purl 4, A.2 (= 8 stitches), purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3 (= 8 stitches), purl 2, A.4 over the next 29-37-41 stitches (start and finish with knit 1), purl 2, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 2, A.4 over the next 29-37-41 stitches (start and finish with knit 1), purl 2, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 4, A.1, purl 2, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Sizes XL-XXL-XXXL:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 2, A.1 (= 4 stitches), purl 4, A.2 (= 8 stitches), purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3 ( = 8 stitches), purl 4, A.1, purl 2, A.4 over the next 37-49-61 stitches (start and finish with knit 1), purl 2, A.1, purl 4, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 4, A.1, purl 2, A.4 over the next 37-49-61 stitches (start and finish with knit 1), purl 2, A.1, purl 4, A.2, purl 4, A.1, purl 4, A.3, purl 4, A.1, purl 2, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Continue this pattern onwards, working BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2" bind off for the armholes as follows – from the right side: Work pattern as before over the first 55-59-61-67-73-79 stitches (= right front piece), bind off the next 6 stitches for the armhole, work pattern as before over the next 98-106-110-122-134-146 stitches (= back piece), bind off the next 6 stitches for the armhole, work pattern as before over the last 55-59-61-67-73-79 stitches (= left front piece). Each piece is finished separately, back and forth. Place the first and last 55-59-61-67-73-79 stitches on threads for the front pieces and work the back piece (98-106-110-122-134-146 stitches).

BACK PIECE:
= 98-106-110-122-134-146 stitches. Continue the pattern and bind off for the armholes at the beginning of the rows on each side as follows: 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-5-7 times = 90-94-96-102-108-112 stitches. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", work the next row as follows – from the right side: Work as before over the first 27-25-25-27-29-30 stitches, work the next 36-44-46-48-50-52 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 2 stitches in each A.1 and 4 stitches in each A.2/A.3, then work the last 27-25-25-27-29-30 stitches (a total of 10-14-14-14-14-14 stitches decreased). On the next row bind off the middle 26-30-32-34-36-38 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. Continue working until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", decrease 2 stitches in A.1 and 4 stitches in A.2/A.3 (6-4-4-4-6-6 stitches decreased) = 21-21-21-21-23-24 stitches left on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8". Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the first 55-59-61-67-73-79 stitches back on needle size 5 MM = US 8 and continue the pattern. Bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the wrong side: 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-5-7 times = 51-53-54-57-60-62 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-55 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8", decrease 2 stitches over the first 2 repeats of A.1 (towards mid front), and 4 stitches in A.2. On the next row from the right side place the first 14-16-17-18-19-19 stitches on a thread (work them first). Then bind off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-3 times = 25-25-25-27-29-30 stitches left. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", decrease 2 stitches in A.1 (in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL) and 4 stitches in A.3 = 21-21-21-21-23-24 stitches left. Bind off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8".
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Place the last 55-59-61-67-73-79 stitches back on needle size 5 MM = US 8. and continue the pattern. Bind off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the right side: 2 stitches 1-2-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-5-7 times = 51-53-54-57-60-62 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-55 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8", decrease 2 stitches over the last 2 repeats of A.1 (= towards mid front), and 4 stitches over A.3. On the next row from the wrong side, place the first 14-16-17-18-19-19 stitches on a thread (work them first). Then bind off stitches on each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2-2-2-2-2-3 times = 25-25-25-27-29-30 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm = 20"-21"-21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24", decrease 2 stitches in A.1 (in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL) and 4 stitches in A.2 = 21-21-21-21-23-24 stitches. Bind off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8".

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked bottom up, with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The piece is then divided for the sleeve cap and finished back and forth.
Cast on 40-42-44-46-48-50 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Change to double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit 1 round where you increase 13 stitches evenly spaced = 53-55-57-59-61-63 stitches. Then continue as follows: A.4 over the first 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches, purl 2, A.1 (= 4 stitches), purl 4, A.3 (= 8 stitches), purl 4, A.1 (= 4 stitches), purl 2, A.4 over the last 12-14-14-16-16-18 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the first stitch on the round (mid under sleeve).

