DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Bronze Summer Sweater

Knitted jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with raglan and lace pattern on sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 221-3
DROPS design: Pattern ai-314
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 02, wheat

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 cm, and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 1 stitch in stocking stitch (stitch with marker) in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 90-94-98-102-106-110 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Air. Knit 1 round. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) over all stitches for 3 cm. Switch to circular size 5 mm and insert 1 marker here, now measure piece from here.

Insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 22-24-26-28-30-32 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches remain on row after last marker thread (= half back piece).
Work in stocking stitch over stitches on front piece and on back piece, and A.1 (= 21 stitches) over stitches on each sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME on first round start increase for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – read explanation above. Continue increases for raglan every other round. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically there are 122-126-130-134-138-142 stitches on round. Continue with A.2 (= 25 stitches) over stitches in A.1 with stocking stitch over front piece and back piece, and continue with increase for raglan every other round until increase has been done 22-25-27-29-33-36 times in total on each side of the 4 stitches with marker threads = 274-302-322-342-378-406. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase in raglan work without increases until piece measures 20-23-25-27-31-34 cm from marker.

Work next round as follows:
Work the first 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next
69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the remaining 34-38-41-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 27-26-26-26-24-23 cm from division. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work rib (= purl 1/knit 1) over all stitches. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 75-81-85-91-101-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working, it is used for decrease later. Begin round at the marker thread and continue with A.2 and stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1-1 cm 10-11-13-16-19-21 times in total = 55-59-59-59-63-67 stitches. Continue until piece measures 38-35-34-32-29-26 cm from division - or desired length (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Work 1 round while decreasing 11 stitches evenly over stitches in A.2 = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use double pointed needles size 4 mm). Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over twisted. It should not make a hole.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over. It should make a hole.
symbols = KNIT 5 STITCHES TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass them back on left needle, pass the next to last stitch over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased), pass the last stitch worked back on right needle.
symbols = KNIT 5 STITCHES TWISTED TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass next to last stitch worked over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased).
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (124)

country flag Anna wrote:

Hej! Hur tänker ni att man ska fortsätta arbetet när man har ökat raglan 29 (strl XL) gånger? Ska det alltså stickas utan raglan en bit innan jag tar av för ärm? Ska jag sticka alla maskor - halvt bakstycke, ärm (A2), framstycke, ärm (A2) och halv bakstycke - tills det mäter 27 cm (XL) från markör och SEN efter det plocka av maskor för ärmar? Eller ska jag direkt efter sista ökning för raglan ta av för ärmar?

05.03.2024 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anna. Etter siste økning til raglan (du har da 342 masker) fortsetter du videre som før, slik du skriver over (halvt bakstycke, ärm (A2), framstycke, ärm (A2) och halv bakstycke ) til arbeidet måler 27 cm fra merket. mvh DROPS Design

11.03.2024 - 08:55

country flag Ajla Hamzic wrote:

Hej, Jag får inte ihop maskantalet efter övningarna. Jag stickar storlek L, började med 98 m, som fördelas 13+1+21+1+26+1+21+1+13. Sen ökar jag 4 maskor i början på A1. Plus 8m x 27 ökningsvarv (=216). Så 98+4+216 = 318. Men enligt mönstret ska jag ha 322. Vart missar jag 4 maskor? Jag såg samma fråga i en annan kommentar men förstår inte svaret, känns som att 4m räknas med 2 gånger.

27.02.2024 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ajla. Kom ihåg att A.1 stickas över varje ärm så du ökar 4 m på ena ärmen för A.1 och 4 på den andra. 98+8+216=322. Mvh DROPS Design

28.02.2024 - 07:49

country flag Helena wrote:

När jag stickar A1 varv 1 har jag 21 maskor till ärmen. Med raglan ökar jag till 23 inom ärmen, men enligt mönstret ska jag ha 25. Det går inte ihop. Har sett att ni svarat någon ovan att man ökar 4 maskor på varv 1, men två av dem hamnar på fram resp bakstycket, inte ärmen.

15.02.2024 - 13:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Helena, de 4 masker du tager ud ifølge A.1 havner i A.1 så der nu er 25 masker :)

23.02.2024 - 10:57

country flag Sofie Beyers wrote:

Na het breien van rij 1 van telpatroon A1 eindig je met een R. Je moet echter ook met een R beginnen in rij2. Maar dan komen de R over elkaar en de AR ook. Volgens het telpatroon is dit niet. Verder zit je dan al met 17 steken tussen de 2 AR steken. Je meerdert in het midden van het patroon maar de steken moeten er langst de buitenkant bij?

24.01.2024 - 21:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sofie,

In de eerste naald van A.1 meerder je 4 steken in totaal, waardoor je op 25 steken komen. De 2 averecht van de volgende naald aan beide kanten, komen boven de averechte steken van de eerste naald.

