DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.70CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Strawberry Mousse

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 220-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-320
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-102-114-126-136-148 cm = 37 3/4"-40"-45"-49 1/2"-53 1/2"-58 3/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-450-500 g color 24, pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 8.95 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 53.70CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 32 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 28) = 1.1.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth and sewn together to finish. The back piece is 4 cm = 1 1/2" longer than the front piece.
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle as far as the armhole, then the sleeve cap is finished back and forth.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 86-93-103-113-123-133 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Size S:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, knit 1, purl 2, A.1 over the next 60 stitches (= 2 repeats of 30 stitches), work the first 21 stitches in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Go to ALL SIZES.

Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, A.1 over the next 90-90-90-120-120 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4 repeats of 30 stitches), work the first 0-11-21-0-11 stitches in A.1, knit 1-0-0-1-0 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat the first 4 rows in the diagram until the rib measures 9 cm = 3 1/2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Now continue onwards in the diagram (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches decreased on the next row) = 78-84-93-102-111-120 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
When the diagram has been completed in height, continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm = 15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17", bind off stitches at the beginning of each row for the armholes as follows: Bind off 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-3-3 times on both sides = 70-72-75-78-83-86 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the armhole measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm = 6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (the piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/2" from the cast-on edge), bind off the middle 32-34-35-36-37-38 stitches for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. On the next row from the neck, bind off 1 stitch = 18-18-19-20-22-23 stitches. When the armhole measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4" (the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm = 22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"-26 3/4" from the cast-on edge), bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 86-93-103-113-123-133 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern in the different sizes as follows:

Size S:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, A.1 over the next 60 stitches (= 2 repeats of 30 stitches), work the first 21 stitches in A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Go to ALL SIZES.

Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 90-90-90-120-120 stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4 repeats of 30 stitches), work the first 0-11-21-0-11 stitches in A.1, knit 1-0-0-1-0 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
Repeat the first 4 rows in the diagram until the rib measures 5 cm = 2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side. Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Now continue onwards in the diagram (= 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches decreased on the next row) = 78-84-93-102-111-120 stitches.
Continue the pattern back and forth.
When the diagram has been completed in height, continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
When the piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm = 13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4", bind off stitches at the beginning of each row for the armholes as follows: Bind off 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-3-3-4 times and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-3-3 times on both sides = 70-72-75-78-83-86 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the armhole measures 11-12-13-13-14-15 cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6" (the piece measures approx. 45-47-49-50-52-54 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4" from the cast-on edge), place the middle 18-20-21-22-23-24 stitches on a thread for the neck. Each shoulder is finished separately. On each row from the neck, bind off stitches as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 18-18-19-20-22-23 stitches. When the armhole measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4" (the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the cast-on edge), bind off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 36-36-39-39-42-42 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 2) in the round for 5 cm = 2". The next round is worked as follows: Knit 16-16-16-16-19-19, work A.2 over the next 4 stitches, knit the last 16-16-19-19-19-19 stitches. Work 1 more round with this pattern and increase, at the same time, 28-32-31-33-30-32 stitches evenly over the knitted stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 64-68-70-72-72-74 stitches.
Change to short circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9.
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the knitted section (= mid under the sleeve) with 30-32-33-34-34-35 knitted stitches on each side of the thread. A.2 is middle top of the sleeve. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards; it is used later. Continue with A.2 and stockinette stitch.
Sizes S, M and L, go to ALL SIZES.
Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2 cm = 3/4" a total of 1-2-3 times = 74-76-80 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue working until the sleeve measures 53-52-50-48-47-46 cm = 21"-20 1/2"-19 3/4"-19"-18 1/2"-18".
Bind off 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve (= 3-3-4-4-5-6 stitches on each side of the marker thread).
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch, at the same time as you bind off stitches for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row as follows:
Bind off 2-2-1-1-1-1 stitches 1-2-4-6-7-9 times, then 5-5-5-5-4-4 stitches 2-2-2-2-2-1 times on each side = 34-34-34-34-36-42 stitches. Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 56 cm = 22" in all sizes.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch – back piece is 4 cm = 1 1/2" longer than the front piece. You can leave a split at the bottom of each side along the ribbed section if you wish (= 9 cm = 3 1/2" on the back piece and 5 cm = 2 3/8" on the front piece). Sew the sleeves to the body inside the 1 edge stitch – see sketch.

