Ocean Veil Socks

Knitted socks in 2 strands DROPS Nord. The piece is worked top down with rib and diamond heel. Sizes 35 – 43.

DROPS 261-68
DROPS Design: Pattern no-109
Yarn group A + A
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SIZES:
Shoe-size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot-length: 22 - 24 - 26 cm
When the sock with diamond heel is worn, the heel will stretch a little, so the foot is worked 2-2-2½ cm shorter.
Leg-length to heel: 26 - 28 - 30 cm

YARN:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-150 g colour 01, Off White
100-100-150 g colour 08, Fog

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 27 rows in height, with 2 strands and stocking stitch on needle size 3.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Remember, the needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get to few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP:
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, from leg to toe.
To make room for the heel, stitches are increased until the heel width and length are achieved, then stitches are decreased while working towards the toe.
The increases and decreases form a diamond shaped heel.

LEG:
Cast on 60-65-70 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each colour (2 strands). Knit 1 round.
Work rib in the round (purl 3, knit 2). When the leg measures 13-14-15 cm, decrease all purl-3 to purl-2 = 48-52-56 stitches. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. Continue the new rib (purl 2, knit 2) until the leg measures 26-28-30 cm.
Now work the heel and foot.

HEEL AND FOOT:
You now increase for the heel on each side of 10-18-18 stitches under the foot.
The heel stitches are worked in stocking stitch and the rib is continued across the other stitches. Insert 1 marker between the first 2 purled stitches on the round and allow it to follow your work onwards (= mid-under foot).

INCREASE 1:
Work until there are 5-9-9 stitches left before the marker, increase 1 stitch by using the left needle to pick up the yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up the yarn from the front and knit in the stitch loop that is on the back of the needle, knit 10-18-18 (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), use the left needle to pick up the yarn between 2 stitches from round below, pick up the yarn from the back and knit in the stitch loop that is on the front of the needle (2 increased stitches). Work to the marker at the end of the round (mid-under foot).

Next round: Work rib and stocking stitch until there are 6-10-10 stitches left before the marker. Increase as described below.

INCREASE 2:
Use the left needle to pick up the yarn between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up the yarn from the front and knit in the stitch loop that is on the back of the needle, knit 12-20-20 (the marker is in the middle of these stitches), use the left needle to pick up the yarn between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up the yarn from the back and knit in the stitch loop that is on the front of the needle (2 increased stitches). Work to marker at end of round.

FURTHER INCREASES:
Increase every 2nd round as described above a total of 6-6-6 times, with 2 more knitted stitches mid-under the foot each time you increase = 60-64-68 stitches on the round and 26-34-34 knitted stitches mid-under the foot (= heel-stitches), including 2 knitted stitches on each side of the rib.

Work 1 round of rib and stocking stitch, finishing mid-under the foot. Insert 1 measuring-marker in the middle of the heel-stitches: It is important that this marker stays on this round as it is used to measure the foot-length.

DECREASE 1:
You now decrease for the heel.
Next round: Work stocking stitch and rib until there are 12-16-16 stitches left before the marker, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 20-28-28 (marker sits in the middle of these stitches), knit 2 together (2 decreased stitches). Work to marker at end of round.

Next round: Work stocking stitch and rib, finishing 11-15-15 stitches before the marker. Decrease as described below.

DECREASE 2:
Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 18-26-26 (marker sits in the middle of these stitches), knit 2 together. Work to marker at end of round.

FURTHER DECREASES:
Decrease every 2nd round as described above a total of 10-10-10 times, with 2 fewer knitted stitches mid-under the foot each time you decrease = 40-44-48 stitches. Continue stocking stitch across the 6-14-14 stitches under the foot and rib across the other stitches.

FOOT:
Work until the foot measures 16-17-18½ cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot.
There is 4-5-5 cm left to finished length. Try the sock on and work to desired length before decreasing for the toe as described below.

TOE:
Knit 2 rounds.
Insert 1 marker on each side of the sock, with 20-22-24 stitches both on top of and underneath the foot. Continue with stocking stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round decrease for the toe on each side of both markers – read DECREASE TIP (4 decreased stitches). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-5-5 times, then every round 3-3-4 times = 12-12-12 stitches. Cut the strand, thread it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.
The foot measures approx. 20-22-23½ cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot. NOTE! The sock is shorter than the foot-length but will stretch when used.

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