Knitted neck-warmer and hat in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up.
DROPS 242-22
DROPS Design: Pattern li-159
Yarn group B + A or C
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HAT:
SIZES:
M/L - L/XL
Fits head-size approx.: 54/56 - 58/60 cm
YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-100 g colour 3609, red
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-25 g colour 14, red
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 23 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
NECK-WARMER:
SIZES:
S/M - M/L - L/ XL
Shoulder-width approx.: 27-30-33 cm
Length without neck approx.: 26-28-30 cm
YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-200 g colour 3609, red
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-50 g colour 14, red
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm.
KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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DECREASE TIP (for hat):
Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker sits between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. Decrease like this at each marker.
GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The hat is worked in the round, bottom up. Change to double pointed needles when necessary as you decrease at the top.
HAT:
Cast on 108-116 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm, 1 strand DROPS Lima and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands). Purl 1 round. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 11 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work stocking stitch and, on the first round, decrease 18-20 stitches evenly spaced = 90-96 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch until the hat measures 22-23 cm (10-10 cm left to finished length). Insert 3 markers, with 30-32 stitches between each one.
Begin to decrease for the top of the hat - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round 12-13 times = 18-18 stitches.
Knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 9-9 stitches.
Cut the strand, thread it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures 32-34 cm from the cast-on edge.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold 7 cm of the rib up to the right side. The hat measures 25-27 cm with this fold-up.
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NECK-WARMER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front piece is worked back and forth, bottom up. Stitches are cast off for the neckline and each shoulder worked separately. Stitches are increased for the neckline, at the back, the shoulders are joined and the back piece finished back and forth, top down. The neck is worked to finish.
FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 55-59-63 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Lima and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (2 strands).
Purl 1 row, then work as follows from the right side:
3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (purl 1, knit 1) until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm, with the next row from the right side. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm.
Work the first 9 stitches as before, work stocking stitch over the next 37-41-45 stitches and decrease 10 stitches evenly over these stitches, work the last 9 stitches as before = 45-49-53 stitches. When the piece measures 6 cm increase as follows on each row from the right side:
Work the first 10 stitches as before, make 1 yarn over, work until there are 10 stitches left, make 1 yarn over and work to the end of the row.
Work back as before, purling the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Repeat this increase (inside the 10 outermost stitches on each side) every 2½ cm a total of 4-4-5 times on each side = 53-57-63 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work until the piece measures 19-20-21 cm. Now work the neckline from the right side as follows:
Work the first 21-22-24 stitches as before, then place these stitches on a stitch holder (left shoulder), cast off the next 11-13-15 stitches and work to the end of the row. The shoulders are continued separately.
RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 21-22-24 stitches. Work back from the wrong side.
Cast off for the neckline at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 15-16-18 stitches. Work until the piece measures 26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge. Insert a marker in the last row (top of shoulder).
Work for a further 3-4-5 cm from the marker, with the next row from the wrong side. Cast on stitches at the end of each row from the wrong side as follows: 1 stitch 2 times and 2 stitches 2 times = 21-22-24 stitches. The piece measures 7-8-9 cm from the marker on the shoulder. Cut the strand and place the stitches on a stitch holder.
LEFT SHOULDER:
Place the 21-22-24 stitches from the stitch holder back on the needle. Start from the wrong side and cast off for the neckline at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: 2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2 times = 15-16-18 stitches. Work until the piece measures 26-28-30 cm from the cast-on edge. Insert a marker in the last row (top of shoulder).
Work for a further 3-4-5 cm from the marker, with the next row from the right side. Cast on stitches at the end of each row from the right side as follows: 1 stitch 2 times and 2 stitches 2 times, then cast on 11-13-15 stitches at the end of the next row from the right side = 32-35-39 stitches. The piece measures approx. 7-8-9 cm from the marker on the shoulder.
Join the 2 shoulders by placing the stitches from the right shoulder back on the needle and working them from the right side = 53-57-63 stitches.
BACK PIECE:
Continue the pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 12½-14-14 cm from the marker on the shoulder, decrease on each side as follows from the right side:
Work the first 10 stitches as before, knit 2 together, work until there are 12 stitches left, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work the last 10 stitches as before.
Repeat this decrease (inside the 10 outermost stitches on each side) every 2½ cm a total of 4-4-5 times on each side = 45-49-53 stitches. Work until the piece measures 22-24-26 cm from the marker on the shoulder – matching the length to the front piece (without the rib). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work 1 row and increase 10 stitches evenly over the stitches between the ribbing on each side = 55-59-63 stitches.
Work as follows from the right side:
3 edge stitches in garter stitch, rib (purl 1, knit 1) until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 and 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 4 cm, with the next row from the right side. The piece measures approx. 26-28-30 cm from the marker on the shoulder. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Start from the right side by the marker and knit up 96-102-106 stitches (the stitch count must be divisible by 2). Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 24 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
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