DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

White Meadow

Knitted jumper in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked with cables, double neck and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 220-7
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-124
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Due to the textured pattern, the garment will be approx. 6-7 cm smaller than the measurements in the sketch, but it is elastic and will fit your normal size.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g colour 01, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-125-150 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
14 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sides):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, purl 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread).
On the next round purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then purl the new stitches. 

DECREASE TIP (for armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease on the inside of the 3 edge stitches.
After the 3 edge stitches: Purl 2 stitches twisted together
Before the 3 edge stitches: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the 3 edge stitches and purl 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes. The front and back pieces are then finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round, with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the sleeve cap, which is then finished back and forth. The piece is sewn together and the neck worked to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 120-128-140-156-172-188 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 60-64-70-78-86-94 stitches (= sides of body). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards – they are used when increasing in the sides.
The next round is worked as follows: * Purl 5-7-10-9-13-17, work A.1A (= 8 stitches), A.1B over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repeats of 10 stitches), A.1C (= 12 stitches), purl 5-7-10-9-13-17, marker thread *, work from *-* 1 more time. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 3 cm, change to circular needle size 7 mm. Continue the pattern.
When the piece measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat the increase when the piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm = 128-136-148-164-180-196 stitches.
When the piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm, before starting the cables, increase stitches as follows on the next round: * Purl 7-9-12-11-15-19, work A.2A (= 8 stitches), A.2B over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repeats of 10 stitches), A.2C (= 12 stitches), purl 7-9-12-11-15-19, marker thread *, work from *-* 1 more time = 148-156-168-188-204-220 stitches.
The next round is worked as follows: * Purl 7-9-12-11-15-19, work A.3A (= 10 stitches), A.3B over the next 36-36-36-48-48-48 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repeats of 12 stitches), A.3C (= 14 stitches), purl 7-9-12-11-15-19, marker thread *, work from *-* 1 more time. Continue this pattern until A.3 has been completed in height; NOTE! The armholes are worked at the same time.

ARMHOLES:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, work 2 ridges over 12-12-12-12-14-16 stitches in each side (= 6-6-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of both marker threads – the other stitches are worked as before). NOTE: Adjust so the first round of the ridges is an odd row in the pattern, to avoid working cables from the wrong side when working back and forth.
After the 2 ridges, cast off for the armholes on the next round as follows: Cast off the first 3-3-3-3-4-5 stitches, work 68-72-78-88-94-100 stitches as before, cast off 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches (marker thread is in the middle of these 6-6-6-6-8-10 stitches), work 68-72-78-88-94-100 stitches as before and cast off the last 3-3-3-3-4-5 stitches. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Back and front pieces are finished separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-72-78-88-94-100 stitches.
Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side, towards the armholes.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch on each side for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 1-3-6-5-8-11 times.
NOTE! In sizes XXL and XXXL decreases for armhole continues even after A.3 has been completed. Continue with A.4 over A.3 until all stitches for armholes have been decreased - the stitches that are not decreased yet are purled from the right side and knitted from the wrong side until they are decreased, then continue the pattern as described below.

PATTERN AFTER THE ARMHOLES:
When A.3 has been completed in height and all the decreases for the armholes are finished, there are 58-58-58-68-68-68 stitches and the pattern is continued from the right side as follows:
3 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.4A (= 10 stitches), A.4B over the next 30-30-30-40-40-40 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 repeats of 10 stitches), A.4C (= 12 stitches) and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.

NECKLINE:
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm, cast off the middle 20-20-20-22-22-22 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 68-72-78-88-94-100 stitches.
Start from the wrong side and work in the same way as the back piece until the piece measures 42-44-46-47-49-51 cm. Now place the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches on 1 thread for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue the pattern and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast of 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3 times = 17-17-17-21-21-21 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 36-40-40-40-44-44 stitches with double pointed needles size 6 mm and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm. Work 1 round where you knit in the front and back loops of all stitches (the number of stitches is doubled) = 72-80-80-80-88-88 stitches.
Change to short circular needle size 7 mm and work stocking stitch in the round with 1 strand Kid-Silk. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the sleeve measures 37-37-37-34-34-33 cm, cast off for the sleeve cap as follows (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap): Start 3 stitches before the beginning of the round and cast off 6 stitches, work stocking stitch to the end of the round. The sleeve cap is finished back and forth. Continue with stocking stitch and cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3-4-5-5-6-7 times on both sides. Then cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row until the sleeve measures 44-45-46-43-44-45 cm = approx. 52-58-56-56-62-60 stitches left. On the next row from the right side knit all stitches together, 2 and 2. Loosely cast off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edges. Sew in the sleeves – the garter stitch edge along the armhole should lie on the outside of the sleeve; sew in the outermost loop of each outermost garter stitch so there are no gaps.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up 72 to 80 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the thread in front) with short circular needle size 6 mm and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). The number of stitches should be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down; to avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = increase 1 stitch by knitting in both the front and back loops of the same stitch
symbols = from wrong side: purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = from wrong side: purl 2 twisted together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Anja wrote:

Voor maat L is 125 g kid silk niet voldoende om de mouwen te breien. Er is 150 g nodig

20.02.2024 - 17:31

country flag Margaret Spencer wrote:

Thank you for your quick response but I still don’t understand why the pattern needs 570 metres of one yarn and 840 m of another if they are being worked together

23.11.2023 - 16:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Margaret, the sleeves are worked only with one thread of Kid-Silk (aside from the cast-on edge and initial rib). That's why you will need more metres of Kid-Silk than Sky. Happy knitting!

