Leaf Diversion

Knitted vest and head band in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with increase for saddle shoulder and lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 218-23
DROPS design: Pattern no-040
Yarn group A + A or C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-200-200 g colour 07, light beige
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-75 g colour 20, light beige

VEST:

SIZE:
S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-200 g colour 07, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-75 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 2 pieces for all sizes

HEAD BAND:

SIZE:
One-size
Measurements: Width: Approx. 14 cm Length: approx. 49 cm - or desired length.
Head circumference: 54/56 cm - or desired length

MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50 g colour 07, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 or 60 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Vest: See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
Head band: See diagram A.4.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to saddle shoulder increase):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, count the stitches to be increased (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide this number by stitches of increases to be done (e.g. 4) = 2.5. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately every other and 3rd stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked top down, and worked in the round until shoulder increases are done. Then work front and back piece back and forth separately.

VEST:
Cast on 128-136-144 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Nord and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 13 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Now work as follows:
Insert 1st marker at beginning of round (= before 2 knit stitches), work rib as before over the first 26-30-34 stitches, insert 2nd marker here, work A.1 over the next 38-38-38 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased), insert 3rd marker here, work rib as before over the next 26-30-34 stitches, insert 4th marker here, work A.1 over the last 38-38-38 stitches (= 2 stitches decreased) = 124-132-140 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Now work last round in A.1 and work rib as before over the 26-30-34 stitches on each shoulder. AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4 stitches on round: Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker, and AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increases are only on front piece and back piece and number of
shoulder stitches remains the same. Increase like this every round 18-20-22 times in total. Work the increased stitches from the first 10-12-14 rounds in stocking stitch, then work the increased stitches from the next 8 rounds in pattern as follows: Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2.
When A.1 is finished vertically, work A.2 over A.1 and rib as before over the 26-30-34 stitches on each shoulder.
When all increases are done, there are 196-212-228 stitches on round, continue with pattern as before.
The next time the 1st, 3rd, 5th or 7th round in A.2 is worked; work as follows:
Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the first 26-30-34 stitches, work pattern as before over the next 72-76-80 stitches before slipping them on 1 stitch holder (= front piece), cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 26-30-34 stitches, work pattern as before over the last 72-76-80 stitches (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
Continue back and forth with pattern as before over the 72-76-80 stitches. I.e. Work A.2 over the middle 36-36-36 stitches and work knit over knit and purl over purl over the remaining stitches. When piece measures 39-42-45 cm from transition between A.1 in the neck and A.2 – adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically, work next row from right side as follows: Work as before over the first 8-8-8 stitches, knit the next 10-12-14 stitches while increasing 4-2-4 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-2, work A.3 over A.2 (= 2 stitches increased), knit the next 10-12-14 stitches while increasing 4-2-4 stitches evenly, work the last 8-8-8 stitches as before = 82-82-90 stitches. Work 1 row in pattern (work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Now work rib from right side as follows: Work (knit 2/purl 2) over the first 20-20-24 stitches, knit 2, continue with knit over knit and purl over purl over the next 38-38-38 stitches, work (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 20-20-24 stitches, knit 2. Continue back and forth like this until rib has been worked for 2 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as on back piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Knit a band with buttonhole in each side as follows: Cast on 7 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand Nord and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work in garter stitch back and forth. When 4 ridges have been worked, decrease for buttonhole follows: Knit 2, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), make 1 yarn over, knit 3. On next row knit yarn over. continue back and forth in garter stitch until band measures approx. 16 to 28 cm – or desired length (ribbon can be worked longer after button is attached, to make it easier to work until correct length).
Fasten button on right side of back piece, approx. 14 cm up from bottom edge and between 5th and 6th stitch from edge. Then try the vest on and adjust length of band by working to desired length. Fasten the other end of band on on the inside of front piece approx. 14 cm (i.e. in a row) with button.
Repeat in the other side.

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HEAD BAND:
Work head band back and forth on circular needle.

HEAD BAND:
Cast on 36 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work pattern A.4 back and forth. Tighten the yarn a little at the beginning of every row to avoid a loose edge stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work like this until piece measures 49 cm or desired length - adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut the yarn but leave some yarn for assembly. Sew seam with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-on and cast-off edge.

Diagram explanations

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