DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Peaches and Cream

Knitted jumper in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Piece is knitted top down with ¾ pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 223-1
DROPS design: Pattern as-148
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g colour 20, pink sand

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.10 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.50€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 70 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches), and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 8) = 8,5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every 8th and 9th stitch, do not increase over edge stitches. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example alternately every 7th and 8th stitch and every 8th and 9th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch, knit 2 together(= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front pieces and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately, top down. Sleeve cap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then work the rest of sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 20-21-20-21-21-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm, work, next row from wrong side as follows: Work as before over all stitches and cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 new stitches at the end of row for neck = 40-41-42-43-45-46 stitches. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the left shoulder at the back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 20-21-20-21-21-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 4 cm– adjust to finish with last row from wrong side. Then work back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Now slip left and right shoulder on to same circular needle so that the 20-20-22-22-24-24 new stitches cast on for neck are in the middle of needle = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work pattern from the right side as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, stocking over the next 14-15-14-15-15-16 stitches, garter stitch over the next 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 14-15-14-15-15-16 stitches, 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this until 3 ridges have been worked over stitches for neck. Then work in stocking stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm from cast-on edge on shoulders, increase 1 stitch in each side for armholes – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row, 2-4-8-11-15-19 times in total in each side= 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION.

Now cast on 3 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 4 rows in stocking stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Continue until piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm from armhole and increase 8-8-9-10-12-14 stitches evenly on last row from wrong side - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 78-84-93-102-114-126 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Back piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from shoulder and down.

LEFT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Cast on 20-21-20-21-21-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. When piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm, work next row from wrong side as follows: Work as before over all stitches and cast on 20-20-22-22-24-24 new stitches at the end of row for neck = 40-41-42-43-45-46 stitches. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the right front shoulder.

RIGHT SHOULDER FRONT (when garment is worn):
Cast on 20-21-20-21-21-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stocking stitch. Continue until piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 20-20-20-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 7-8-9-8-8-8 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 27-28-29-30-30-30 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 1, work 2 stitches in each of the next 25-26-27-28-28-28 stitches (i.e. work in front and back loop of stitch), knit 1 = 52-54-56-58-58-58 stitches.
Work stocking stitch back and forth to sleeve cap, and cast at the same time on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-3-3 times in each side, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-5-6 times in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-3-4 times in each side, and then 3 stitches 1 time in each side = 88-92-96-100-104-110 stitches.
Put piece together and continue in the round on circular needle. Insert 1 marker thread where piece is put together (= mid under sleeve).
Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm from where it was put together, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4-4-3-3-2-2 cm 3-3-4-4-5-6 times in total = 82-86-88-92-94-98 stitches. Work until piece measures 38-38-39-39-40-40 cm from cast-on edge. Knit 1 round while decreasing 14-14-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2, knit 2 together(= 1 stitch decreased) *, work from *-* the entire round= 51-54-57-60-60-63 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 7 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm from cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Now sew sleeves to body by placing sleeves under edge in garter stitch along armholes and sewing small stitches from right side (there should not be a loose edge when sewing, and sew in outermost stitch in garter stitch from right side, so that the edge in garter stitch lies nicely outside sleeve).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 26.05.2021
Correction under assembly.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Brigitte RAPPENEAU wrote:

Ou trouver nombre de pelotes à commander pour la taille choisie ? Merci !

08.12.2023 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Rappeneau, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire au poids pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête, autrement dit, il faut ici en taille S par exemple 125 g Brushed Alpaca Silk / 25 g la pelote = 5 pelotes. Pour trouver votre taille mesurez un vêtement similaire dont vous aimez la forme et comparez les mesures à celles du schéma, retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

11.12.2023 - 07:20

country flag Michelle wrote:

Just finished this jumper for myself and I love it. Pattern instructions were easy to follow . Thank you Drops.

27.11.2023 - 11:46

country flag Olga wrote:

Buongiorno, questo modello è adatto alla stagione invernale?

03.07.2023 - 11:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Olga, I live in Poland and I wear this sweater in cold Polish winter. It is very warm. Happy knitting!

05.07.2023 - 11:09

country flag Anne wrote:

How to I create the creases in the sleeves that are show in the picture? Do I fold it when attaching the sleeve to the garment?

31.12.2022 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anne, this video shows how to work the increases to make th puff-sleeve - you can then shape the top of sleeve nicely along armhole before sewing. Happy knitting!

02.01.2023 - 14:01

country flag Mary wrote:

Er staat ronde hals maar die van mij is vierkant hoe krijg ik hem rond

20.12.2022 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mary,

Je hebt gelijk, er staat bij de trefwoorden een ronde hals, maar het is een vierkante hals. Ik zal het doorgeven, want dit trefwoord hoort er niet bij.

20.12.2022 - 21:41

country flag Maraili wrote:

Hej igen, det er i bunden af ryggen, lige inden ribben. 8 udtagninger fra vrangen jævnt fordelt. Det eneste sted man skal tage ud fra vrangen. Det giver huller. Mvh. Maraili

20.12.2022 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maraili, hvis du strikker omslaget drejet på næste pind, vil hullerne ikke kunne ses.... MEN du kan også tage ud ved at strikke 2 masker i én maske, hvis du synes det bliver finere :)

21.12.2022 - 14:42

country flag Maraili wrote:

Hej strikkere, jeg har samme spørgsmål som Ch. Kristensen, da der opstår huller ved udtagningerne lavet på vrangen. Dem ser man ikke på billedet. Desuden forstår jeg ikke formålet med udtagningerne. Tak! Mvh. M

19.12.2022 - 21:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maraili, vi vil gerne hjælpe, men skriv hvor du er i opskriften? Hvilke huller og hvilke udtagninger?

20.12.2022 - 14:37

country flag Maraili wrote:

Hej Drops, tak for en fin opskrift. vedr. bagstykket. Hvordan kan man tage ud på hver 4. pind, når det skal ske fra retsiden? Skal det så ikke være hver 5. pind? Måske har jeg misforstået noget. Mvh. Maraili

25.11.2022 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Maraili, hvis din første pind er fra retsiden, så tager du ind på pind 1,5,9,13 osv (da bliver det hver 4.pind :)

30.11.2022 - 14:17

country flag Emma wrote:

When knitting the front piece, am I supposed to make the additions to both sides immediately after knitting the 8 cm shoulder pieces? The back piece required an additional 4 cm after the shoulder pieces that were 4 cm, so I am a bit concerned I might have made the front piece too long.

06.05.2022 - 06:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emma, yes correct, the neck on back piece is shorter, so that you join both shoulders together after 4 cm, while the neck on front piece will be deeper, reason why you join both shoulders together after 8 cm (in 3rd and 4th size). Happy knitting!

06.05.2022 - 07:50

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Vraag gaat over meerdering eind achterpand voordat het boord begint, 8 steken meerderen verdeel over 68 steken, zonder de kantsteken, zou inhouden tussen 8e en 9e steek zoals in het voorbeeld. Nu tel ik vanaf steek 2 en dan maak ik een lus tussen 8e en 9e steek maar het komt niet uit. Het moet ik het dan wel doen? Graag advies! Dank

27.02.2022 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacqueline,

Als je 68 deelt door 8 dan kom je op 8,5, dus je zou om de 8,5 steken moeten meerderen. Dat kan natuurlijk niet, dus je meerdert afwisselt steeds na 8 en 9 steken.

28.02.2022 - 07:25