Bring Spring Cardigan

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with raglan, balloon sleeves and stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 200-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-143
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-75-75-75 g colour 12, beige
25-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 04, old pink
25-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 05, heather
25-25-50-50-50-50 g colour 30, yellow
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 20, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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STRIPES-1 (for yoke and body):
10-11-12-12-12-13 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand light beige (= 2 strands).
11-11-11-12-12-12 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand yellow (= 2 strands).
11-11-11-12-12-12 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand old pink (= 2 strands).
11-11-11-12-12-12 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand heather (= 2 strands).
Then work with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand beige (= 2 strands).

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase to raglan in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. There are a total of 8 stitches increased on each increase-row

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 88 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches with number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 5.4. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 5th and 6th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together (alternately) each 4th and 5th and each 5th and 6th stitch.

STRIPES-2 (for yoke and sleeves):
Continue until you have worked a total of 12-12-12-13-13-13 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand old pink (= 2 strands) from the previous stripe on yoke.
12-12-12-13-13-13 cm with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand heather (= 2 strands).
Then work with 1 strand off-white + 1 strand beige (= 2 strands).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/ double pointed needles, top down. The bands are worked mid front and the neck worked to finish. The whole piece is worked in stocking stitch and stripes, with ribbed edges.

YOKE:
Cast on 102-122-122-130-126-136 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 5.5 mm and 1 strand off-white + 1 strand light beige (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): First marker thread is inserted after the first 20-25-25-26-25-27 stitches (= front piece), 2nd marker thread after the next 12-12-12-14-14-15 stitches (= sleeve), 3rd marker thread is inserted after the next 38-48-48-50-48-52 stitches (= back piece) and 4th marker thread after the next 12-12-12-14-14-15 stitches (= sleeve). There are 20-25-25-26-25-27 stitches left on row after the last marker thread (= front piece).
Continue with stocking stitch and STRIPES-1 with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side towards mid front – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase to RAGLAN in each transition between body and sleeves – read description above. Continue this increase to raglan every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) until you have increased a total of 21-23-24-26-28-30 times on each side of all 4 marker threads. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase there are 270-306-314-338-350-376 stitches on the needle and the piece measures approx. 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. If the measurement is not right, continue working stocking stitch, without increasing to the correct length. The next row is worked as follows from the right side:
Work 43-47-49-53-56-61 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 50-60-60-64-64-67 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 84-92-96-104-110-120 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 50-60-60-64-64-67 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 43-47-49-53-56-61 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 186-202-214-230-246-266 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and stripes with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side (first row worked from the wrong side).
When the piece measures 30-30-31-30-30-30 cm from the division knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-42-42-46-50-54 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 220-244-256-276-296-320 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch * purl 2, knit 2 * work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 50-60-60-64-64-67 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 58-68-70-74-76-79 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here. Work stocking stitch and STRIPES-2. When the piece measures 40-38-38-36-34-33 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round where the number of stitches is adjusted to 56-64-64-72-72-80 stitches (by increasing/decreasing the right number of stitches). On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 28-32-32-36-36-40 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 purl 2) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-43-41-39-38 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

LEFT BAND:
Knit up from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, approx. 101-105-109-113-117-121 stitches along the left front piece with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand off-white + 1 strand beige (= 2 strands). The number of stitches needs to be divisible by 4 + 1. The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on row, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

RIGHT BAND:
Knit up from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, approx. 101-105-109-113-117-121 stitches along the right front piece with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand off-white + 1 strand beige (= 2 strands). The number of stitches needs to be divisible by 4 + 1. The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2. knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib, but after 1 cm work 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes evenly spaced. The bottom buttonhole should be approx. 13-15-17-14-15-15 cm from the bottom edge and the top buttonhole approx. 9 cm from the neck edge. 1 buttonhole = knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over – NOTE: It is neatest if you work the buttonholes in the purled sections (seen from the right side). Continue the rib until it is the same width as the left band. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 112-132-132-140-136-146 stitches along the whole neck with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand off-white + 1 strand beige (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you decrease the number of stitches to 94-94-102-106-110-114 stitches – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib, but after approx. ½ cm work 1 buttonhole over the others on the right band. Continue working until the rib measures 2 cm and loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

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