Herringbone Hill Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Sky and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down, with raglan, cables and Fisherman’s rib stitches. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 215-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-100
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 01, white
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 27) = 2.8. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the raglan-stitch, by making 1 yarn over (8 stitches increased on each increase-row). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked 1 cm below the neck. The other 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes are worked with 8-9 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 87-90-93-99-102-105 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand Sky and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm (double neck).

YOKE:
When the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the next row as follows from the right side: Knit 1, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band), knit 73-76-79-85-88-91 and increase 26-27-28-26-27-28 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, knit the next 6 stitches together 2 and 2, knit 1 (3 stitches decreased = 4 stitches for the band) = 107-111-115-119-123-127 stitches. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker! Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch).

Now work pattern as follows:
4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 16 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.2 over the next 31 stitches, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7 (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 12 (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= raglan-stitch), 1 yarn over, knit 2-3-4-5-6-7, A.3 over the next 16 stitches, 4 band stitches in garter stitch (= right front piece). AT THE SAME TIME work BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.

You have now increased 1 stitch to RAGLAN on each side of all the raglan-stitches in the transitions between the body and sleeves – read description above. Continue this pattern back and forth and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 18-20-22-23-27-29 times = 251-271-291-303-339-359 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

Continue with the pattern without further increases to raglan until the yoke measures 21-24-26-28-31-35 cm from the marker. Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row from the wrong side as follows:
Work the first 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 73-79-85-89-99-105 stitches (= back piece), place the next 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the last 41-44-47-49-54-57 stitches (= left front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 167-179-191-203-223-239 stitches. Continue back and forth with 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, patterns A.1, A.2 and A.3 as before and stocking stitch over the other stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 19-18-18-18-17-15 cm from the division – adjust so you finish on row 5 in A.1, A.2 and A.3. Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
Now work as follows from the wrong side: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.2b over the next 31 stitches (4 stitches increased = 35 stitches), purl 48-54-60-66-76-84 stitches and increase 10-10-13-13-15-16 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 58-64-73-79-91-100 stitches), A.1b over the next 16 stitches (2 stitches increased = 18 stitches), 4 band stitches in garter stitch. There are 195-207-225-237-261-279 stitches on the needle. Now work rib (knit 1, purl 2) inside the 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue with A.1b over A.1, A.2b over A.2 and A.3b over A.3 – first row from the right side. NOTE! There should now be knit 1, purl 2 over all stitches between the bands. When the rib measures 10 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 48-52-56-58-66-70 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches under the sleeve = 54-58-62-66-74-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-5 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-1½-1 cm a total of 9-10-11-12-15-17 times = 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-32-30-29-26-23 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke) knit 1 round where you increase 9-7-8-9-7-8 stitches = 45-45-48-51-51-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-36-35-32-29 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram explanations

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