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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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INCREASE TIP-1:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from RIGHT SIDE:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up the strand from the front and knit through the stitch-loop that lies on the back of the needle.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT- from RIGHT SIDE:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up the strand from the back and knit through the stitch-loop that lies on the front of the needle.
INCREASE TIP-2:
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT- from WRONG SIDE:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up the strand from the back and purl through the stitch-loop that lies on the front of the needle.
INCREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS LEFT – from WRONG SIDE:
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up the strand from the front and purl through the stitch-loop that lies on the back of the needle.
GARTER STITCH:
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-3 (for sides of body):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (2 increased stitches). On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
SLEEVE TIP:
When knitting up stitches under the sleeve, you can get a small hole in the transition between stitches on the body and sleeve. This hole can be closed by picking up the strand between 2 stitches and working this strand twisted together with the first stitch between body and sleeve.
DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).
I-CORD CAST OFF:
After the last row/round cast off as follows:
START (right side):
Cast 2 stitches onto the right needle. Slip these 2 stitches onto the left needle, so the strand is 2 stitches in on the needle (the strand tightens when working to form a small tube).
ROW 1 (right side):
Knit 1, knit 2 twisted together, slip the 2 stitches on the right needle onto the left needle, do not turn.
Repeat ROW 1 until there are 2 stitches left. Slip these 2 stitches back onto the left needle. Cast off.
Sew a small stitch, joining the beginning and the end of the I-cord (when working in the round).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary. Work according to points 1 – 5.
1. BACK PIECE:
Cast on stitches for the back of the neck. Work the back piece back and forth, increasing stitches on each side until the shoulder stitch count has been achieved. The back piece has slightly diagonal shoulder.
2. FRONT PIECES:
Start by working the band with garter stitch and I-cord, which is sewn to the neckline to finish. Then knit up stitches along one back shoulder, working downwards and increasing for the neckline. Repeat on the other shoulder.
3. YOKE:
Join the front and back pieces, working first 1 front piece, knitting up stitches for the sleeve along the side of the front piece, working the back piece, knitting up stitches for the sleeve along the side of the second front piece, then working this front piece. The yoke is continued back and forth from mid-front, across all stitches.
4. INCREASE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
While working the yoke, you increase stitches first for the sleeves, then for the body and sleeves. The increases for the V-neck continue.
5. BODY AND SLEEVES:
When all the increases are finished and the yoke is the correct length, it is divided for the body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth while the sleeves wait. Then the sleeves are worked in the round, top down.
BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Cast on 30-32-32-34-34-34-38 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Merino Extra Fine or DROPS Lima.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Purl.
ROW 2 (right side): Read INCREASE TIP-1. Knit 3, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 3 stitches left on the row, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 3.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Read INCREASE TIP-2. Purl 3, increase 1 stitch towards the right, purl until there are 3 stitches left on the row, increase 1 stitch towards the left, purl 3.
AFTER ROW 3:
Work ROWS 2 and 3 a total of 12-12-12-12-13-13-13 times (24-24-24-24-26-26-26 rows worked). After the last increase there are 78-80-80-82-86-86-90 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder.
RIGHT BAND:
Cast on 18 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm:
ROW 1 (right side): Work 15 GARTER STITCHES – see explanation above, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, work 15 garter stitches.
ROW 3 (right side): Work 15 garter stitches, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, work 8 garter stitches.
ROW 5 (right side): Work 8 garter stitches, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1.
Repeat ROWS 2 to 5 until the band measures 7-8-8-8-8-8-9 cm along the shortest edge (= approx. ½ the width of the neck on back piece), finishing after a row from the wrong side. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.
Now work the right front piece together with this band as follows.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Find the right back shoulder as follows: Lay the back piece flat, right side up, with the stitch holder/thread towards you; right-hand side of piece = right shoulder.
Start from the right side by the armhole on the right back shoulder and knit up 1 stitch in each row worked, inside the outermost stitch as far as the neck (= 24-24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches), then work across the band (15 garter stitches and 3 stitches I-cord, i.e., not a short row) = 42-42-42-42-44-44-44 stitches.
