DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Sparrow Song Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Nord. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, leaf pattern and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 223-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no no-041
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g colour 07, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nord
DROPS Nord
45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.90£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 121 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 25) = 4.4. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher when working the yoke, work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row. Start from the right side and knit 16-17-18-20-21-22 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 32-34-36-40-42-44 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-51-54-60-63-66 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 64-68-72-80-84-88 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 80-85-90-100-105-110 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 96-102-108-120-126-132 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to the end of the row, turn and purl back (the bands are worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in the text.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approximately 1½ cm. The other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes are worked with approx. 8-8-8½-7½-8-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 121-125-129-135-139-145 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Nord. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left, work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern until A.1 has been completed – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
Knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase 25-31-42-44-46-46 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 146-156-171-179-185-191 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and band stitches worked in garter stitch).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row – the yoke is measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until there are 6 stitches left (= 27-29-32-28-29-30 repeats of 5-5-5-6-6-6 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and increase as shown in the diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.2 has been completed in height, there are 362-388-427-459-475-491 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 15-15-15-17-17-17 cm from the marker on the neck.
Continue with A.3 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME, on the first row from the right side in A.3, increase 9-11-4-22-26-40 stitches evenly spaced = 371-399-431-481-501-531 stitches.
Work A.3 until the yoke measures approx. 19-21-23-24-26-28 cm from the marker on the neck, finishing after a complete repeat in height.
Knit 1 row from the right side. Then knit 1 row from the wrong side, AT THE SAME TIME as the yoke is divided for body and sleeves as follows: Knit 58-63-67-75-79-85 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 74-78-86-96-98-100 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit 107-117-125-139-147-161 stitches (= back piece), place the next 74-78-86-96-98-100 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), knit the last 58-63-67-75-79-85 stitches (= left front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 235-255-275-305-325-355 stitches. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.4A until there are 10 stitches left (= 22-24-26-29-31-34 repeats of 10 stitches), work A.4B (= 5 stitches) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern until the piece measures 29 cm from the division. There is approx. 1 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Cast off with knit from the right side – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 74-78-86-96-98-100 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the stitches cast on under the sleeve = 80-84-94-104-108-112 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work in the round as follows: 0-2-2-2-4-1 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4A over the next 80-80-90-100-100-110 stitches (= 8-8-9-10-10-11 repeats of 10 stitches) and 0-2-2-2-4-1 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue this pattern until the sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from the division. Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 15-16-19-23-24-25 times = 50-52-56-58-60-62 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 43-42-40-41-39-38 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke).
There is approx. 1 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 2 RIDGES– read description above. Cast off with knit – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-42-42-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.05.2021
Diagram A.2A, sizes S-M-L: Increases on row 5, 9, 13 and 17 are moved to make row with bobble symmetrical towards mid front.
Updated online: 09.11.2021
Correction buttonholes.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over (leaves a hole)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row knit/purl the yarn over twisted as shown in the diagram (avoids hole)
symbols = Bobble: Knit 1 in both the front and back of the same stitch until there are 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased). Turn, work 4 rows of stocking stitch back and forth over these 5 stitches. Then pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the first, the 3rd stitch over the first, the 4th stitch over the first and finally pass the 5th stitch over the first stitch (= 4 stitches decreased)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = purl 2 twisted together
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Fischer wrote:

Hallo, ich habe diese Jacke genau nach Anleitung gestrickt, am Ende 2 Krausrippen und beim abketten festgestellt, dass sie sich ganz furchtbar einrollt. Wie wurde es am Modell vom Foto gelöst oder gibt es noch einen speziellen Tipp?

06.01.2023 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Fischer, Sie können die Jacke mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen.

09.01.2023 - 08:40

country flag Adriana Biersack wrote:

Entschuldigen Sie, die Erleuchtung kam dann noch bezüglich der Zunahmen. Ich habe jedoch eine Musterprobe gestrickt und die Blätter kamen kraus rechts raus, am Bild sind sie aber glatt rechts. Für meine Begriffe stimmt hier die Grafik nicht und die Rückreihen müssten hier doch 'umgedreht werden', oder nicht?

