DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 144.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Quilting Bee Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca or DROPS Flora. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, relief-pattern and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 248-25

#quiltingbeecardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern z-1028
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g colour 9033, strawberry cream

Or use:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 30, desert rose

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 7 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 144.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.

BANDS WITH I-CORD:
START OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise, with yarn in front, knit 1, work 6 garter stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work the band as follows: Work until there are 8 stitches left on the row, work 6 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1 and A.2). The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for round yoke):
Do not increase over the outermost 12 stitches on each side.
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g., 151 stitches), minus the stitches you don’t increase over (i.e., 24 stitches), then divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g., 34) = 3.7.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side, when there are 5 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. The other 6 buttonholes are then worked with approx. 6½-7-7-7½-8-8 cm between each one.
The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between stocking stitch and rib.



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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The pattern uses both short and long circular needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle, while the sleeves wait. The sleeves are then worked in the round, top down.
The neck is folded double to the wrong side and sewn down.

NECK:
Cast on 137-143-151-155-159-167 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm (casting on with a larger needle makes the cast-on edge elastic). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm. Now cast on 7 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 151-157-161-169-173-181 stitches. Continue the rib but with the outermost 8 stitches on each side worked according to BANDS WITH I-CORD – read description above. Work until the neck measures 9 cm – finishing after a row from the wrong side The neck is later folded double to approx. 4 cm.
Insert 1 marker inside the band; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side (bands worked as before) and increase 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above = 185-193-201-207-213-223 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 8 band stitches on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the yoke measures 3-4-5-5-5-6 cm from the marker, increase 38-42-46-46-52-54 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 223-235-247-253-265-277 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 8 band stitches on each side, until the yoke measures 4-5-6-7-7-8 cm from the marker.
Now work PATTERN – read description above, i.e., work the first row from the right side as follows: 8 band stitches as before, work A.1 until there are 11 stitches left, work A.2 and 8 band stitches as before. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1, increase evenly as follows (do not increase over the bands):
Arrow-1: Increase 18-18-18-24-24-30 stitches evenly spaced = 241-253-265-277-289-307 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 18-26-24-22-25-32 stitches evenly spaced = 259-279-289-299-314-339 stitches.
Arrow-3: Increase 18-22-24-32-35-34 stitches evenly spaced = 277-301-313-331-349-373 stitches.
Arrow-4: Increase 23-23-29-35-35-35 stitches evenly spaced = 300-324-342-366-384-408 stitches.
When A.1 and A.2 are finished there are 348-376-397-425-446-474 stitches.

Now work as follows: 8 band stitches as before, work A.3 until there are 11 stitches left and increase 14-14-21-28-35-35 stitches evenly spaced (arrow-5), work A.4 and finish with 8 band stitches as before = 362-390-418-453-481-509 stitches.
Continue the pattern and increase evenly on each row marked with an arrow in A.3 – remember INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the 12 outermost stitches on each side).
Arrow-6: Increase 9-13-17-22-26-30 stitches evenly spaced = 371-403-435-475-507-539 stitches.
Arrow-7: Increase 6-10-10-14-18-18 stitches evenly spaced – make sure to space the increases so the lace pattern is not disrupted = 377-413-445-489-525-557 stitches.
When A.3 and A.4 are finished, the yoke measures approx. 19-20-21-22-24-25 cm from the marker.
Continue with stocking stitch and 8 band stitches on each side until the yoke measures 20-21-22-23-25-27 cm from the marker.

Now divide for the body and sleeves: Work the first 62-68-72-78-85-92 stitches (front piece), place the next 72-78-86-96-100-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 (in side under sleeve), work 109-121-129-141-155-169 stocking stitches (back piece), place the next 72-78-86-96-100-102 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 (in side under sleeve), work the last 62-68-72-78-85-92 stitches as before (front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 253-277-297-321-353-385 stitches. Continue back and forth, with stocking stitch and 8 band stitches on each side, until the body measures 19-20-20-21-21-21 cm from the division.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 60-62-66-74-82-88 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 313-339-363-395-435-473 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm.
Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 8 band stitches, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 1 and 8 band stitches. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off. The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 72-78-86-96-100-102 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 82-88-98-108-114-118 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-4th-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd round a total of 8-10-14-18-19-20 times = 66-68-70-72-76-78 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 42-41-41-41-40-38 cm from the division (There is 4 cm left; try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib). Knit 1 round and increase 14-16-16-18-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 80-84-86-90-94-96 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 46-45-45-45-44-42 cm from the division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the rib at the top of the neck to the inside and sew down to give a double neck. To avoid the neck being tight, and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.
Sew together the openings mid-front of neck with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 28.05.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction in increases at arrow-2 and arrow-3 on yoke.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled on next row (wrong side) to leave a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on next row (wrong side) to avoid a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = knit 3, pass the first knitted stitch over the other 2, so it lies around them
symbols = no stitch because it has already been decreased of doesn’t exist; go straight to next symbol in diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 248-25

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Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Catherine wrote:

Les 18 augmentations on les tricotés en jersey? Merci pour votre réponse bonne journéeCatherine

30.10.2024 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, augmentez comme indiqué sous AUGMENTATIONS (empiècement arrondi) au début des explications, autrement dit, avec 1 jeté, au rang suivant, tricoter les jetés torse (pour éviter un trou) comme indiqué pour le rang suivant du diagramme - après les flèches à 1 à 4, on va tricoter les jetés torse à l'envers sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

30.10.2024 - 13:37

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour Madame, Sur le modèle il y a une maille qui n'existe pas il est écrit que cette maille a été diminuée auparavant ou elle n'existe pas. A aucun moment on nous précise de faire une diminution, au rang précédent la maille existe, j'ai une maille en trop . Je vous remercie pour votre réponse Catherine.

