DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.65€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Budding Warmup

Knitted jumper for men with raglan in DROPS Alaska. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and stocking stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 219-10
DROPS design: Pattern x-448
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-650-700-750-850-900 g colour 02, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm : Length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 2.15 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.65€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 96 stitches) , and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 10) = 9.6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 10th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to raglan):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase like this at all markers (= 8 stitches increased). Knit yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes. Work the increased stitch on front piece and back piece in pattern A.1, work the increased stitch on sleeve in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to side on body and sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch, cast off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Work neck edge double and sew in at the end. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 80-84-92-96-96-104 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Alaska. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 8 cm. Rounds begin mid back. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round, measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Knit 1 round and increase 2-6-6-2-10-2 stitches evenly = 82-90-98-98-106-106 stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1. 
Work next round as follows (insert markers between stitches): Work 12-14-16-16-18-18 stitches according to diagram A.1 (= half back piece), 1 stitch in stocking stitch, insert 1st marker, 14 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work 25-29-33-33-37-37 according to diagram A.1, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch (= front piece), insert 3rd marker, 14 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), insert 4th marker, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, work 13-15-17-17-19-19 stitches according to diagram A.1 (= last half of back piece).
Move the markers upwards when working, increase for raglan on each side of every marker. On next round increase 1 stitch in each side of every marker - read INCREASE TIP -2! Increase like this every other round 19-20-22-24-26-30 times in total = 234-250-274-290-314-346 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Piece measures approx. 19-20-22-24-26-29 cm from marker mid back. Work until piece measures 20-21-23-25-27-30 cm from marker. Now divide the piece for sleeves and body as follows:
Work pattern as before over the first 34-35-39-42-47-52 stitches (= half back piece), slip the next 48-54-58-60-62-68 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the next 69-71-79-85-95-105 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 48-54-58-60-62-68 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches under sleeve, work pattern as before over the last 35-36-40-43-48-53 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 158-162-178-194-214-234 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-10-12-12-12 new stitches under sleeve (= in the side of body). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they are used when decreasing in the sides later. Continue with pattern as before (adjust A.1 in the sides so that pattern continue nicely on front and back piece). When piece measures 5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 9 cm 3 times in total = 146-150-166-182-202-222 stitches. When piece measures 31-32-32-32-32-31 cm from division, knit 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 14-18-14-18-14-18 stitches evenly = 160-168-180-200-216-240 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib knit 2/purl 2 in the round. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when rib measures 5 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP. Piece measures approx. 36-37-37-37-37-36 cm from division.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-54-58-60-62-68 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 58-64-68-72-74-80 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-10-12-12-12 new stitches. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease under sleeve. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 3-3-4-5-5-5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - remember DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm 11-12-13-15-15-18 times in total = 36-40-42-42-44-44 stitches. When sleeve measures 43-43-41-40-39-38 cm from division, increase 4-4-2-6-4-4 stitches evenly = 40-44-44-48-48-48 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib knit 2/purl 2 in the round. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl when rib measures 5 cm - read CAST-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck outwards towards right side. Fasten cast-off edge – Sew with neat little stitches on the wrong side of jumper (make sure to make the seam invisible on the right side and to avoid a tight seam).

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (37)

country flag Gunn-Heidi Nordtveit wrote:

Mønster A1 til 219-10, Budding Warmup mangler i oppskrifta. Kan dere hjelpe med dette mønsteret?

04.03.2024 - 21:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunn-Heidi. Du finner diagram A.1 längst ner, till höger om måleskitsen. Mvh DROPS design

05.03.2024 - 08:03

country flag Gunn-Heidi Nordtveit wrote:

Ser ut som mønster A1 ikkje er med i oppskrifta til 219-10, Budding Warmup. Kan dere hjelpe med hvordan dette mønsteret er?

04.03.2024 - 21:38

country flag Fanny wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai une question dans les diminution de la section DOS/DEVANT : je fais la première diminution donc sur les 9cm suivants, le shéma de ce que je tricote ne correspond plus au diagramme. je fais la seconde diminution et ça correspond de nouveau. Je fais la dernière diminution et ça ne correspond plus de nouveau... jusqu'à la fin du tricot. Comment faire pour adapter ça de façon à ce que ça reste joli et harmonieux svp ? Merci!

05.08.2023 - 20:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fanny, comme le motif est multiple de 2 m et que l'on diminue 3 mailles, il ne va plus tomber juste tout le tour, continuez comme avant ou bien diminuez 1 maille en plus/en moins pour que le motif tombe de nouveau juste. Bon tricot!

