DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Northern Spring

Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Sky. Piece is knitted top down diagonally with lace pattern and knots. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS 223-8
DROPS design: Pattern sk-120
Yarn group B + B or D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 01, white

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/ pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.40 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 to A.8 (A.7 and A.8 applies to illustration).

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 66 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 14) = 4.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid front/back + shoulders):
Work until stitch with marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (marker is in this stitch), make 1 yarn over. Repeat at each of the remaining 3 stitches with markers (= 8 stitches increased on round).
Work the new stitches in pattern as shown in diagram (they should make holes).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before stitch with marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (marker is in this stitch), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round, top down. Then divide the piece mid front/mid back and work back and forth in 2 parts (= sides) - this is done to get a straight edge at the bottom. Work rib in round at the end.
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down. Then divide the piece and work back and forth, as at the bottom of the body. Work rib in round at the end.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 64-66-68-70-74-78 stitches on short circular needle size 5 mm with 2 strands Sky. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm. Knit 1 round while increasing 0-14-12-26-22-34 stitches = 64-80-80-96-96-112 stitches. Insert a marker thread here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Now insert 4 markers in the piece without working as follows: Insert a marker in first stitch (= mid on top of shoulder), then insert 3 markers more 15-19-19-23-23-27 stitches apart between each stitch with marker.
Then increase in each side of stitches with markers and work pattern as follows:
Knit 1 (= stitch with marker on left shoulder), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 4 stitches, A.2 over the next 8-12-12-16-16-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 4 stitches, A.2 over the next 8-12-12-16-16-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker on right shoulder), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 4 stitches, A.2 over the next 8-12-12-16-16-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker mid front), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 over the next 4 stitches, A.2 over the next 8-12-12-16-16-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 3 stitches, make 1 yarn over.
1 stitch has been increased on each side of every stitch with marker - read INCREASE TIP-2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Continue pattern and increase like this every other round until 23-23-26-28-30-31 increases have been done in total on each side of stitches with marker (= 248-264-288-320-336-360 stitches on round) - on every round with purl in diagrams purl the 4 stitches with markers. AT THE SAME TIME when A.1 to A.3 have been worked vertically, work as pattern as follows: * Knit 1 (stitch with marker), A.4 over the first 3 stitches, A.5 until 2 stitches remain before next marker, work A.6 over the last 2 stitches before next marker *, work from *-* on round, and continue increase as before every other round. In size XS, S, M, L and XL divide piece before diagrams have been worked vertically. In size XXL continue with stocking stitch when diagram has been worked vertically.
When all increases are done, the piece measures approx. 29-29-33-35-38-39 cm in knitting direction from after neck edge. Cut the yarn.

Work next round as follows:
Slip the first 26-27-30-33-34-35 stitches on 1 stitch holder for half a sleeve, cast on 3-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-95-101-111 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 51-53-59-65-67-69 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-95-101-111 stitches (= front piece), slip the remaining 25-26-29-32-33-34 stitches on first stitch holder for sleeve, and cast on 2-2-2-2-3-3 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve). Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on each shoulder, and insert 1 marker in the middle stitches mid back. Leave marker there - MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 156-168-180-200-216-236 stitches. Insert 1 marker in first stitch on round, and insert 1 marker in the 3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th stitch of the 5-5-5-5-7-7 stitches cast on in the side under the second sleeve, move the markers upwards when working (= the sides).
In XS, S, M and L continue in the round with pattern as before until diagrams have been worked, then work in stocking stitch. In size XL and XXL pattern has been worked and work in stocking stitch.
Work as follows:
Continue in the round with pattern/stocking stitch, and increase mid back and mid front as before, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 2 stitches at the 2 new markers in the side – read DECREASE TIP-1 (this is done to keep number of stitches constant). Decrease like this every other round until finished measurements. On each side of decrease in each side work as many stitches of pattern that will fit towards the sides. Work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures approx. 11-13-10-10-9-9 cm from marker inserted mid back (piece measures approx. 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm from shoulder and down and approx. 5 cm remain before total length, cut the yarn.
Slip stitch with marker mid back + stitches until before stitch with marker mid front on 1 stitch holder (= half back piece + half front piece), work over these stitches later. There is now half a front piece and half a back piece on needle.

HALF FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Now work back and forth at the same time as casting off stitches in each side, so that bottom edge is straight.
See illustration A.7 for this part. Begin from right side and cast off stitch with marker mid front/mid back. Work in stocking stitch back and forth on row - AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row and decrease on each side of stitch with marker (i.e. in the side) continue on every other row as before until finished measurements. Continue like this until 3 stitches remain on row, cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches and fasten.

HALF FRONT/BACK PIECE:
Slip stitches from stitch holder on circular needle size 6 mm and work the same way as other half front/back piece.

BOTTOM EDGE:
Begin in one side and pick up approx. 132-142-156-170-182-204 stitches along entire bottom edge on circular needle size 6 mm with 2 strands (number of stitches should be divisible by 2) - pick up inside decrease, to get an invisible decrease. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 51-53-59-65-67-69 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 6 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-5-5-7-7 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 56-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the 3rd-3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th stitch of the 5-5-5-5-7-7 stitches under sleeve and move the markers upwards when working.
Continue pattern/stocking stitch the same way as on body, and increase mid on top of sleeve as before, AT THE SAME TIME decrease at the marker under sleeve - remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other round until finished measurements.
Continue like this until sleeve measures approx. 24-24-20-19-16-14 cm from marker in mid stitch on shoulder (approx. 5 cm remain until finished length. Try the jumper and work to desired length).
Now work back and forth at the same time as casting off stitches in each side, so that bottom edge is straight - see illustration A.8 for this part. Begin from right side and cast off stitch with marker mid on top of sleeve. Continue with stocking stitch and decrease at the marker mid under sleeve as before - AT THE SAME TIME cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row. Continue like this until 3 stitches remain on row, cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Begin mid under sleeve and pick up approx. 48-48-56-58-64-68 stitches along entire bottom edge on double pointed needles size 5 mm with 2 strands (number of stitches should be divisible by 2) - pick up inside decrease, to get an invisible decrease. Work rib = knit 1/purl 1 for 5 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve edge the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = Knot: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until you have increased from 1 to 5 stitches. You now have the 5 stitches on right needle. Pass 2nd stitch (the next to last stitch on right needle) over the outermost stitch, pass 3rd stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 4th stitch over the outermost stitch, pass 5th stitch over the outermost stitch (= 1 knot).
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over to make a hole
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = mid front
symbols = mid back
symbols = mid on top of sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Sara wrote:

