Peaceful Bay Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with raglan, cover, I-cord, Fisherman's rib and belt. Size XS – XXXL.

DROPS 271-18
DROPS design: Pattern ai-566
Yarn group C + A or D
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350- 350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour 03, Pearl Grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-175-175-200-225 g colour 44, Moonlight

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 5.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
REMEMBER: Needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger sized needles or if you get too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller sized needles.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Purl 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 2.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and purl 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Knit 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row from wrong side work yarn overs as explained below:
BEFORE MARKER (= twist yarn over towards the left):
Purl yarn over in stitch loop behind the needle - to avoid holes.
AFTER MARKER (= twist yarn over towards the right):
Move yarn over from left needle to right needle purlwise, slip yarn over back on left needle by inserting left needle from behind in yarn over (yarn over is now twisted). Purl yarn over in stitch loop that is in front the needle - to avoid holes.

COVER:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, increase inside 4 stitches in each side of piece (i.e. inside 3 stitches band and 1 stitch stocking stitch). On next row from wrong side work yarn overs as explained below:
AT BEGINNING OF ROW (= twist yarn over towards the right):
Move yarn over from left needle to right needle purlwise, slip yarn over back on left needle by inserting left needle from behind in yarn over (yarn over is now twisted). Purl yarn over in stitch loop that is in front the needle - to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
AT THE END OF ROW (= twist yarn over towards the left):
Purl yarn over in stitch loop behind the needle - to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

SLEEVE TIP:
When picking up stitches mid under sleeve, there will be a small hole in the transition between stitches on body and sleeves. The holes can be closed by picking up the strand between two stitches - work this strand twisted together with the first stitch between body and sleeve to close the hole.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

FISHERMAN'S RIB (applies to belt):
ROW 1 (= right side):
Knit 1, * purl 1, knit 1 in stitch below next stitch *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 and knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side):
Purl 1, * knit 1 in stitch below next stitch, purl 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain, knit 1 in stitch below and purl 1.
Work ROW 1 and 2 until finished measurements.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
First work two bands back and forth on needle. Then cast on stitches between bands for yoke.
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down with increases for raglan and cover.
When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body downwards back and forth on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Finish by working a belt.
Sew bands from each front piece together, seam = mid back, then fasten band to stitches at the back of the neck.
If 0 stitches are given for the chosen size, it means that you skip the information and jump to next information.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
Cast on 3 stitches on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm with 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD back and forth – read explanation above.
Work until band measures approx. 14-15-15-15-16-16-16 cm– work last row from wrong side. Cut the yarn and leave stitches on a thread.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
Cast on 3 stitches on double pointed needle size 5.5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD back and forth – read explanation above.

Work until band measures approx. 14-15-15-15-16-16-16 cm– work last row from wrong side. Then cast on stitches for yoke between bands on next row from right side as follows:
Use circular needle size 5.5 mm and work left band with I-cord as before (= 3 stitches band), cast on 50-52-52-54-56-56-56 new stitches on needle, then work right band with I-cord as before (= 3 stitches band) = 56-58-58-60-62-62-62 stitches.
Purl 1 row from wrong side with 3 stitches band as before in each side. Insert 1 marker in piece in the middle of row (= mid back), then measure piece from here.

Insert 4 markers in piece without working the stitches, insert markers in a stitch, these stitches are called raglan stitches and increase is done for raglan on each side of raglan stitches.
Count 4 stitches (= left front piece), insert 1st marker in next stitch,
count 12 stitches (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker in next stitch,
count 20-22-22-24-26-26-26 stitches (= back piece), insert 3rd marker in next stitch,
count 12 stitches (= sleeve), insert 4th marker in next stitch. 4 stitches remain on row for right front piece.

Now work stocking stitch back and forth with 3 stitches band as before in each side while at the same time increasing for RAGLAN on each side of raglan stitches every other row. AT THE SAME TIME increase for COVER inside 4 stitches in each side 9-10-10-11-12-12-12 times in total every 4th row - read explanation above on how to increase. Remember to follow the knitting tension!

Work and increase for raglan 16-18-20-21-23-24-25 times in total (= 32-36-40-42-46-48-50 rows worked) - AT THE SAME TIME increase for COVER inside 4 stitches in each side every 4th row (NOTE: First increase for cover is done when increasing for raglan for the 2nd time).

Increases are no longer done on sleeves. Increase for front pieces and back piece every other row as before while at the same time continuing to increase for cover. Increase for front pieces/back piece 4-3-3-3-2-3-4 times (= 8-6-6-6-4-6-8 rows worked).
20-21-23-24-25-27-29 increases have been done on front pieces/back piece, 16-18-20-21-23-24-25 increases have been done on sleeves and 9-10-10-11-12-12-12 increases have been done for cover = 218-234-250-262-278-290-302 stitches on needle.

All increases for raglan and cover are now done, continue without increases until piece measures 21-22-24-25-26-28-31 cm from marker mid back. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
When dividing piece for body and sleeves the raglan stitches will be placed somewhat in on front piece/back piece in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL (in sizes XS, S, M and L divide the piece at the raglan stitches), i.e. AT THE SAME TIME as next row is worked , divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 3 stitches band as before, work 31-33-35-37-40-43-46 stitches in stocking stitch (= front piece), slip the next 44-48-52-54-56-56-56 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 62-66-70-74-80-86-92 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), slip the next 44-48-52-54-56-56-56 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 new stitches on needle (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 31-33-35-37-40-43-46 stitches in stocking stitch, finish with 3 stitches band as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 142-154-166-178-194-210-226 stitches.
Work stocking stitch and bands as before until piece measures 52-54-56-58-59-61-63 cm from marker mid back.
On next row from right side begin rib, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work band as before, work A.1 (= rib with fisherman's rib stitches) until 3 stitches remain (i.e. finish with first stitch in A.1) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 1 stitch in the middle of row, work band as before = 143-155-167-177-195-211-227 stitches.
When rib measures 4-4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make a yarn over after every 4th stitch and cast off yarn overs as usual. Jacket measures 56-58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from marker mid back and approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip 44-48-52-54-56-56-56 sleeve stitches from one thread on to needle size 5.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 stitches cast on under sleeve - read SLEEVE TIP = 50-56-62-66-70-72-74 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6-8-10-12-14-16-18 new stitches under sleeve - round begins at the marker thread.
Work in stocking stitch in the round on needle - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 1 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 0-10-10-5-5-4-4 cm 0-2-4-6-7-7-7 times in total = 50-52-54-54-56-58-60 stitches on needle.
Work until sleeve measures 41-40-39-39-37-36-34 cm from division.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work A.1 (= rib with fisherman's rib stitches).
When rib measures 4-4-4-4-5-5-5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make a yarn over after every 4th stitch and cast off yarn overs as usual. Sleeve measures approx. 45-44-43-43-42-41-39 cm from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew bands from each front piece together, seam = mid back, then fasten band to stitches at the back of the neck.

BELT:
Use double pointed needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands), cast on 9-9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches and work FISHERMAN'S RIB – read explanation above. Work until belt measures approx. 160-170-180-190-200-210-220 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Tie the belt around the waist, thread the belt through a few stitches in each side of body.

Diagram explanations

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