DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Pink Peony

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern and short sleeves. Sizes 3-14 years.

DROPS Baby & Children 38-21
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-024-bn
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Equivalent to the child’s height in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200-200-250-300 g colour 54, powder pink

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.75 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.25€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Find your size in the diagram.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 3.8. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch (approx.). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then for the sleeves and finally for the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-92-96-100 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino.
Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 22-22-26-26-26-26 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 106-110-118-118-122-126 stitches.
Knit 1 round; yarn overs knitted twisted. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.

YOKE:
The beginning of the round is the transition between right shoulder and back piece. Insert 1 marker after the first 35-36-41-41-42-43 stitches (= approx. mid-front) – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. The markers are used when increasing and should be of a different colour to the marker on the neck.
Marker 1: Insert the marker before the first stitch on the round (= back side of right shoulder when garment is worn).
Marker 2: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are now 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches left on round after marker 4 (= back piece).

Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS:
Read the whole of the next section before continuing!
Piece is now worked with A.1 over the stitches on front piece and back piece (see diagram for your size), and stocking stitch over the stitches on saddle shoulder/sleeves.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of sleeve stitches remains the same.
Increase like this every round a total of 12-16-20-22-24-26 times = 154-174-198-206-218-230 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The increased stitches are worked into A.1. When A.1 is finished in height, continue pattern the same way upwards (A.2 shows 1 repetition of pattern), make sure that A.2 fits over the stitches from A.1. After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below.

INCREASES FOR SLEEVES:
Continue with stocking stitch over the stitches on the sleeves, and continue pattern as before on front piece and back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on the next round increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4. You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 13-17-15-16-18-19 times = 206-242-258-270-290-306 stitches. The piece measures approx. 12-16-15-17-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck.

INCREASES FOR YOKE:
Now increase 1 stitch on each side of all 4 markers as follows:
Work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch before the marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch after the marker.
Work to markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch before the marker, move the marker to the right needle, work 1 stitch and increase 1 stitch after the marker (= 8 stitches increased). You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves.
The increased stitches are worked into A.2 on the back/front piece and in stocking stitch on the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 5-2-2-1-0-0 times = 246-258-274-278-290-306 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 15-17-17-18-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct length. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Place the first 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches (= in the side, under the sleeve), work as before over the next 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= front piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches (= in the side, under the sleeve), and work as before over the last 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 158-166-178-186-194-206 stitches.
Work A.2 as before; the stitches which do not fit into A.2 in the sides are worked in stocking stitch.
Continue working until the piece measures 12-12-15-16-17-17 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and continue to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you increase 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches evenly spaced = 194-202-214-226-238-250 stitches. NOTE: You increase stitches here to prevent the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jumper measures approx. 34-36-40-42-44-46 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 5-6-10-13-15-17 cm from the division,
There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 9-10-14-17-19-21 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = increase for saddle-shoulder
symbols = increase for sleeve
symbols = increase for yoke
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Josephine wrote:

Hallo. Es geht mir um den Abschnitt der Sattelschulter-Zunahmen. Für die größte Größe heißt es, 26x die Zunahmen bis 230 Maschen erreicht sind. Dann ist angegeben, dass A1 in der Höhe zu Ende gestrickt wird. Wenn ich die 26 Zunahmen und 230 Maschen erreicht habe, fehlen noch 4 Runden bis A1 beendet ist. Auch die Länge von ca. 9 cm ist noch nicht erreicht. Stricke ich diese Runden ohne Zunahmen und fange dann mit den Ärmelzunahmen an?

26.04.2023 - 21:26

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Josephine, wenn A.1 fertig in der Höhe ist wird dann A.2 gestrickt, Beachten Sie nur, daß A.2 schön auf A.1 passt damit das Muster genauso in der Höhe sowie in der Breite wierdeholt wird. Wenn die 9 cm noch nicht erreicht sind, stricken Sie bis die Arbeit 9 cm misst (ohne Zunahmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.04.2023 - 08:13

country flag Riri wrote:

Noch eine Frage. Ist das Diagramm kopfüber dargestellt?

15.03.2022 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Riri, Diagram lesen Sie von unten nach oben (wie immer) - hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.03.2022 - 10:19

country flag Riri wrote:

Hallo! Ich arbeite gerade an gr 5/6 von diesem schönen Muster. leider habe ich probleme. Ich dachte laut des Diagrams dass ich mit dem muster ab Reihe 8 anfangen soll. Auf dem Bild sehe ich dass es direkt unter der Halsblende anfängt (?!) das wäre die erste Frage. Welche Reihe unter der Halsblende fängt das Muster an? und 2.te Sache. In der 8 Reihe habe ich dann 55 Maschen (39 + 16 Zunahmen) Man braucht 14 für das Muster. Ich komme mit der Einteilung gar nicht klar. Vielen Dank f. d. Hilfe

15.03.2022 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Riri, in Größe 5/6 stricken Sie die 39 Maschen in A.1 ab der 1. Reihe wie im Diagram gezeichnet, dann stricken Sie die Zunahmen bei jeder Reihe wie im Diagram: glatt rechts bis die 11. Reihe wo Sie diese Maschen im Lochmuster stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.03.2022 - 10:25

country flag Sabine wrote:

Guten Tag, kann ich, wenn die Maschenprobe kleiner ausfällt als in der Anleitung, mit den dafür verwendeten Nadeln und der Wolle einfach eine oder zwei Größen größer stricken, ohne etwas umzurechnen? Danke

23.01.2022 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabine, dieses Modell wurde für eine Maschenprobe von 23 M x 32 R glatt rechts = 10 x 10 cm geschrieben, sollten Sie diese Maschenprobe nicht haben, dann sollen Sie entweder mit anderen Nadeln versuchen (hier lesen Sie mehr) oder die Anleitung neu umrechnent um Ihre Maschenprobe anzupassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.01.2022 - 09:38

country flag Zena wrote:

Hi. Cast on Peony jumper on 2.5mm 80cm circular as recommended but cannot join in the round as cord to long. This is my first in the round jumper. What should I do? Is this the wrong circular needle? Thank you.

03.08.2021 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Zena, It sounds like you are knitting the smaller sizes, which need the 60 cm circular needle. Happy knitting!

03.08.2021 - 08:40

country flag Kristiina Taaramäe wrote:

Tere. Varrukatel tehtavate kasvatuste osa on valesti tõlgitud. Peaks olema mitte enne 1. ja 3. , vaid peale 1. ja 3. Ning mitte peale 2. ja 4., vaid enne 2. ja 4. Ehk vastupidiselt õlgade kasvatustele.

28.05.2021 - 15:17