Winter Berries Jacket

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, Nordic pattern on yoke and A-shape. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

DROPS Children 32-6
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-077-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
The size is equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-300-300-350 g colour 44, light grey
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 48, wine red
50-50-50-50-50-100 g colour 72, light pearl grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 13, cerise
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 16, dark grey

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: length 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Cedar NO 513: 5-6-6-7-7-8 items.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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ELEVATION (in back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation (the neck will then be the same front and back).
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch of the row (= mid back). Start from the right side with light grey and knit 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches past the stitch with the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 23-25-25-27-27-29 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 34-37-37-40-40-43 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 45-49-49-53-53-57 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 56-61-61-66-66-71 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl to end of row (band is knitted).
Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1). The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1 (for bands):
On the rows with either stripes or pattern borders, use the colour in the stripe or the background colour in the pattern border when working the 5 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for Nordic pattern):
To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 92 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 3) = 27.3. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 27th stitch; on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over bands.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are made from the right side!
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid under sleeve): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole. 
First buttonhole is worked when neck measures approx. 1½ cm. Then work the next 4-5-5-6-6-7 buttonholes with approx. 8-7½-8-7½-8-7½ cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Neck, yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 92-96-96-100-100-104 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and light grey. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read description above. When the rib measures approx. 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm purl 1 row from the wrong side where you increase 3-5-5-7-7-9 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 95-101-101-107-107-113 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above, or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2!
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 28-30-30-32-32-34 repeats of 3 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A increase evenly on row as described below (all increases are made from the right side). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and INCREASE TIP-1.
Arrow-1: Increase 16-14-14-12-12-10 stitches evenly on row = 111-115-115-119-119-123 stitches (make sure to increase with off white on this row).
Arrow-2: Increase 14-16-16-18-18-20 stitches evenly on row = 125-131-131-137-137-143 stitches (there is now room for 19-20-20-21-21-22 repeats of A.1A of 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 22-24-26-28-34-36 stitches evenly on row = 147-155-157-165-171-179 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 20-24-26-26-28-28 stitches evenly on row = 167-179-183-191-199-207 stitches (there is now room for 39-42-43-45-47-49 repeats of A.1A of 4 stitches).
Arrow-5: Increase 20-22-24-24-28-28 stitches evenly on row = 187-201-207-215-227-235 stitches.
Arrow-6: Increase 16-18-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly on row = 203-219-227-235-251-259 stitches (there is now room for 48-52-54-56-60-62 repeats of A.1A of 4 stitches).
Arrow-7: Increase 10-10-10-12-18-22 stitches evenly on row = 213-229-237-247-269-281 stitches.
Arrow-8: Increase 8-4-8-10-0-0 stitches evenly on row = 221-233-245-257-269-281 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed, work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.2B (= 7 stitches), work A.2A until there are 5 stitches left on the row (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repeats of 12 stitches – NOTE: When working from the wrong side, the diagrams are read from left to right), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When A.2 has been completed, the piece measures approx. 16-16-16-17-20-20 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. Work 0-0-1-2-0-0 cm stocking stitch with light grey and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. The piece now measures approx. 16-16-17-19-20-20 cm.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side with light grey: Knit 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches (= front piece), place the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches (= back piece), place the next 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 147-155-163-175-183-191 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 39-41-43-46-48-50 stitches in from each side (= 69-73-77-83-87-91 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used a little later when increasing in the sides.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with light grey and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side (the first row is purled from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side).
When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2½-3-3½-3½-4-4½ cm a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in each side = 167-175-183-199-207-215 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 16-20-23-25-28-32 cm from the division, or to desired length. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 37-41-45-49-53-53 stitches evenly on row = 204-216-228-248-260-268 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm. Then cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl; make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The jacket measures approx. 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 49-51-53-57-59-61 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve and allow this marker thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used a little later when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round by the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with light grey. When the piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-3½-3½-4-4 cm a total of 7-7-7-8-8-9 times = 35-37-39-41-43-43 stitches. When the sleeve measures 18-22-26-30-34-38 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 1-3-1-3-1-5 stitches evenly on round = 36-40-40-44-44-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl; make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight. The sleeve measures approx. 22-26-30-34-38-42 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

Diagram explanations

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