Continue the pattern, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 10 cm = 4”, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-stitch – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3½-3-3-2½-2-1½ cm = 1 1/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1"-3/4"-1/2" a total of 10-11-12-13-15-16 times = 73-77-81-85-91-95 stitches. When the piece measures 45-44-44-43-42-40 cm = 17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 3/4", bind off 3 stitches each side of the stitch with the marker thread and the stitch with marker thread (= 7 stitches bind off under sleeve) and finish the sleeve back and forth. Bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on both sides as follows: 2 stitches 3 times, 1 stitch 1-2-2-3-4-6 times. Then bind off 2 stitches on each side until the piece measures 52 cm = 20 1/2" in all sizes, bind off 3 stitches 1 time, AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off the last time, decrease 4 stitches in A.3 and 2 stitches in A.1. On next row bind off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 53 cm = 21" in all sizes. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

NECK:
Start mid front from the right side and knit up 91 to 101 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads), divisible by 2 + 1 and using circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib as follows – first row worked from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1 * work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = bobble: Knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 3 stitches), work 5 rows of stockinette stitch over these 3 stitches, on row 6 knit all 3 stitches together = 1 stitch.
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Vladi Zelina wrote:

Je vous remercie.

07.02.2023 - 11:20

country flag Vladi Zelina wrote:

Bonjour 2 mailles envers, A.1 (= 4 mailles), 4 mailles envers Ces mailles à l'envers comment sont tricotées aux rangs d'envers?

07.02.2023 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Zelina, les mailles tricotées à l'envers sur l'endroit se tricotent à l'endroit sur l'envers (= mailles en jersey envers). Bon tricot!

07.02.2023 - 10:38

country flag Claudia wrote:

Salve, è possibile lavorare le maniche dall'alto verso il basso riprendendo le maglie?... non amo molto cucire le maniche!! se sì, anzichè aumentare procedo all'inverso diminuendo? grazie mille! buon lavoro! ;-)

24.10.2021 - 09:39

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Claudia, può apportare le modifiche che preferisce alla lavorazione delle maniche, e può farsi assistere dal suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia nella riprogettazione del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

24.10.2021 - 20:12

country flag Nicole wrote:

If were decreasing the stitches for the front right piece, are we working away from the garter stitch or to the garter stitch? Which row do we place the 14 stitches on?, starting from the garter border or from the arm hole? Do we bind off from the garter stitch side that will create a shaping? What can I do if my needle is facing the opposite side from where im supposed to start? Right now my back piece is finished and I am starting to bind off for the front right piece.

09.05.2021 - 01:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, for the neck shaping, it is best to put the stitches for the neck on the needles on the row where you are knitting AWAY, from the mid front. You can avoidcutting and reattaching the yarn, if you knit the stitches first, and then put them on a stitch-holder / piece of yarn (including the garter stitches for the band), and then in the following rows do the decreases at the front edge according to the pattern. Happy Knitting!

09.05.2021 - 13:48

country flag Nicole wrote:

Is A.4 a 3x1 rib?

23.04.2021 - 01:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole,, A.1 pattern is a "broken" rib, , in 1st row: knit all stitches, in 2nd row: K1, P1. Happy Knitting!

23.04.2021 - 03:01

country flag Nicole wrote:

If i am starting the body part after the ribbing, do I start at the bottom of the diagrams like A1? Or do I start with making the cables?

22.04.2021 - 17:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, after the ribbing, you should start at the bottom row of the diagrams, according to the descriprions. The first row in each diagram consist only knit stitches. Happy Knitting!

22.04.2021 - 18:20

country flag Laura wrote:

Nautic Enchantment

17.01.2021 - 22:37

country flag Laura wrote:

Summer Breeze

17.01.2021 - 22:36

country flag Laura wrote:

By The Sea

17.01.2021 - 22:35

country flag Julie wrote:

Links to the sea

11.01.2021 - 04:50