NECK:
Knit up 87-90-90-93-93-96 stitches inside the 1 stitch around the neckline, with short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air. Work rib (knit 1, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 27.10.2022
Correction in A.1

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = this square has no stitch, as it was decreased earlier; go to next symbol in diagram
symbols = Back piece is 4 cm = 1 1/2" longer than front piece
symbols = Sleeve cap is sewn to the armhole as follows: Sew a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Natalie Ghys wrote:

Beste, Bij het vormen van de mouwkop zijn er een aatal minderingen voorzien. Is het de bedoeling dat je die enkel aan de goede kant van het werk afkant ( dus om de andere naald) of moet er ook in de averechte naald afgekant worden? Dank bij voorbaat, Natalie

19.03.2023 - 16:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Natalie,

Je kant steken af aan het begin van elke, dus zowel aan de goede als de verkeerde kant.

21.03.2023 - 21:20

country flag Annika wrote:

Hej, stämmer verkligen diagrammet A1, rad 17, maska 4-6? Om man stickar så blir det ju tre hål i rad, och det ser inte ut att överensstämma med bilden. Jag provade att sticka så, och det såg konstigt ut.

24.10.2022 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annika, tak for info! Det stemmer rad 15 skal se ud som rad 11. Vi skal få opdateret diagrammet :)

25.10.2022 - 14:00

country flag Lillian wrote:

Er maskeantall som strikkes opp til halskant ved slutten i tillegg til eller inkludert de som man satt av på en tråd i halsfellingen?

19.06.2022 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lillian. De 87-90-90-93-93-96 maskene er nok alle halsmaskene (de som strikkes og de som er satt på en tråd). mvh DROPS Design

20.06.2022 - 14:39

country flag Surmann wrote:

Hallo, ich verstehe beim Ärmel nicht nach dem man die untere Ärmelmitte =6 Maschen weiterstrickt. Da ist ja dann eine "lücke". Ich müsste dann ja getrennt weiter stricken oder wie? Und wie vernäht man das dann?

02.02.2022 - 08:28

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Surmann, diese 6 Maschen unter der Ärmel werden zusammen mit den abgekettene 6 Maschen beim Rumpfteil (3 beim Rückenteil + 3 beim Vorderteil). Vielleicht kann Ihnen dieses Video helfen?

02.02.2022 - 09:07

country flag Raili wrote:

Kuinka on mahdollista, että luodaan 113 silmukkaa ja neulotaan ensimmäinen kierros nurin. Miten seuraavalla kierroksella onkin jo 120 silmukkaa?!?!

17.08.2021 - 19:07

country flag Inge wrote:

Ik zie het antwoord al: maat S wordt niet genoemd dus staat de telling van XL nu op de derde plaats ipv op de vierde. Poeh, je moet wel heel goed opletten:)

21.02.2021 - 10:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Inge,

Mooi dat je het gevonden hebt en bedankt voor de terugkoppeling. Veel breiplezier!

23.02.2021 - 13:13

country flag Inge wrote:

Zet 113 steken op (maat XL). En dan bij alle maten: A.1 over de volgende 120 steken? Dat begrijp ik niet, waar moet er dan worden gemeerderd?

21.02.2021 - 09:51

country flag Annika wrote:

Sweet Rosie

16.01.2021 - 10:20

country flag Terri wrote:

Heather

09.01.2021 - 18:01

country flag RoffaDame wrote:

V-Hal’s of polo-nek zou ook wel eens leuk zijn. (zoveel hoge ronde nekken)

09.01.2021 - 09:44