26.11.2023 - 18:33

country flag Margaret Spencer wrote:

I love the look of this pattern and would like to make it but I’m not sure what materials to order. If it is made holding one strand of kidsilk and one strand of sky why does it need 840m I.e. 4 balls of kidsilk and 570m 3 balls of sky?

23.11.2023 - 15:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Spencer, you have to work with 2 different yarns worked together as there were just one, this means you need DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. In size S for example, you will need 150 g Sky / 50 g a ball = 3 balls and 100 g Kid-Silk/25 g= 4 balls, you need then 3 balls Sky + 4 balls Kid-Silk. Happy knitting!

23.11.2023 - 15:53

country flag Kerstin Kaljusaar wrote:

Finns det någon video på hur man syr i ärmen?

28.03.2023 - 18:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, Nej desværre, kanten skal ligge udenpå ærmet :)

13.04.2023 - 14:07

country flag Linnea wrote:

Hei! Spørsmål om mengde garn. Det står 150 g Sky, så jeg har nå kjøpt tre nøster. Når jeg ser på White Meadow Top, står det 150 g på den også. Hvordan er det mulig når denne genseren har ballongarmer? Går det virkelig ikke mer enn 3 nøster? (Str s)

04.10.2021 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linnea. Ärmarna stickas med kun 1 tråd Kid-Silk (vrangborden stickas med 1 tråd Sky och 1 tråd Kid-Silk sammen), det är därför det inte är mer Sky i denna oppskrift. Mvh DROPS Design

06.10.2021 - 09:40

country flag Sofia wrote:

Hej, När jag läser igenom beskrivningen tolkar jag det som att mönstret man ser på framstycket även stickas på bakstycket, stämmer det? Jag vill endast sticka mönstret på framstycket och sticka bakstycket i slätstickning. Jag läser att mönstret gör att stickningen drar ihop sig 6-7 cm och undrar då om jag behöver minska antalet maskor när jag lägger upp för fram- och bakstycket?

30.08.2021 - 10:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sofia. Om du ønsker glattstrikk på bakstykket må du regne ut hvor mange færre masker du skal legge opp på bakstykket. Det kan du regne ut fra strikkefastheten du får på glattstrikk i kvaliteten(e) du skal strikke med. Desverre er dette noe design avd ikke kan ta seg tid til å regne om. God Fornøyelse!

06.09.2021 - 11:30

country flag Linda wrote:

Hej jeg er nybegynder i strik. I opskriften står der at det er vigtigt at starte på en ulige p når man starter til ærmegab. En ulige p er det ment som fra vr siden?

22.03.2021 - 00:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, første omgang skal være 1. eller 3. eller 5. pind i diagrammet for at få snoningerne på retsiden :)

22.03.2021 - 15:55

country flag Pernille wrote:

Er der en fejl i opskriften? Der står, at man skal strikke 4 pind ret, inden man lukker af til ærmer. Men på rundpind bliver det så glatstrik. På billedet ser det ikke sådan ud

06.03.2021 - 19:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernille, de sidste 4 pinde inden du lukker af til ærmegab strikkes i retstrik over selve ærmegabs maskerne. retstrik når du strikker rundt = hver 2.p ret og hver 2.p vrang :)

08.03.2021 - 14:36

country flag Halfers Renate wrote:

Ik ben bezig met de minderingen voor de armsgaten. Het achterpand begint met 68 steken. Ik maak maat S. Nu staat er dat ik 1 keer 2 steken moet minderen maar uiteindelijk zou ik op 58 steken uit moeten komen, wat betekent dat ik 5 keer zou moeten minderen. Wat moet ik doen? Wat lees ik fout? Graag uw antwoord.

03.03.2021 - 19:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Renate,

Je mindert inderdaad voor maat S slechts 1 steek aan elke kant, waardoor je 66 steken hebt. Maar aan het eind van patroon A.3 heb je 10 steken in plaats van 12 steken. Hierdoor kom je op 58 steken uit. Je doet dus niks fout, maar er komen nog minderingen in het telpatroon.

09.03.2021 - 20:20

country flag Els Scheir wrote:

Love this one.can't wait for the patorn to come out

08.02.2021 - 21:58