30.10.2024 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, à ce niveau / rang du diagramme, on répète le motif sur 5 mailles seulement et pas sur 6 mailles, dès le rang suivant chaque motif fera de nouveau 6 mailles grâce au jeté, mais sur ce rang précisément, répétez les 5 mailles du diagramme comme indiqué, soit 48-52-54-56-59-64 fois A.1 (+ 8 m de bordure devant de chaque côté et 3 m de A.2) sur les 259-279-289-299-314-339 mailles. Bon tricot!

30.10.2024 - 08:55

country flag Roget wrote:

Bonjour Empiècement : après la 2eme vague d'augmentations, il est dit: " tricotez 8 cm à partir du marqueur ", s agit il du marqueur mis avant la 1ère vague d augmentations ? Merci de votre aide,

10.09.2024 - 12:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Roget, vous devez mesurer ces 8 cm à partir du marqueur que vous avez mis après le col, juste après les mailles de bordure du devant. Bon tricot!

11.09.2024 - 07:44

country flag Roget wrote:

Merci de votre gentillesse et de votre efficacité. Thank you for your help and efficience. Françoise ROGET

05.09.2024 - 10:45

country flag Françoise Roget wrote:

Bonjour, Merci. Après le col, on doit prendre les aiguilles 3. Cela veut il dire que l on passe du 2,5 au 3 pour les bordures aussi? Cordialement

04.09.2024 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Roget, tout à fait, l'empiècement se tricote avec l'aiguille circulaire 3, y compris les mailles des bordures devant. Bon tricot!

05.09.2024 - 09:03

country flag Françoise Roget wrote:

Bonjour , pouvez vous me confirmer que tout le tricot e réalisé avec dex aiguilles 2.5 sauf le montage des mailles svp? Merci d avance Cordialement

31.08.2024 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Roget, pas du tout, on tricote le col avec les aiguilles 2,5 (après avoir monté les mailles en 3), puis on tricote l'empiècement et les manches (séparément avec l'aiguille circulaire / les aiguilles doubles pointes 3 et on tricote les côtes du bas du gilet et des manches avec les aiguilles 2,5. Pensez à bien vérifier votre tension et ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin. Bon tricot!

02.09.2024 - 07:57

country flag Sylvie Lachance wrote:

Pour la bordure Icord: 1. Est-ce que la maille endroit et les mailles en point mousse sont la même chose? 2- Comme c'est en aller-retour, est-ce que mes mailles endroit doivent être tricotées à l'envers quand je suis sur l'envers du tricot ? Je comprends que le point mousse, lui, sera toujours des mailles endroit. Merci!

21.06.2024 - 23:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lachance, la maille tricotée à l'endroit en début de rang sera glissée à l'envers en fin de rang; la maille tricotée à l'endroit en fin de rang sera glissée au début du rang, ainsi ces 2 mailles I-cord se font en plus des mailles point mousse - dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment tricoter 2 m I-cord de chaque côté (attention, ne faites pas les augmentations de la vidéo, elles ne s'appliquent pas ici). Bon tricot!

24.06.2024 - 07:59

country flag MURIEL wrote:

Bonjour Taille 1 Je ne comprends pas comment il peut y avoir 348 mailles à la fin de A1A2, alors qu'après la flèche 4 (dernière augmentation) il y en a 300??? Quand augmente-t-on ces 48 mailles? Merci de votre aide

13.05.2024 - 09:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Muriel, on va augmenter 1 maille dans chaque A.1 et 1 maille dans A.2, donc après la flèche 4 vous avez 300 mailles et vous tricotez 47 fois A.1 en largeur pour terminer par les 2 m de A.2; vous allez ainsi augmenter 47+1 = 48 mailles et ainsi obtenir les 300+48=348 mailles. Bon tricot!

13.05.2024 - 12:27

country flag Albina Vidal García wrote:

Inicio el proyecto con lana más gruesa y la talla S es grande. Con cuántos puntos debo iniciar el cuello para obtener una talla menos. Sí S son 136 p y M 143 p, una talla menos de S serían 129 p? Gracias por tu atención

14.04.2024 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Albina, no puedes hacer una regla de 3 directa; tienes que hacer tus propios cálculos con tus medidas deseadas y tu nueva tensión. Puedes leer la siguiente lección para más información: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=23

14.04.2024 - 23:24

country flag C Hristina wrote:

På diagram A1 skall man på v9 bara ha 5 maskor av de 6 man använt. Kan inte få antalet maskor att stämma med diagrammet på stl XL. 301 maskor, tag bort 16 kantmaskor, tag bort de 3 maskor som skall vara A2, då återstår 282 m. Kan inte fördela detta över 5 maskor som skall stickas. Hur skall jag tänka?

14.04.2024 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, Vi kan se hvad du mener og skal få design til at se på det. Hold øje her, så vil der blive lagt en opdatering ud - tak for info :)

16.04.2024 - 07:47