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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 102 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 5) = 20.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 20th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of stitch with marker (= a total of 8 stitches increased on row): Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Work bands at the end.
YOKE:
Cast on 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches on circular needle size 9 mm with DROPS Andes. Purl 1 row from wrong side.
Insert a marker after 18-19-19-20-20-21 stitches (= mid back on back piece), measure yoke from this marker!
Now insert 4 markers in the piece without working the stitches. Insert markers in a stitch between body and sleeves:
Skip the 2 first stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 8 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 12-14-14-16-16-18 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch, skip the next 8 stitches, insert a marker in next stitch. 2 stitches remain on round after last marker.
Now work in stocking stitch back and forth with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH in each side – read explanation above, at the same time on first row begin increase for raglan and on third row begin increase for V-neck – increase as explained below.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
RAGLAN:
On first row increase for RAGLAN – read explanation above. Increase like this every other row 15-15-17-18-19-21 times in total.
V-NECK:
On third row begin increase for V-neck.
Increase as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work until 2 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Increase like this every 4th row 5-6-6-7-7-8 times in total.
When all increases for raglan and V-neck are done, there are 166-170-186-198-206-226 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 23-23-25-27-29-31 cm from marker mid back.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 22-23-25-27-28-31 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 42-44-48-52-54-60 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last 22-23-25-27-28-31 stitches.
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 94-102-110-118-126-138 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast-on in the side under the sleeves (= 2-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase later in the sides.
Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
When piece measures 5 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side - read INCREASE TIP-1. Repeat increase when piece measures 15 cm = 102-110-118-126-134-146 stitches. Work until piece measures 32-34-34-34-34-34 cm from division.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 5-5-7-7-9-9 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 107-115-125-133-143-155 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm. Work rib follows (begin from wrong side): 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (purl 1/knit 1) until 2 stitches remain, purl 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until rib measures 7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch, read CAST-OFF TIP.
Jacket measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm from shoulder and down.
SLEEVES:
Slip the 40-40-44-46-48-52 stitches from stitch holder in one side on a short circular needle/double needles size 9 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 4-6-6-6-8-8 new stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 44-46-50-52-56-60 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve (= 2-3-3-3-4-4 new stitches on each side of marker thread). Move the marker thread upwards when working - marker threads should be used for decrease mid under sleeve.
Continue in the round in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 2 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other row 6-6-8-8-10-11 times in total, then every 4th row 1 time in total in all sizes = 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 35-35-34-32-31-29 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 4 cm.
Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures 39-39-38-36-35-33 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.
RIGHT BAND:
Begin from right side at the bottom on right front piece with circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Andes. Pick up 93-109 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along right front piece and up to mid back on back piece (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1 stitch).
Purl 1 row from wrong side – increase with yarn over right were first decrease for V-neck begun by working as follows: * Purl 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times (= 2 stitches increased) – on next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Now work rib as follows from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this until band measures 1½-2 cm. Now decrease for
5 buttonholes evenly in all sizes. Place top buttonholes approx. 1 cm below were decrease for V-neck began, and bottom buttonhole approx. 7 cm from bottom edge.
1 buttonhole = make 1 yarn over and work 2 stitch together.
Continue with rib until band measures approx. 4 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
LEFT BAND:
Begin from right side mid back of neck with circular needle size 7 mm and DROPS Andes. Pick up 93-109 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along edge and down along left front piece (number of stitches must be divisible by 2 + 1 stitch).
Purl 1 row from wrong side – increase with yarn over right were first decrease for V-neck begun by working as follows: * Purl 1, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times (= 2 stitches increased) – on next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Now work rib as follows from right side:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this until band measures approx. 4 cm - adjust length according to right band. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band. Sew band together mid back.
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