Insert 1 marker by the neck. All measurements on the front piece are taken from this marker.
Work stocking stitch and the band stitches as before (no more short rows across the band).
You now decrease the band-stitches and increase for the V-neck inside the band + 2 stitches but before the decreases/increases are finished, the piece is laid aside and the left front piece is worked. Read the next 3 sections before continuing so you know how the piece is worked.
DECREASES ON BAND:
When the piece measures 5 cm from the marker, start to decrease the band by knitting together the first 2 garter stitches (seen from the right side). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 10 times = 8 band-stitches left: 5 garter stitches and 3 stitches I-cord).
INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
When the piece measures 7-7-8-8-8-8-8 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the band, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2 and work the band as before.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before, purl to end of row.
Increase for the V-neck every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 12-12-12-12-12-12-14 times, then every 4th row 3-4-4-5-5-5-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 11-12-12-12-14-14-15 cm lay it to one side, finishing after a row from the wrong side.
Cut the strand, place the stitches on a stitch holder and work the left band and front piece.
LEFT BAND:
Cast on 18 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm:
ROW 1 (right side): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, work 15 garter stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work 15 garter stitches, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 3 (right side): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, work 8 garter stitches.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work 8 garter stitches, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the strand in front, knit 1.
Repeat ROWS 1 to 4 until the band measures 7-8-8-8-8-8-9 cm along the shortest edge (= approx. ½ the width of the neck on back piece), finishing after a row from the wrong side.
Now work the left front piece together with this band.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work the band-stitches as before, then continue from the right side by the neck on the left back shoulder and knit up 1 stitch in each row worked, inside the outermost stitch as far as the armhole (= 24-24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches) = 42-42-42-42-44-44-44 stitches.
Insert 1 marker by the neck. All measurements on the front piece are taken from this marker.
Work stocking stitch and the band stitches as before (15 garter stitches and 3 stitches I-cord), there are no more short rows across the band.
You now decrease the band-stitches and increase for the V-neck inside the band + 2 stitches but before the decreases/increases are finished, the front pieces and the back piece are worked together, and stitches for sleeves are picked up. Read the next 3 sections before continuing so you know how the piece is worked.
DECREASE THE BAND:
When the piece measures 5 cm from the marker, start to decrease the band by knitting together the last 2 garter stitches (seen from the right side). Decrease like this every 1½ cm a total of 10 times = 8 band-stitches left (= 3 stitches I-cord and 5 garter stitches).
INCREASE FOR V-NECK:
When the piece measures 7-7-8-8-8-8-8 cm, increase for the neckline as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the band as before + 2 knitted stitches, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to end of row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl and work the band.
Increase for the V-neck every 2nd row (every row from the right side) a total of 12-12-12-12-12-12-14 times, then every 4th row 3-4-4-5-5-5-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 11-12-12-12-14-14-15 cm, the front and back pieces are placed on the same needle and stitches are knitted up for the sleeves as follows; remember to continue the decreases across the bands and the increases for the neck.
YOKE:
ROW 1 (right side): Start from the right side on the left front piece. Work the band as before, then knit until there is 1 stitch left on the front piece, insert 1 marker, knit the last stitch on the front piece (belongs to the sleeve), knit up 22-24-24-24-30-30-32 stitches along the side of the left front piece, inside the outermost stitch, knit the first stitch on the back piece (belongs to the sleeve), insert 1 marker, knit until there is 1 stitch left on the back piece, insert 1 marker, knit the last stitch on the back piece (belongs to the sleeve), knit up 22-24-24-24-30-30-32 stitches along the side of the right front piece, inside the outermost stitch, knit the first stitch on the right front piece (belongs to the sleeve), insert 1 marker, knit across the right front piece and work the band as before.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl, with the bands as before.