28.01.2024 - 19:17

country flag Karin wrote:

Hei Jeg har strikket i mange år og føler med dreven, men på møsnter A1 forstår jeg ikke hvordan det skal gjøres. Det mangler jo masker for å få andre omgang til å gå opp. Blir ikke klok av forklaringen som er gitt de andre med samme spørsmål heller. Håper dere kan gi en god beskriveles i str. M og kanskje endre på oppskriften da mange ikke forstår hva som menes. Mvh Karin

13.01.2024 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, jo, på første (nederste) pind i A.1 laver du 4 omslag ifølge diagrammet, så du får 25 masker, så du kan fortsætte diagrammet ned over ærmet. Plus at du samtidig tager ud til raglan, det gør du før og efter hver raglan overgang = 8 udtagninger til raglan.

16.01.2024 - 12:13

country flag Minna Avrin wrote:

Jag har från början 98 maskor, stlk L. Att öka 8 vartannat varv ger 24 m under A1 plus de 4 som ska ökas på första varvet i A1, ger totalt 126 maskor. Men enligt mönstret ska jag ha 130 maskor när A1 stickats en gång. Vad har jag missat?

16.12.2023 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Minna. Har du husket de 4 maskene du satte de 4 merkene i? Tell 13 masker, sett 1 merketråd i neste maske, tell 21 masker (= erme), sett 1 merketråd i neste maske, tell 26 masker (= forstykke), sett 1 merketråd i neste maske, tell 21 masker (= erme), sett 1 merketråd i neste maske, det er 13 masker på pinnen etter siste merketråd. 13+1+21+1+26+1+21+1+13= 98 masker. Så 4 + 4 masker i første omgang i A.1 + 24 raglansmasker = 98+8+24=130 masker. mvh DROPS Design

18.12.2023 - 09:07

country flag Saija wrote:

Mistä langasta tämä kannattaisi tehdä, jos ei haluaisi niin helposti nyppyyntyvää, kuin Air, mutta kuitenkin mielellään kevyen/ilmavan? Sain yhden paidan Air-langasta ja olin yllättynyt miten nopeasti (1-2 käyttökerran jälkeen) paita oli nyppyyntynyt.

01.12.2023 - 21:42

DROPS Design answered:

Voit vaihtaa esim. DROPS Alpaca Bouclé -lankaan tai DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk -lankaan.

05.12.2023 - 18:02

country flag Jenny wrote:

Jeg strikk Str: M .Etter strikk A.1. Maske blir 16+1+33+1+32+1+33+1+16, total er 134, er ikke 126, hvor har jeg strikk feil?

31.10.2023 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jenny, str M: 94 m = 12,1,21,1,24,1,21,1,12. Du tager 4 masker ud i A.1x2=8m og 8 masker ud til raglan 3 gange = 24=126 masker (15,1,3,25,3,1,30,1,3,25,3,1,15=126m)

31.10.2023 - 11:34

country flag Jenny wrote:

Takk for svar! Strikker 1. omgang av A.1 øker du med 4 x 2 masker iflg. A.1. Men strikk A.1. først omgang da blir 25 masker på A1. Hva har jeg gjørt feil?

30.10.2023 - 11:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jenny, hver udtagning på 1.pind i A.1 er en ny maske, du starter med 21 masker, tager ud på første omgang og har nu 25 masker. Diagrammet på hvert ærme strikkes nu over 25 masker :)

31.10.2023 - 08:44

country flag Jenny wrote:

Hi, BÆRESTYKKE, Videre strikkes det glattstrikk over maskene på forstykket og på bakstykket, og A.1 (= 21 masker) over maskene på hvert erme, SAMTIDIG på første omgang starter økning til RAGLAN i hver overgang mellom bol og ermer – les forklaring over. Fortsett med økning til raglan på hver 2. omgang. Når A.1 er strikket 1 gang i høyden er det 122-126-130-134-138-142 masker , er det masker rett? Hvorfor jeg strikk erme er mer masker? Erme er 25+8 masker.

29.10.2023 - 13:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jenny. Ja, dette maske antallet er riktig = 122-126-130-134-138-142 masker. I f.eks str S har du 90 masker og når du strikker 1. omgang av A.1 øker du med 4 x 2 masker iflg. A.1. Dvs når du starter på 2. omgang har du 98 masker, så starter du med raglan økninger. Du øker på hver 2. omgang = 3 økeomganger når A.1 er strikket 1 gang i høyden. På hver økeomgang økes det med 8 masker. 8 masker x 3 økeomganger = 24 masker + de 98 maskene man hadde = 122 masker, som det står i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

30.10.2023 - 11:12