27.11.2022 - 08:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Biersack, die Blätter sollen glatt rechts gestrickt (= rechte Maschen bei den Hinreihen und linke Maschen bei den Rückreihen = leeres Kästchen); und um herum die Bläter stricken Sie glatt links (= linke Maschen bei den Hinreihen, rechte Maschen bei den Rückreihen) - Siehe Diagramerklärungen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 10:45

country flag Adriana Biersack wrote:

Hallo, in der Anleitung steht bei der Passe man solle wie im Diagramm gezeigt zunehmen. Jedoch verstehe ich nicht, wo da nun die Zunahmen sein sollen. Vielleicht können Sie mir helfen?

25.11.2022 - 18:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Biersack, als Antwort für Ihren Kommentar sind alle Reihen im Diagram gezeichnet, die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen; Hinreihen lesen Sie rechts nach links, Rückreihen lesen Sie links nach rechts. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.11.2022 - 08:37

country flag Kathrin Melziarek wrote:

Liebes Team, muss ich die Masche von A.2B auch in der Rückreihe als erste Masche vor A.2A stricken? Liebe Grüße, Kathrin Melziarek

17.03.2022 - 13:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Melziarek, wenn Sie die Rückreihen mit A.2 stricken, stricken Sie so: 5 Blenden-Maschen, A.2B, jetzt wierdeholen Sie die 6 M in A.2 (links nach rechts lesen) und dann 5 Blenden-Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.03.2022 - 17:15

country flag Johanna wrote:

Stehen die Diagramme A2B auf dem Kopf oder muss man sie von unten nach oben stricken? Falls sie von unten nach oben gestrickt werden, fängt man wirklich so an? Dann hätte man zweimal eine Lochreihe vor den Noppen und Blättern, aber auf dem foto sieht das ganz anders aus. Oder lässt man die unteren 14 Reihen weg, aber dann fehlen ja zunahmen?

01.11.2021 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Johanna, alle Diagramme werden von unten nach oben gestrickt, es sind ja 2 Lochreihen, 1 beim A.1 und 1 beim A.2, genauso wie gezeichnet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.11.2021 - 07:53

country flag Annerose Scheurer wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe die Wolle bei LindeHobby gekauft und komme nun mit dem Diagramm nicht klar. Bin erst bei der 5 Reihe und hänge vollkommen in der Luft. Wenn ich das so stricke wie beschrieben, habe ich nur rechte, bzw. linke Maschen auf der Nadel, außer der Blende. Bei A.1A ist die erste Hinreihe rechte Maschen, Rückreihe linke Maschen. Auf dem Foto sieht das aber aus wie kraus rechts. Was mach ich falsch? Liebe Grüße Annerose

10.10.2021 - 10:44

Annerose Scheurer answered:

Meine Frage hat sich erledigt. Nach zwei Tassen Kaffee kam die Erleuchtung 💡. Sorry 🙈

10.10.2021 - 13:00

country flag Barby wrote:

I think there is an error under the buttonholes explanation.. It reads: “The first buttonhole is in the lace pattern on the neck, so this buttonhole is not worked”. However, the buttonhole is in the band that is in garter stitch and therefore no lace hole.

28.09.2021 - 22:15

country flag Moutaz wrote:

How is the stitch increase during knitting for sweaters from top to down?

15.09.2021 - 19:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Moutaz, each pattern has a different rate of increases built in, for this particular piece into the pattern on the yoke. You will have to read the pattern, and see the diagrams. Happy Knitting!

16.09.2021 - 00:09

country flag Moutaz wrote:

كيف يتم تزويد القطب اثناء عمل التريكو للكنزات من الاعلى الى الاسفل؟؟؟

14.09.2021 - 10:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moutaz, we can unfortunately only answer in English or in one of the languages the pattern is available, is it possible for you to ask your question in one of these languages? Thanks for your comprehension!

14.09.2021 - 16:09

country flag Amada Herrera wrote:

Quisiera tejer este patrón con una lana tipo C pero no se como hacerlo. Gracias por su apoyo.

26.08.2021 - 07:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Amada, lamentablemente, no podemos ajustar nuestros patrones a ninguna solicitud individual. Si necesita ayuda individual, comuníquese con la tienda donde compró el hilo, incluso por correo o teléfono. ¡Happy knitting!

27.08.2021 - 08:59