ROW 3 (right side): Work the band, knit to the first marker, move the marker onto the right needle, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to the next marker, increase 1 stitch towards the right, move the marker onto the right needle, knit to the next marker, move the marker onto the right needle, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to the next marker, increase 1 stitch towards the right, move the marker onto the right needle, work to end of row as before.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Purl, with the bands as before.
AFTER ROW 4:
Work ROWS 3 and 4 until you have increased 16-16-15-14-10-6-2 times in height on the sleeves (32-32-30-28-20-12-4 rows worked): 56-58-56-54-52-44-38 stitches on each sleeve and 76-78-78-80-84-84-88 stitches on the back piece.
Now increase on both the body and sleeves, increase 2 stitches inside the markers on the body so there are 2 stitches between the increases on the sleeves and on the body:
ROW 1 (right side): Work as before until there are 2 stitches left before the first marker, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2, move the marker onto the right needle, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to the next marker (= sleeve), increase 1 stitch towards the right, move the marker onto the right needle, knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit until there are 2 stitches left before the next marker, increase 1 stitch towards the right, knit 2, move the marker onto the right needle, increase 1 stitch towards the left, knit to the next marker (= sleeve), increase 1 stitch towards the right, move the marker onto the right needle, knit 2, increase 1 stitch towards the left, work to end of row as before (8 increased stitches; 1 increased stitch on each side of 2 knitted stitches in each transition between the body and sleeves).
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl, with the bands as before.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 until you have increased 3-6-10-12-14-19-23 times in height (6-12-20-24-28-38-46 rows worked). A total of 19-22-25-26-24-25-25 increases in height on the sleeves and 3-6-10-12-14-19-23 increases in height on the front and back pieces: 62-70-76-78-80-82-84 stitches on each sleeve, 82-90-98-104-112-122-134 stitches on the back piece and 49-53-57-60-64-69-75 stitches on each front piece. The decreases for the bands and increases for the V-neck are finished.
The sleeve measures approx. 14-16-18-19-17-18-18 cm; when the jacket is folded double at the shoulder, the piece measures approx. 19-22-24-25-25-25-26 cm from outermost on the shoulder and down the armhole. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct measurement. Now divide for the body and sleeves.
DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Work 49-53-57-60-64-69-75 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 62-70-76-78-80-82-84 stitches on a stitch holder/thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches (mid-under the sleeve), work 82-90-98-104-112-122-134 stitches (back piece), place the next 62-70-76-78-80-82-84 stitches on a stitch holder/thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-12-14-16 stitches (mid-under the sleeve), work the last 49-53-57-60-64-69-75 stitches as before (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.
BODY:
= 192-208-228-244-264-288-316 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-10-12-14-16 cast-on stitches under each sleeve and allow these threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing/increasing in each side of the body.
Work stocking stitch back and forth with the bands as before.
When the body measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker-threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (4 increased stitches). Increase like this every 3 cm a total of 6 times = 216-232-252-268-288-312-340 stitches. Continue stocking stitch and the bands until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the cast-on edge mid-back. Work I-CORD CAST-OFF – read explanation above.
The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from the shoulder.
SLEEVES:
Place the 62-70-76-78-80-82-84 sleeve-stitches from one thread/stitch holder onto circular needle size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-10-12-14-16 cast-on stitches under the sleeve – read SLEEVE TIP = 68-76-84-88-92-96-100 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-10-12-14-16 new stitches under the sleeve. The round starts by the marker-thread.
Work stocking stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME, on round 1, decrease mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 4-4-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm, 4-8-10-12-12-14-14 times = 60-60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 40-39-38-38-40-40-40 cm from the division.
Work I-CORD CAST-OFF.
BELT:
Use circular needle size 4 mm. Cast on 5 stitches. Knit 1 row. Then work a tube as follows: * Push the 5 stitches to the right-hand end of the needle without turning, tighten the strand, knit all stitches *, work from *-* until the belt measures 170-200 cm. The belt is tied around the waist.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bands to the neckline and sew the 2 bands together mid-back.
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