Hi, can you share what size the model is wearing in the pictures? Thx!

08.11.2023 - 19:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sara, most of the time our models wear either a size S or a size M, but as we all are different, the best way to find the matching size is to measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to the ones in the chart. Read more here. Happy knitting!

09.11.2023 - 08:20

country flag Lynn wrote:

Hello Please can you help me with a written pattern of this sweater instead of a diagram pattern. I have difficulty to focus on diagram pattern with my eyes. Much appreciated ☺️

03.09.2023 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lynn, we don't make custom patterns; this is the only format of this pattern available. You can print the charts and enlarge them so that you may see them more easily. You can also ask for any questions regarding the charts here. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 23:55

country flag Soledad wrote:

No entiendo bien como debo hacer la parte de abajo de este jersey , ruego me lo aclaren. Gracias

18.11.2022 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Soledad, puedes ver en el siguiente video cómo recoger puntos para la orilla inferior: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=59&lang=es

20.11.2022 - 23:25

country flag Huguette St-Germain wrote:

Merci pour votre prompte réponse. J'avais bien compris alors. Le fait est que 38 cm de longueur totale avant de diviser est beaucoup trop long pour moi et la phrase "qu'on doit diviser l'ouvrage avant la fin des diagrammes" m'a induite en erreur. On doit faire les diagrammes au complet en fin de compte (d'augmentations) ! J'ai l'idée de continuer avec le nombre de mailles en grandeur Petit, en ajustant les longueurs, le cas échéant. Je vous en donne des nouvelles !

19.01.2022 - 15:34

country flag Huguette St-Germain wrote:

Je tricote le modèle en grandeur XL. C'est écrit qu'on doit diviser l'ouvrage avant la fin des diagrammes. À combien de mailles? présentement, j'ai arrêté à l'endroit où chaque section comporte également 67 mailles. Combien de mailles dois-je glisser en attente pour les manches? et combien dois-je en garder pour les dos/devant? merci !

18.01.2022 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme St-Germain, en XL, vous devez augmenter 31 fois tous les 2 tours, vous avez 336 mailles sur l'aiguille, et votre ouvrage doit mesurer 38 cm, vous coupez le fil pour diviser les mailles pour le dos/le devant et les manches. Continuez le point fantaisie en même temps, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit terminé, puis vous continuerez en jersey. Bon tricot!

19.01.2022 - 08:36

country flag Kosa Timea wrote:

A fél eleje/háta résznél a lelancolást nem értem. Minden sor elején ( akkor is ha a fonáján kötök?) leláncolunk 2 szemet? A 2 szem leláncolása azt jelenti, hogy 2 szemmel kevesebb lesz ? Köszönöm a választ!

14.01.2022 - 17:59

country flag Michele Leijten wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over het patroon. Bij het breien van de knoop "steek" (in A.1 tm A.6), is het dan de bedoeling dat je afwisselend in de voorste en achterste lus van dezelfde steek meerdert (voor achter voor achter voor)? Ik snap de beschrijving niet (ook niet in een andere taal). Een video van deze steek zou wel handig zijn (ik had al gezocht maar de huidige video's volgen deze beschrijving niet)

03.08.2021 - 14:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Michelle,

Je brei inderdaad afwisselend in de voorste en de achterste lus, (dus voor, achter, voor, achter, voor). Er is inderdaad geen video van deze knoop.

07.08.2021 - 10:45

country flag Sally Neale wrote:

In size XS, S, M, L and XL divide piece before diagrams have been worked vertically. In size XXL continue with stocking stitch when diagram has been worked vertically Not sure what this means do i knit A4 A5 A6 and then split or at what point? thanks.

28.05.2021 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sally, the sentence means, that in sizes XS-L you need to split before you finish the patterns, in XL just after you finish the pattern. Happy Knitting!

29.05.2021 - 01:22

country flag Kat Arnett wrote:

When inserting 4 markers at the beginning of the yoke the numbers seem to be incorrect. 64/4=16, 80/4=20, 96/4=24 & 112/4=28. Why do the numbers show markers for 15, 19, 23 & 27?

19.02.2021 - 00:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Kat, You insert the markers in the stitches after the 15 stitches (in stitch 16 as you say and with 15 stitches between each marker-stitch) . Happy knitting!

19.02.2021 - 07:32

country flag Gaud wrote:

Bonjour, le diagramme A.6, en arrivant au troisième et quatrième rangs de noeuds, la partie de gauche semble commencer une maille plus tard que la succession habituelle de 3 mailles entre chaque noeud: le premier noeud se trouverait à 4 mailles du dernier noeud de A.5. Est-ce correct? Merci beaucoup.

10.02.2021 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gaud, merci pour votre retour, vous avez raison, le diagramme A.6 a été corrigé -on a bien 3 mailles endroit entre chaque nœud. Bon tricot!

11.02.2021 - 09:06