07.08.2023 - 09:57

country flag Fanny wrote:

Bonjour ! Mon homme trouve que ce fil 100% laine pique trop... Y a-t-il un autre fil de chez vous avec lequel je peux faire ce patron sans que ça ne modifie le résultat? Merci d'avance !

05.06.2023 - 19:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Fanny, utilisez notre convertisseur pour voir toutes les alternatives possibles (Air, Big Merino par ex pour un fil du groupe C ou bien en utilisant 2 fils du groupe de fils A) et les quantités correspondantes. Votre magasin saura vous conseiller la laine idéale (même par mail ou téléphone) en fonction de sa sensibilité. Bon tricot!

06.06.2023 - 08:51

country flag Meri wrote:

Hei! Ohjeessa mainittu ruutupiirros ei näy tällä sivulla mobiilissa eikä tietokoneen selaimella tarkastellessa. Kokeilin myös ohjeen tulostamista ja Ruutupiirros -niminen sivu tuli näkyville - tyhjänä. Mistä saisin tuon ruutupiirroksen? Nimimerkillä aloitin jo tekemään ja vasta sen jälkeen aloin katselemaan oliko ohjeessa kaikki tiedot kohdillaan.

23.03.2023 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, ruutupiirros A.1 avautuu normaalisti. Se löytyy mittapiirroksen oikealta puolelta.

23.03.2023 - 17:18

country flag Lesley wrote:

In working this pattern, I've installed the centre back stitch marker at the top of the neck and again at its base. Having moved the marker at the base along with its knitted row, I am now unclear as to the total 'yoke' measurement I must reach before dividing the sleeves from the body. ( Mine is the 'L' size. ) Will you kindly clarify whether I should measure from the base of the neck piece or the top?

02.01.2023 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lesley, the yoke should be measured from the marker inserted on mid back, ie from after the neck edge (or just at the beginning of "yoke" section). Happy knitting!

02.01.2023 - 16:14

country flag Laura wrote:

Buongiorno sono veramente a le prime esperienze . Ho fatto 3 maglioni in lana con i ferri dritti, ma poi me li aveva cuciti mia madre che purtroppo adesso non c\'è più. Sto facendo l\'ultimo maglione da uomo in lana con ferro n.6, tre dritti e due rovesci. Volevo fare un collo tondo basso. Mi dite come cucirlo? Lo devo lavorare staccato e poi successivamente cucirlo al maglione?\r\nCome mi consigliate? \r\nResto in attesa e vi saluto. Grazie Laura

25.12.2022 - 20:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Laura, può anche riprendere le maglie del collo e lavorarlo come desidera. Per un'assistenza più personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

28.12.2022 - 19:05

country flag Anne K T wrote:

Hejsa! Jeg er nået til at tage ind i siden af rug og forstykket. Men jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg får det til at passe med mønsteret. Skal den sammenstillede maske strikkes ret eller brand nedad? (Uanset vil der vil komme tre masker uden mønster de næste 9 cm), eller skal jeg strikke modsat på mønsteret over de midterste fire masker/ omkring mærket?

12.10.2022 - 19:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne. Når bærestykket ermene settes og de nye maskene strikkes på sammen pinne og mønstret fortsettes som før, må man tilpasse A.1 i sidene slik at mønstret fortsetter pent på forstykket og bakstykket. Når det skal felles under ermene (1 maske på hver side av merketrådene), vil ikke alltid mønstret gå opp. Så da vil det bli 9 cm som ikke vil stemme overens. mvh DROPS Design

24.10.2022 - 07:41

country flag Karine wrote:

Kuidas peab kuduma need 10 silmust , mis on kehaosa vahel ja kuidas neid kahandada?

03.10.2022 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Karine! Silmused külgedel kootakse samamoodi mustrisse, nagu ülejäänud kehaosal. Kuidas kahandada, on kirjeldatud juhendi alguses - KAHANDAMISE NIPP (külgedel ja varrukatel). Head kudumist!

27.10.2022 - 16:24

country flag Tarja wrote:

Muuttaisiko paljo paidan kokoa ja lankamenekkiä jos tekisi paidan kuvion sijasta sileää neuletta?

31.07.2022 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Jos neulot kohoneuleen sijaan sileää neuletta, puserosta voi tulla hieman leveämpi/pidempi. Langanmenekin tulisi olla suunnilleen sama, lankaa voi mennä hieman vähemmän.

22.08.2022 - 17:16